stevejohns29

did they set you up an anti-stall map?

BlackKnight

Not a good idea, need to fix the problem could become much worse later.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

its always gonna be like that with aggressive cams! some tuning might help but its not gonna go away, like i said maybe rich idle afrs like 12-13s might help with that..

and im not familiar with BC cams and how aggressive they are, im just basing on the fact that aggressive cams give rough idle.. not all race cars use aggressive cams.. on the drag stip i hear 9sec muscles sputter all day, those cars wouldnt even hold idle unless they give some throttle

Mrsanchez925

I had the same problem sort of... except mine would stall if i dumped the clutch to quick in first in stop and go traffic...

ask your tuner to change your injector response time to 1000, and if that doesnt work have him change it to 1100...

thats what i had my tuner do to my car.. right now im at 1000, and i rarely stall... unless its some serious stop and go traffic... so im planning on going back and getting it changed to 1100...

Jan06xB

Not to point out something that seems pretty obvious but if you open the hood and it runs smoother YOU HAVE AN EXHAUST LEAK BACK INTO THE INTAKE! You open the hood and the fumes eacape and it take in fresh air - close the hood and it takes in exhaust. High lift cams take some energy to keep turning and compressing the strong springs and at low rpm can actually stall the engine especially with a lightened flywheel. If properly tuned it still should idle well at 1000rpm. But if doesn't idle smooth at all then the stalling when you put the cluch in is not a clutch problem it is just an idle problem - simplest thing to check is the tail pipe smell if you have a good nose or if you see soot on the plugs. Are you guys indexing the plugs? Pointing all the electrode gaps towards the intake? I did mine and it does help make it smoother. The only other thing I could think of is the throttle sensor from the gas pedal - not sure what they connect to or look like since the xB is drive by cable not by wire but you want to make sure the closed position is adjusted properly. Same for the throttle plate driven by the motor. I also heard that a grounding kit helps the idle a lot too.

ToyoCel

Had my car checked out yesterday. There is are 2 cracks on my flex tube on my down pipe. The tune shop says this is whats causing my car to shut off. Everyone else I talk to says it would idle rough but not shut my car off completely. What do you guys think?!

Jan06xB

wha I say??

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

a crack at after the turbo is harmless unless its big enough that cause your O2 sensor not to read well.. if its after the primary O2 sensor and your wideband that you used to tune, that crack isnt gonna do anything

Jan06xB

Unless your leaking exhaust gets sucked back into the intake then it stalls.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

yes but that would require a good amount of exhaust to be sucked.. on all tc setups i've seen most intake have a good distance away from the dp/exhaust area, i doubt thats the problem in this case.. Its something you wanna take a look though.. i say rule it out and seal those leaks but i bet you're still gonna be stalling