whats q16? and what dyno was it?

 

q16 I pretty sure is race fuel

 

isnt Q16 better then c16?

 

Not sure but nothing google cant solve LOL

 

thats where i found out at lol. q16 is is rated around 120 octane lol and c16 117 octane i found on google.

 

[QUOTE=m6ar2cel6oTC;3296434]isnt Q16 better then c16?[/QUOT


Much better. It requires 3/5% more fuel over c16 but makes 5-8% more power !!!!

 

Q16 is more oxygenated.. provides for better/more consistent combustion.

 

my bad. one of my "friends" got on my account and tried to get me banned on like 3 forums

 

ok loser! take care of that.

 

google can help cure that also.....


watching for bike vid.... On a side note I have a friend with a vette in disbelief LOL

 

trd lsd will help with traction at all power levels. but you can still overwhelm the tires even when you're N/A. but when boosted, yeah, you can use all the help you can get.

 

Here is the dyno graphs guys, Notice one I get the tune and timing perfect and my new spring as it couldnt hold boost, it will make a NICE flat power curve that doesnt drop off as you can see.

the reason for the dip as you can see on teh spread sheet of the #'s at each RPM(we made 527.6 @ 5790 RPM then fell off some then went back up to 527.9 @ 6831.. But the tune is very good and very soft, it needs timing past 6800, and boost not to tumble because of the small spring.. I will install the big blue and red tom.

first graph is 23 psi,2nd is 18.7 psi. the dynomite is the same as a dyno dynamics in terms of power level reading. if this were dyno jet, expect to see 6-9 % more power.. for example a z06 only made 437 on this dyno.. they usually make around 465-470 on a dyno jet,

 

Why is there also a drop-off on the 18psi pull? It looks like your .63 A/R is choking up there. Shouldn't you be making power through to your 8200rpm redline? I'd definitely suggest a .82 A/R housing - assuming we're still talking about a T3 exhaust housing.. because i'm familar with .58 AR on a T4 footing.. but not on a T3.

 

X2 on what b_real said. Bigger back housing if your reving that high you gotta be at a 8200. I wonder what you top out at with 8200 redline lol

 

the .63 a/r is in fact not to small, by any means, The tune was for the old 61 journal bearing with .58 ar. The tune is now much different, and as you can recall I switched the turbo 1 night ago, I had to scale the map from a few logs, and it was much different. I didnt have time with work and other projects to tune it fully yet(working on that now). I added extra fuel all the way across from 6700 up, it was a much BIGGER increase at lower boost level (afr's were in the 10's past 6500-6600.. timing was 15.0 degrees all the way across with VVT control OFF. I have done some logging and tuning tonight, and maped my timing up a few degrees from 6500 up, and also got the AFR's very close to my 11.7 range on q16. I

as you can see, in the lower boost run the power fell off more, but at the end of the dyno it started to pull back up, I can show you the log, boost at the begining of the run@ 5500 RPM was 18.7 psi, and by 6500 dropped to 16 psi then by 7000 down to 14.3 psi. simple as that. the AEM tru boost works best with a larger Wastegate spring, its very inconsistant at lower boost settings, even on the 61mm, as far as the 1st graph the power didnt drop off any at all hardly, and the tune was very rich(not so much as the 18 psi run) and timing was still a flat 15.0 across the board on that engine load level of 23 psi from 4500-7600. if the exhaust housing was restrictive for my setup then it would fall off even worse with higher boost pressure. As you can see the power is not going to go up and then down and then back up without it being tune related, in this case which it was. Ill prove my point next week with 30 psi on the LITTLE SMALL(lol) .63 , I should have left my 1 bar spring in, I was able to hit 29.5 psi on the 61. I would have been able to hit at least 27 on the 67. but next week, I have a big blue (13 psi) and a small blue (8.7 psi) I am installing as we speak.

The guys that run .82's lets compare dyno #'s and then compare power under the curve.. you will NEVER need an .82 UNLESS you are striclty drag racing spooling with a 75-100 shot, and turning 8500, I ve done this for al long time and had alot of turbo cars. I m also a large distributor for comp turbo..

My .63 on the 2.4 is going to be good for my 8000 redline I am going to keep for now, It will make power almost right to redline after the tune is correct, It takes alot of good time to get them perfect.

BTW, I bumped my RPM down to 7600 on these runs as you can see as the tune was not corrected past these points to my liking, and I sure as HELL am not using O2 feedback for 23 psi lol

BTW she drives this car alot for a DD if its not raining or bad weather, pretty cool if you ask me. I have some nice vids and pics Ill post in a bit, the car has 19" HRE's

Hope this helps

 

glad to know that about the .63

 

did i miss something or is there still no vid of racing the r1. not saying you didnt, im just very interested to see the vid!

 

Like I said earlier, we were going to race on sunday (tonight) after the dyno to get a GOOD HD vid with someone in the car to take the vid, but my wastegate spring falls off at 23 compared to my 61mm setup I could run 29.5, so we are going to do it after I put both my springs back in tomm. The origional vid is a cell phone vid, and I want side by side running vid, I hate a vid of a race coming toward you. I can post that if you really want it, but be patient my good man..lol.. trust me, Ill have the vid of a 600 and the r1 for you to see..

I myself have a zx14 with a direct port 75 shot and a 7 inch over arm, and all your basics like pc3 airshifter and stuff. also have a 07 zx10. I dont want to race my own.. well the 10 anyway.. 14 would kill the TC

 

tofast4u

Thanks for clarifying on why you're with a .63.. but just for me - can you clarify if you're on a T4 exhaust housing or a T3. I don't know of any .58 AR T3 housings.. so going from a T4 .58 AR housing to a T3 .63 is a very different change. As you know, since you've been dealing with turbos a long time, you can't compare A/R from a T4 to a T3.. the radius from the turbo's centerline will be larger on a T4.

 

The dyno sheets I've seen of an .82 do not fall at redline. I thought the car was fully setup. Did not realize you were still doing things. So, what was the dyno run for, just to show numbers? Was it just base runs? Just wondering why you didn't go ahead and take the time to tune it right and install whatever wg springs in, as you did the dyno runs.