Blew the head gasket on 2009 2.4L TC, gasket blew between cylinders, ends were fine. Used the Engine manual found on this website TC2009, MANUAL says head bolts should measure from under head to end of bolt and measure at between 161.3mm to 162.7mm with a max bolt length of 164.2mm.

Problem is my bolts measure 141.66mm, wtf?

Gonna clean the valve seats up as they got some water (rust) and shim the springs a little and adjust valves to:
Cold Intake .0075 " - .0114 "
Cold Exhaust .0118 " - .0158 "

Is the manual correct for valve settings?

I am looking to get ARP aftermarket head bolts and Cometic 3 layer head gaskets.

Where would you all recommend getting remaining top end gaskets from? What kind?

.. Other than Copper spray is there any compound that can be used on exhaust gaskets to get a better seal?

.. Can one buy rebuild kits for Blow off valves (spring) ?

Your thoughts and suggestions appreciated

 

When I had my Tc fully built I used arp studs and oem headgasket I heared is the best

 

Are you getting the head machined? Chances are if the gasket blew the head could be warped as well. To do that you'll have to strip the head though, valve spring compressors should be free to check-out at Autozone. Also, check the head bolt holes, if it's that short it might have sheared and left the bottom part in the block?

 

Thank You for the response,

yes I am definately getting the head resurfaced at a local engine machine shop. The valve seats also lightly resurfaced, tested for seal and install new valve seals.

The bolts are intact, I was told this morning that with '09's TC's the bolts are shorter and there is no ARP part to replace it at this time, so I may be stuck getting stock bolts from Toyota as they are definately a one shot deal and cannot be reused.

I am going with the multilayer .030" Cometic head gasket (will copper spray it well at install time), I am just not convinced the stock one is as durable.

Most times manuals recomend re-torquing the head bolts after initially running the engine, however on the TC. This would be a nightmare as it would mean re-(removing) the cam chain case and cams again as the head bolts are under the camshaft (except 2). Anyone have any tricks with this ?

Plans are to limit boost to 10-12 psi max, run plugs that are 2 heat ranges lower than stock Iridium plugs gapped at .032" - .034". Also installing digital water temp and oil pressure gauges to protect the vital's.

Regards,

 

^^^^ http://www.ptuning.com/html/search-r...r&cmbYear=2009

 

^^ Yup thats what you need, and what Im using on my 08 block.

 

Not sure on the 2AZ, but on the 1NZ engine in the 1gen xB there is an access port plug on the cam chain cover that allows you to release the chain tensioner. This lets you pull the cams without taking off the chain cover (a royal PITA w/ the engine installed). The other trick is the exhaust cam gear (non-VVT), can be removed from the cam still installed, this gives more chain slack and makes it easier to re-install. The only risk with it is it has to be tightened w/ a wrench, a ratchet won't fit so getting a torque reading is impossilbe on re-install. Use lock-tite and a big wrench and it should tighten up fine. Do you have the factory repair manual? I've only seen it online for the '05 tC, and I know they engine underwent some changes in '07+.

 

Thanks VetterEddie,

Much appreciated, yes there is a cam tension-er access port on the back (real pain in the butt location) but it can be removed. I was hoping this would create enough slack to remove the cams. I noticed the Exhaust cam gear nut. Thanks confirming this. Will use lock-tite thanks .....

 

Also thanks guys for the link to Ptuning.com (ARP2000 Head STUDS). They are out of stock right now, but worth the wait. Its the answer to the problem!


Thanks Again!