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2AZ-FE Removal?

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Old 03-10-2012, 02:41 AM
  #41  
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I just read what you said about the ECU, make sure the four or five connectors are plugged in, just so we can eliminate other factors.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:51 AM
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Post pic of grounds esp the trans ground

They all NEED to be clean and tight
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:02 AM
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^^^extremely important
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:43 AM
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so i got it up and running drove it around today for about 15 min, but i noticed i have an oil leak at the rear of the motor. i put more sealant on the back of the oil pan thinking it was the oil pan but it wasnt, i cant really see where its coming from:/ also have a tiny tranny oil leak again i dont know where its coming from.

any ideas?

heres the specs:

07 tC
-06 rebuilt motor
-balance shafts delete (oil passage plugged)
-brand new 08 oem pistons & rods
-arp head studs
-new headgasket
-new water pump
-new oil pump
-clevite main bearings
-08 oem cams

thats all i can think of off the top of my head. any info would be appreciated.
oh im using Eneos trans fluid btw
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:46 AM
  #45  
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get a flashlight
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:32 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by sebbyxtc
so i got it up and running drove it around today for about 15 min, but i noticed i have an oil leak at the rear of the motor. i put more sealant on the back of the oil pan thinking it was the oil pan but it wasnt, i cant really see where its coming from:/ also have a tiny tranny oil leak again i dont know where its coming from.

any ideas?

heres the specs:

07 tC
-06 rebuilt motor
-balance shafts delete (oil passage plugged)
-brand new 08 oem pistons & rods
-arp head studs
-new headgasket
-new water pump
-new oil pump
-clevite main bearings
-08 oem cams

thats all i can think of off the top of my head. any info would be appreciated.
oh im using Eneos trans fluid btw


Curious, how much was the rebuild for stock parts vs that of a built motor?
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:30 AM
  #47  
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PM me^ im a college student so i didnt have enough cash for forged internals or else it would of been fully built.

Anyways im on 100 miles with the new motor. I did the initial start up with non detergent 30w mineral oil drained it, changed filter. Popped off pan and i had metal flakes and a tiny tiny little metal shaving. Is it something i should be concerned about?

Anyways popped the pan back on, changed it to 5w-30 conventional oil and ive been on that for about 80 miles, gonna change the filter and oil again to the same 5w-30 For another 250ish miles am i doing this right?

Also how should i be driving it while the rings seat and the engine breaks in?

Ive been driving like a g-ma under 3k rpms and doing a lot of engine breaking, i just dont want to do it wrong ya know? If someone could give me some more info.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:25 AM
  #48  
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its broken in already doesnt matter how you drive.
keep with the oil changing intervals i have provided.
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Old 03-16-2012, 04:19 PM
  #49  
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Im only at 100miles though. Okay will do.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:55 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Curious, how much was the rebuild for stock parts vs that of a built motor?
Would have been about 800$ difference give or take, depending on which internals you went with. I can give you a precise price list of everything that went into the motor along with cost of machine work etc. if your curious.
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