OK, so I am starting this thread to clear up a few things. I did not want to thread jack someone else's thread so here it is. I understand that if Nitrous is done right it CAN be beneficial but my experience of playing around with it resulted in something similar.

Here is a bit more info bout Nitrous..

One of the major problems of using Nitrous oxide in a reciprocating engine is that it can produce enough power to damage or destroy the engine. Very large power increases are possible, and if the mechanical structure of the engine is not properly reinforced, the engine may be severely damaged or destroyed during this kind of operation. It is very important with Nitrous oxide augmentation of internal combustion engines to maintain proper operating temperatures and fuel levels to prevent "preignition", or "detonation" (sometimes referred to as "knocking" or "pinging"). Most problems that are associated with Nitrous do not come from mechanical failure due to the power increases. Since Nitrous allows a much denser charge into the cylinder it dramatically increases cylinder pressures. The increased pressure results in heat, and heat will cause many problems from melting the piston, cylinder head or valves, to predetonation.
As all modifications to increase power, the use of Nitrous oxide carries with it concerns about the reliability and longevity of an engine. Due to the greatly increased cylinder pressures, the engine as a whole is placed under greater stress, especially the parts involved with the combustion chamber. An engine with components not able to cope with the increased stress imposed by the use of Nitrous systems can experience major engine damage, such as cracked or destroyed pistons, connecting rods, or crankshafts.

Even if the engine is up to the task, severe damage can occur if a problem occurs in the fuel system; an engine running with Nitrous oxide depends heavily on the proper air to fuel ratio to prevent detonation from occurring. For example, if the engine's fuel supply was to be reduced, this would cause the engine to run lean by whatever degree the fuel delivery was reduced by which can lead to engine knock or detonation. Depending on the engine, this may only need to occur for a matter of seconds before major damage occurs.

Some mechanism to disable the Nitrous system when knock is detected by a knock sensor would be beneficial.

OK and now to Boost just to be fair.

Reliability

Turbochargers can be damaged by dirty or ineffective oil, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent oil changes for turbocharged engines. Many owners and some companies recommend using synthetic oils, which tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils. Because the turbocharger will heat when running, many recommend letting the engine idle for one to three minutes before shutting off the engine if the turbocharger was used shortly before stopping (most manufacturers specify a 10-second period of idling before switching off to ensure the turbocharger is running at its idle speed to prevent damage to the bearings when the oil supply is cut off). This lets the turbo rotating assembly cool from the lower exhaust gas temperatures, and ensures that oil is supplied to the turbocharger while the turbine housing and exhaust manifold are still very hot; otherwise coking of the lubricating oil trapped in the unit may occur when the heat soaks into the bearings, causing rapid bearing wear and failure when the car is restarted. Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply and failure. This problem is less pronounced in diesel engines, due to the lower exhaust temperatures and generally slower engine speeds.

A turbo timer can keep an engine running for a pre-specified period of time, to automatically provide this cool-down period. Oil coking is also eliminated by foil bearings. A more complex and problematic protective barrier against oil coking is the use of watercooled bearing cartridges. The water boils in the cartridge when the engine is shut off and forms a natural recirculation to drain away the heat. Nevertheless, it is not a good idea to shut the engine off while the turbo and manifold are still glowing.

In custom applications utilizing tubular headers rather than cast iron manifolds, the need for a cooldown period is reduced because the lighter headers store much less heat than heavy cast iron manifolds.

Turbochargers can also suffer bearing damage and premature failure due to throttle blipping right before shutdown. This may cause the turbo to continue spinning after the engine has shutdown and oil pressure has dropped.

So OK now that I have stated some info I got off line can everyone that is boosted input their opinions and everyone that is running Spray please put in their .02 cents .. thanks and no hard feelings to anyone just trying to have a good debate bout each.

 

couldn't help it

 

I ran nitrous for a while in my tC. I would have to say that for the price i spent it was way better than a turbo set up. I installed it in about 2 hours and un-installed it in a 1/2 hour. I was able to keep my same gas mileage when driving around town.

I believe a 75 shot is perfect for the tC and probably equal to around 4-7 pounds of boost. No where near the danger zone of the 2AZ.

One con is the possibility of running out of nitrous. But on such a small shot a 10lb bottle will last quite a while, and a refill only takes about 5 minutes and 40 bucks.

