let the questions begin...

 

Is light beer better for my motor then regular? Or should I use Ultra Michelob?

JK...But on a serious note, I understand with the TC's supercharger setup, it is more efficient to use the water/meth injection. I've seen the setup in pictures, but I still don't understand how it exactly works aside from the obvious fact it INJECTS it. Clue me in a lil bit?

 

What is water injection?

Water injection is a technology that is nearly as old as the car itself. However, like many automotive technologies, it has waxed and waned as fashion has dictated. Water injection has the ability to suppress detonation, allowing the use of higher cylinder pressures. It is easy to control and relatively simple to install. In times of tight emission controls, decreasing fuel octane and rising petrol costs, water injection is one of the best ways of controlling detonation. And it has another major advantage over taking other approaches - the 'fuel' is available at almost zero cost!

How it Works

Water injection is used to suppress detonation. Detonation occurs when the flame front does not burn progressively across the combustion chamber but instead explodes into action. This causes a massive and sharp increase in combustion pressures which can damage pistons, rings and even heads. Detonation can sometimes be heard as a 'tink, tink' sound coming from the engine.

Water injection works in three ways. Firstly, when the water is injected into the intake system prior to the cylinder head, the small droplets absorb heat from the intake air. Water has a very high specific heat rating (it can absorb lots of energy while only slowly increasing in temperature) and so the intake air is initially cooled. Next, the small drops of water start to evaporate. Water has a very high latent heat of evaporation (its change of state absorbs a lot of heat) and so the intake air charge is cooled still further. Finally, when the remaining water droplets and water vapour reach the combustion chamber, steam is produced. This acts as an anti-detonant and also keeps the interior of the engine very clean, so preventing the build-up of carbon "hot spots".

Water injection was first experimented with in the 1930s. At the time it was discovered that detonation could initially be prevented by enriching the air/fuel ratio. As cylinder pressures rose still further and that approach ceased being effective, the injection of water into the intake air stream was found to prevent detonation. Interestingly, the detonation remained suppressed, even if the air/fuel ratio was then leaned-out. This occurred because the excess fuel was being used to cool the combustion process. When water replaced fuel in performing this function, less fuel was then required.

This has major implications for both emissions and fuel economy at high engine loads. In fact Saab on some of their recent turbocharged cars has used water injection at high loads in conjunction with leaner air/fuel ratios to reduce emissions output and improve fuel consumption. To put this another way, at high engine loads it is possible to reduce the amount of fuel being used, replacing it with water without sustaining any loss of power!

--excerpt from autospeed.
So what is alky and methanol injection relate to water injection?

well they are the same , the diffrence is the type of liquids used on the resovoir.

Methanol has ability to act as a secondary fuel as well as a very fast cooling agent, problem is that 100% methanol is very expensive and its not feasable to run every day

Alky , is a type of alchohol used primarly to decrease the temperatures of the charged air , although cheaper than methanol , it will vaporize a lot faster than methanol or water thus not having the same level of efficiency in cleaning your motor and preventing detonation.

So what is the recommended mix

Usually under regular summer weather's you want to use up to about 40% methanol with a mix of water. There are some pre-mixed solutions out there are around $1.00 a gallon, its called windshield wiper fluid ( check the bottle to make sure its methanol and not other types of alchohol as well as other chemicals that may harm your car)

Racing/Drag Racing : 100% methanol

Auto-X I would use straight distilled water with a diluted alkyl solution.

The above recommendations are based upon observation , if you have a better observation on what we should run please go ahead and post.

Thats why this forum was created. For communication for us old school peeps running these types of systems

 

Well basically AMW injection does is raise the octane of your fuel similar to c16 values but it also cools your intake charge greatly (similar to how nitrous does) this is very benefitial on supercharged cars that produce a lot of heat and heat leads to knock...

 

Where to buy the mix already done? And why use distilled water with alky mix for Auto X?

 

snow performance is the only one who sells it premixed that i know of, many mix it on their own...

 

Honestly, all you need is Washer fluid (Which is basically water/30% meth) and a couple bottles of ISO HEET Fuel line antifreeze stuff (mostly meth). 1 bottle of the ISO HEET per gallon of washer fluid will get you about a 50/50 mix.

 

Thats For all The Info

 

yea you could but the additives over time can clogg the nozzles...

 

Watching...

 

What additives? it's all liquid. It's spraying into the Intake tubing right before the throttle body so it's all getting sucked down.

 

the dyes they use and they are never as pure as buying pure meth and distilled water...im not saying not to run the washer fluid its just that its cheaper to buy meth and mix your own...

 

wow you guys are finally here

ive seen you on other boards

 

thanks man, i have been trying to figure out which the main forum was for the scion crew...i think i have found it

 

Just so you all know, ZPI has just released this for the tC. If im correct, i believe they are making a braket to attache the Snow performance kit too. Check it out!

Stage 1:

http://www.zeropointindustries.net/s...roducts_id=339

The gasoline Stage 1 Boost Cooler™ kit is available for forced induction applications that are either fuel injected or carbureted. Operation is very simple: the system starts injecting when the boost switch reaches the user-adjustable point and it injects a fixed amount of fluid through the nozzle until the switch opens again.

This makes it a good choice for low to medium boost setups looking for an octane enhancement and cooler intake charge. Activation can also be set up through any other user-chosen switch, such as a full throttle switch, etc. Now with Lifetime Warranty - please see details.

Stage 2:

http://www.zeropointindustries.net/s...roducts_id=340

This kit uses the 0 to 5 Volt output signal from the Mass Air Flow sensor on many fuel injected vehicles. This means that any vehicle with a MAF (with a 0-5V output signal) can use this kit, whether they are naturally aspirated or forced induction.

If the application is forced induction, it can be used with very fast-spooling turbos, or positive displacement blowers. It is easier to set up with the positive displacement blowers with a MAF signal because it is more progressive in nature vs. the boost pressure signal on those applications. This allows for the most accurate injection possible over the widest range. The result is the most power and driveability possible. Now with Lifetime Warranty - please see details.

 

RippMods has theirs too. This is the same system that Karl (IceNine) has in his car:

https://www.rippstore.com/ProductDet...oductCode=1A1G

 

yup they are the kits, i helped make the suby srt and evo ones and would like to do the same, get feedback on what would make the kits more scion specific...

 

can we get some pictures of these kits installed on turbocharged or supercharged tC's ?

 

I Should be ordering my kit from ZPI 2 morrow. Im sure ill post PICS ASAP.

 

Kind of a dark pic but this is what's on Karl's (IceNine) Car: