all4degame's unboosted and needs a srs a-pillar HELP!
#842
Originally Posted by all4degame
What in the world are you talking about ace? lol. Does my problem sound like a vac leak to you ace?
and oh troubleshoot box is just a box of turbo parts you store or carry around just in case something happens.. it will come handy especially that most these parts is hard to find local..
What i have in my box
1. gaskets- t3, 4 bolt, deltagate, valve cover, manifold
2. t bolt clamps, worm gears
3. vband clamps
4. arp bolts
5. rachets, screw driver, hex key
6. teflon, red rtv
7. gapping tool
8. caliper
9. npt fittings, t fitting and couplers for vacuum hoses
10 other stuff
and oh zip ties!!!
#843
^ ur FUKN smart man. turn the car on and while its idling take some brake cleaner and spray over your vacuum lines. if the idle changed than you have a leak. you can spray it anywhere you think it could leak from. try it out,
#844
Originally Posted by scikotictc232
^ ur FUKN smart man. turn the car on and while its idling take some brake cleaner and spray over your vacuum lines. if the idle changed than you have a leak. you can spray it anywhere you think it could leak from. try it out,
#845
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Scikotics
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Oh man. This problem is soooooo intermittent. Tried working on the problem today with my buddy, we went back to stock ecu, stock injectors, and stock plugs to eliminate tune being a problem. The car kept surging with the vacuum staying at 10inHg after start up. We tried to spray WD40 on all the vac lines to pinpoint the problem but still didn't see a change in the idle. If we held the gas down at 2k or so, the car would purrr just fine and the boost gauge read 20inHg. We then tried to undo all the zip ties on the hoses and see if that made a difference on the idle...it didn't. Then he tried to pinch the vac lines one by one, and I tried to see if there was a change in pressure or not. As he went down the vac block, the car just started to idle normally at 20inHg out of the blue. We were puzzled. We let the car cool off and it still fires up just fine at 20inHg. I have notice that this problem happens usually only when i've let the car sit there for a little while. Once the car starts up, the problem usually doesn't happen anymore.
I'm just going to redo the vac block with yellow teflon, and use metal hose clamps. I hope that fixes it. Tune tomorrow though!
I'm just going to redo the vac block with yellow teflon, and use metal hose clamps. I hope that fixes it. Tune tomorrow though!
#846
Originally Posted by crush02342002
Originally Posted by scikotictc232
^ ur FUKN smart man. turn the car on and while its idling take some brake cleaner and spray over your vacuum lines. if the idle changed than you have a leak. you can spray it anywhere you think it could leak from. try it out,
#849
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Oil pressure issue is killing me. I think mobil 1 5-30 cannot handle the heat of my engine. We went out to take 7-8 WOT runs on the high way and my oil pressure was almost nothing at idle. On the way home we had to let the car cool down because we could hear the cams chattering because they were not getting lubed up. I think I'm going to switch over to 10w40 and see how that works. The tune was good when it was warm but now since the car cooled off, and I drove it home, it was running rich cruising. It had a rough time idling. I never catch a break around here man. lol.
#850
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Oh yeah, I'm throwing codes p0031 and p0012.
P0012 Generic Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0031 Generic HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0012 Generic Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0031 Generic HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
#851
when i changed ptguy08's oil he had 5w30 and his oil pressure numbers were around like 8-9 at idle after how.. we used royal purple 10w30 and his numbers are in the 20's when the car is cold once it heats up it stays around 15-20 deff seen a difference in changeing oil weights
#854
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Chris, i think it is just thermal break down of the oil. It just can't handle it. Even cruising after those WOT pulls my oil pressure was really low 8-9psi. It HAS to be it. I don't have any clogs, and it would be coincidental that my oil pump JUST went out the same time I did my turbo install.
It worries me too chris, when i heard my cams chattering, I just killed my motor and cruised it.
It worries me too chris, when i heard my cams chattering, I just killed my motor and cruised it.
#856
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hey Kev, Idle pressure is not as important cuz there's no load on the engine. When I was using Pennzoil Plat 5w-30 my idle was between 8-11 when warmed up good. Now with Royal Purple 5w-30 it sits at 10-14. Every oil is gonna be different even on the same weight category. With the pennzoil, it would only take about 10 miles drive to get to optimum temp on that oil (38-45 psi). On the RP it takes about 25 miles drive to get to (48-58 psi)
Lower pressure means more flow of oil=lower engine temps. Higher is not always more lubrication, that's just part of the oil properties, but it helps a bit with HEAVY engine loads to keep a film in between parts.
Personally I wouldn't go 10w-40, it is too thick at start up which is when u need most of ur lubrication. Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil for every 1000 rpm. When fully warmed up the 10w-40 protection is almost nothing compared to all the time that it takes to thin up.
I would stick with 5w-30 and just try getting one that might be on the thicker side, but that it's a lot thinner on cold start and warm up time compared to a 5w-40 or 10w-40.
Peace
Lower pressure means more flow of oil=lower engine temps. Higher is not always more lubrication, that's just part of the oil properties, but it helps a bit with HEAVY engine loads to keep a film in between parts.
Personally I wouldn't go 10w-40, it is too thick at start up which is when u need most of ur lubrication. Rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil for every 1000 rpm. When fully warmed up the 10w-40 protection is almost nothing compared to all the time that it takes to thin up.
I would stick with 5w-30 and just try getting one that might be on the thicker side, but that it's a lot thinner on cold start and warm up time compared to a 5w-40 or 10w-40.
Peace
#857
Originally Posted by all4degame
Chris, i think it is just thermal break down of the oil. It just can't handle it. Even cruising after those WOT pulls my oil pressure was really low 8-9psi. It HAS to be it. I don't have any clogs, and it would be coincidental that my oil pump JUST went out the same time I did my turbo install.
It worries me too chris, when i heard my cams chattering, I just killed my motor and cruised it.
It worries me too chris, when i heard my cams chattering, I just killed my motor and cruised it.
btw in case no one told you that boosting your car means your gonna get paranoid too
not saying its paranoia.
just need someone with an 05-06 to compair your oil pressure to in order to confirm.