I would have to say that for someone who is looking for more power but not looking to modify too much, nitrous is the way to go when done correctly.

The people who always bash nitrous either know nothing about it or have never tried it themselves. Its called science.

 

You don't have to refill a turbo.

I don't have much respect for people that just slap nitrous on their rides. These people that watch F&F too much and want NAWZZZ. For people that set it up right for hardcore racing applications, that's a little better, but I am just not a fan of nitrous.

 

^^ blew two gsr motors in my integra, sucked *****. did not like it after that. the second motor lasted me a bout a year and it was tuned for it. I ran a 75 on that motor and when it popped the local shop told me it lasted about the right amount of time and that others like my first motor are fried faster. car was tuned using a hhodata system. and I only sprayed on the weekends when racing it. I learned to love turbos after my dodge colt with a 4g63 swap was done. talk bout power to weigh.

 

great info!

 

thanks I had to do something about it when another member on here told me I did not know ____ about what I was talking bout because I said I did not like the stuff. I will be adding more as I keep researching it.

 

you would be better off turboing your car.. as for reliability idk.. but using the nitrous for a long time, refilling it adds up.. and in the long run the prices would be the same, and having a turbo installed and tuned right would last you longer.. just my opinion

 

thats what I was thinking.. I started this thread for a member on here but he has not showed up with his intelligence In sprayyyyy. so ya I am hands down all for the boost . but I do see it beneficial running the front mount intercooler nos kit.

 

Boost over Juice for me.

 

boost and juice would be a good combo also

 

Nawh boost and a CryO2 setup would be for me. Performance = boost show = CryO2.

Best setup imo.

(yes i know cryo2 has its increases as well)

 

my opiniom about the 2 is nitrous is great because you have no turbo lag. as soon as you spray its instant horse. but unfortunately you are paying every time you run out. the turbo is going to last longer and if you visit your local track a lot or use your spray a lot period the turbo is going to be cheaper in the long run.

the front mount spray bars dont actually add power at all. ive seen 2 cars dynod with them 1 specifically was a test and they added 0 whp. they are great for cooling off your fmic between pulls. other then thalt kinda useless.

and as far as the gas milage comment about boost. i got 330 miles outta my last tank. as long as you arent getting on the car it gets great milage.

 

lol is this even a legit question? I wont even read the previous comments..boost enough said

 

What if your trying to run something different from everyone else? I have been on this forum for quite some time and have run into very few people doing n20. But it seems everyone is doing turbo setup's. Which don't get wrong I love the feel of turbos and their awesome gains. But being in AZ, I don't need a bottle warmer and rarely see any imports juiced, but have seen plenty boosted. I guess i gotta be different, I gotta be that guy. lol

 

40 bucks a bottle man thats why you dont see many imports running spray.

 

every time you spray you are hearing your money disappearing to a land of no return.

 

finally decided to read a little back and this is the only valid comment i have bumped into

 

nitrous is awesome i ran it on my old vw direct port never had a problem with it i ran a 2 stage set up in my bug it was nice when done right with ignition retard and tuned for it it is just a reliable as a turbo when i was running it bottles to get refilled were 15-20 buck this was 4 or 6 years ago the power comes on strong as long as its done right its safe
its doing the same thing as a turbo adding more oxygen to your cylinder and as far as strain for the same power actually less strain no added back pressure also its free power it takes no power to make its power

 

Very good write up by the way!

I would have to say boost > nitrous also, power wise. even though i am running nitrous. I only went the nitrous route because i couldnt afford/want to do the install with the turbo. I installed the nitrous myself, and learned alot along the way. I plan on getting a turbo car 1 day, but im still young. yes i know the bottles cost alot 2 fill up, but im still on my same bottle a month 1/2 in.. so i figure 40$ every two months atleast isnt bad. Recon, i dont spray like a mad man everyday, i just have it there when i need it/want it. But im totally fine with the power my nitrous puts out, i like being able to turn it on and off and not have to worry about spraying at what not. Thats me though.

before i get flamed for doing the install alone... i had help, but for the majority of the part i did it myself. my moms b/f is an engineer so he helped me with the eletrical stuff and what not.

As for safety goes, in my opinion i think their both safe is done right, both dangerous if done badly. And yet, both can still mess up your car when they are done right.

hopefully this doesnt stir up the pot 2 much on here! haha