Cant get rid of turbo flutter/comp surges Help
#41
Hey guys i have a problem with turbo flutter and comp surges at low boost. When i shift at 6 psi(my max) its fine but anywhere below 4 psi i get ____ty flutter after my bov action.
Heres my current set up
Dezod Turbo kit
Turbonetics turbo charger
HKS BOV ver 1 (adapter pipe that is 2.5 in into 2.25 in charge pipes) It is located just before the throttle body and is at the softest adjustment
Tial Wastegate
My vac lines are 5/32 ID . I have one running from comp source on the turbo to the side port on the wastegate.
I have a vac block which is has my throttle body line running into it. Along with my bov, boost gauge (aem digital) and AEM FIC.
Current set up makes 22 in of vacuum at idle 24 to 26 at deaccel.
I used to have a greddy type rz that fluttered as well
any suggestions?
Heres what i am working on now....
Getting a 2.25 in adpater pipe and moving it closer to the intercooler
Any other suggestions will be appreciated
Thanks!
the pic is of the set up with my greddy
Heres my current set up
Dezod Turbo kit
Turbonetics turbo charger
HKS BOV ver 1 (adapter pipe that is 2.5 in into 2.25 in charge pipes) It is located just before the throttle body and is at the softest adjustment
Tial Wastegate
My vac lines are 5/32 ID . I have one running from comp source on the turbo to the side port on the wastegate.
I have a vac block which is has my throttle body line running into it. Along with my bov, boost gauge (aem digital) and AEM FIC.
Current set up makes 22 in of vacuum at idle 24 to 26 at deaccel.
I used to have a greddy type rz that fluttered as well
any suggestions?
Heres what i am working on now....
Getting a 2.25 in adpater pipe and moving it closer to the intercooler
Any other suggestions will be appreciated
Thanks!
the pic is of the set up with my greddy
try moving you vacuum source away from your throttle body. tie in to one of the vacuum lines on the opposite end of the manifold. your flutter may be coming for the Evap solenoid.
#43
#46
#47
If any BOV is open or fluctuating at idle, it requires adjustment until it remains firmly closed. The only possible exception would be a recirculated or filtered BOV located before a blow-thru MAS.
I'm done...
I'm done...
#49
You can have it open as long as you have a recirculated setup or like Fred said "located before a blow-thru MAS".
My Synpase setup is sucking in air at idle, it is connected after the MAF sensor. As long as the metered air is accounted for you will be ok.
I would also suggest if using a MAP sensor to find a singled out tap to put it on. You can tap one directly to your intake if you have to. Other sources using your vaccum can jack with the sensor reading correctly. If I could I wouldn't us a vaccum block at all and run each system part or sensor their own source. Very much like the intake in the picture.
My Synpase setup is sucking in air at idle, it is connected after the MAF sensor. As long as the metered air is accounted for you will be ok.
I would also suggest if using a MAP sensor to find a singled out tap to put it on. You can tap one directly to your intake if you have to. Other sources using your vaccum can jack with the sensor reading correctly. If I could I wouldn't us a vaccum block at all and run each system part or sensor their own source. Very much like the intake in the picture.
#50
here is my two pennies
hks ver 2= pretty good out of the box for higher boost, low boost will cause a bit of flutter and as it gets older will flutter much more.
hks ver 3= a bit better than the version 2 but will flutter slightly on low boost. havnt had one around here long enough to see how it does as the miles rack up.
synapse= they do the job but they seem to me more hype than anything, Iv had one apart and i will not own one after seeing its seals. The seals are thin o-rings inside a chambered piston which would wear out much sooner than one that uses a nomex diphragm.
EDIT* Iv had the synapse wastegate apart, not the bov. however I have had dealings with their bov and they seem ok as long as they are hooked up properly.
turbo xs rfl= leaky leaky little bastards, they use a brass piston that doesnt seal at all. However if your just looking for something that is loud look no further...lol
greddy type rz= mine leaks somewhat from the valve seat no matter how much i adjusted the spring tension. If I put too much tension on the spring it will flutter at 20psi, correctly adjusted it works fairly good at high pressures. low boost however will cause flutter. Its a give and take on this one.
All of these iv delt with at one time or another and iv learned most dont do very well on low boost (1-8psi). All that are adjustable need to be adjusted.
hks ver 2= pretty good out of the box for higher boost, low boost will cause a bit of flutter and as it gets older will flutter much more.
hks ver 3= a bit better than the version 2 but will flutter slightly on low boost. havnt had one around here long enough to see how it does as the miles rack up.
synapse= they do the job but they seem to me more hype than anything, Iv had one apart and i will not own one after seeing its seals. The seals are thin o-rings inside a chambered piston which would wear out much sooner than one that uses a nomex diphragm.
EDIT* Iv had the synapse wastegate apart, not the bov. however I have had dealings with their bov and they seem ok as long as they are hooked up properly.
turbo xs rfl= leaky leaky little bastards, they use a brass piston that doesnt seal at all. However if your just looking for something that is loud look no further...lol
greddy type rz= mine leaks somewhat from the valve seat no matter how much i adjusted the spring tension. If I put too much tension on the spring it will flutter at 20psi, correctly adjusted it works fairly good at high pressures. low boost however will cause flutter. Its a give and take on this one.
All of these iv delt with at one time or another and iv learned most dont do very well on low boost (1-8psi). All that are adjustable need to be adjusted.
Last edited by crush02342002; 10-02-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#53
Vin! I totally skipped over part of your intial post where you mentioned 5/32 ID vac lines. Most auto-manufacture specs specify: nothing under 3/8 vac lines are to be used for proper sensor operation. I know being a dealer mechanic isn't the same as a performance shop mechanic but small vaccum hoses cause a great deal of problems.
That 5/32 ID vac hose may be too small. Have you tried anything bigger?
That 5/32 ID vac hose may be too small. Have you tried anything bigger?
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