I got the Dezod S1 kit with AEM F/IC - i went to RIPP mods in staten island for a tune yesterday and had Perry tuning it. The AEM keeps throwing crank shaft sensor codes and makes the engine "hiccup" under boost. Perry got it so that it doesnt happen too much but it still does it at higer RMP. Also with 550cc injectors under 8.5psi the richest he could get it could get under boost is around 12 afr.

Any suggestions?

 

idk about the hiccup, but i thought you should tune for around 12.5 afr under boost. am i wrong on this?

 

I have heard anywhere from 10.5 to 12, but richer being safer for a daily driver

 

just give it some water it will help with the hic ups!!!

 

yea... thats what they suggested.... but id rather have it running right THEN give it some water!

 

the tC ECU crank sensor doesnt liked to be touched.
This is one of the differences between the emanage and f/ic. this is the way the f/ic alters timing

 

What does it do EXACTLY in this "hiccup"

 

Its like it misfires / detonates. Say your on it - full throttle and pulling hard, it feels like im hittin the breaks for a second. When this happens the CEL comes on throwing a crank shaft position sensor code.

Last night i figured out that this almost ONLY happens under WOT. The timing on my map maxes at a -24 like any other map for the tC, so i dont think its too retarded.

Which wire in the PnP Harness is the wire for the uego input for data logging?

- It also did this with every map that i have tried on it.
Im also running NGK 1 step colder plugs with a 32 gap
F/IC is running version 3

 

So wait.............You have -24 degrees of timing?

 

Yea, Same as the Dezod base map, and the "C" map.

 

We did NOT set that as the timing required by any means. We left it as a safe buffer your tuner should ween back timing until peak TQ starts to level off then retard a few degrees.

 

so i paid $400 for a half ___ tune?

So what should timing be at? Im guessing at lower RPM a little less than at high RPM since boost only increases at about 3500 rpms. Ill set timing to -19 @ redline, slowly increasing from -16 at 0 rpms (this is under 40 load)

So really i should try ^ my tune see if i get the same problem?

 

Timing @ WOT on the stock PCMs with an OBD2 scanner was verified between 16-22 degrees of full advance. If your values of -16 and -24 are at moderate loads, you guys are sub-par for timing, which leads to power loss and poor fuel economy.

 

Half ___ tune. freaking suck. I seen and heard a lot of people getting half ___ tunes lately.

 

Did a street tune, now its running at the right AFR's - still hiccups randomly, but only under WOT.

 

i have the same issue.

i need a GOOD tuner.

 

Street tuned and still doing it? Any ideas?

 

So - i found out you can change the intervals on the sides of the tuning software. That makes things easier. The tuner at Ripp must have change the intervals so when i looked at it on my laptop everything looked off. Ill be testing that theory later on today.

 

i thought if you change it on a map it transfers over to the other map even if it's on a different computer

if not that makes things a bit more complicated.

 

I would have expected the same! for whatever reason looking at the map they tuned for me it looks like spark is retared -22 @ 30 PSIA, and only -3 @ 24 PSIA. Plus my fule map has litteraly no gas @ 24PSI