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cold weather idle

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Old 01-05-2010, 08:34 PM
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Default cold weather idle

Mine is terrible! Takes awhile to start, when it does it sputters out and dies 4-5 times before holding a very unstable idle. The rpms surge between 500-1500rpm constantly untill it warms up. Anything I can do in my tune to help this? I run emanage ultimate and 550cc injectors.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:13 PM
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from a cold start mine idles at 2000 rpm for about 5 mins more or less. but i have a different motor
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:07 PM
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Mine idles at about 1500 for a few seconds then drops to 0 and the car stalls, it repeats this for about 5-10 minutes then will barely hold an idle, rpms sit a 1500 for a few seconds again and drop to 100-200 and picks back up. sometimes it stalls, sometimes it doesnt. it does this untill the needle passes the first line on the temp gauge by a few mm. I think its giving too much gas, now that its not frigid out im gonna cell trace on a cold start and match it to my wideband, might have to take out some fuel im guessing.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:09 PM
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fuel trims are to far off!
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:20 PM
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That wouldn't surprise me, I'm still driving on a summer tune. If thats the case tho, couldn't I test that by resetting the ecu and doing a cold start? Or do the STFT and LTFT not reset with the ecu?
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:23 PM
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your ecu can only adjust so much.. if its maxing one way out and it can not compinsate for this weather.. no good!

Whats ur ltft?
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:28 PM
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I dont have a scanguage personally, So not really sure, I know last time we tuned we had them pretty close but again it was 85 degrees out. I know I am having some fuel issues because at hiway cruising speeds the car stutters pretty bad around 2krpm with 10-15% throttle. does it every winter, in the summer its never happens. Last year I pulled some fuel from those cells and it helped my cruising but during wot runs it would spike lean going across those cells. (Main problem is we have no good tuners local, 80% of my tune is me...learning ha!)
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:48 PM
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somebody told me that when this happens, reset the ECU, disconnect the emanage, and let the car idle to relearn the fuel trims, then hook emanage back up.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:48 PM
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Mine did this, it was the emanage anti-stall setting/my throttle voltages. took a little messing with, but it only does it very rarely.

Heres what my datalog came up with-ecu saw engine stalling, opened throttle above emanages 3% value. emanage then percieved to anti-stall after ecu dropped. leaned out due to anti-stall, and then ecu went back up, repeat until something gives....

took me a while to figure this out....
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by draxcaliber
somebody told me that when this happens, reset the ECU, disconnect the emanage, and let the car idle to relearn the fuel trims, then hook emanage back up.
ill give this a shot and see if it helps. Im sure until i get my tune 100% accurate it will be a temporary fix tho right?
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 3min3m2
Mine did this, it was the emanage anti-stall setting/my throttle voltages. took a little messing with, but it only does it very rarely.

Heres what my datalog came up with-ecu saw engine stalling, opened throttle above emanages 3% value. emanage then percieved to anti-stall after ecu dropped. leaned out due to anti-stall, and then ecu went back up, repeat until something gives....

took me a while to figure this out....
right now my anti-stall settings are:

TP - 10
Time 5.0
Clamp (500rpm).98 (550rpm)1.04 (600rpm)1.08 (650rpm)1.10 (700rpm)1.15 (750rpm)1.20 (800rpm)0 after that all 0
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:35 PM
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AEM FIC FTW
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cburglb34
AEM FIC FTW
that was helpful, doesn't really matter what the logo on the box sitting in my car says. they both tune the same way and its obviously not a emanage issue. gg
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:02 PM
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Im going to chime in and say i agree with elevation, sounds like the fuel trims are too far off for the denser and colder winter air. Does it also happen when you turn the car back on while it is still warmed up?
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rozz-tC
that was helpful, doesn't really matter what the logo on the box sitting in my car says. they both tune the same way and its obviously not a emanage issue. gg

my remark was un called for but actually ur pretty wrong in the fact that the aem uses o2 skew....and maf clamping sooo.....no retuning for winter n summer these arent the only contributing factors just 2 off the top of my head


i was on a tune i made in the summer up until friday when i got tuned by ptuning for more power....



so all in all the name on box does matter but dont get me wrong the ultimate is a nice unit
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:39 PM
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Your fuel trims have nothing to do with this since fuel trims are corrections made by the ECU during closed loop operation, AFTER, the engine has warmed up.

Your main fuel map probably does not have enough fuel in the cell that is related to the conditions you are experiencing.

The reason your engine runs better once it is warmed has to do with the ECU entering closed loop operation and your short and long term fuel trims correcting your fuel delivery in the areas where your main fuel map is incorrect. That and engines need heat to run properly.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TJKASS
Im going to chime in and say i agree with elevation, sounds like the fuel trims are too far off for the denser and colder winter air. Does it also happen when you turn the car back on while it is still warmed up?
Runs fine when its warmed up, only during the first start of a cold day (unless it sits long enough to return to cold temps)
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DezodDon
Your fuel trims have nothing to do with this since fuel trims are corrections made by the ECU during closed loop operation, AFTER, the engine has warmed up.

Your main fuel map probably does not have enough fuel in the cell that is related to the conditions you are experiencing.

The reason your engine runs better once it is warmed has to do with the ECU entering closed loop operation and your short and long term fuel trims correcting your fuel delivery in the areas where your main fuel map is incorrect. That and engines need heat to run properly.
This is kinda what I was thinking, I did go ahead and reset the ecu and unplug the ultimate and let it idle. It did improve some but I wont know for sure until the car returns back to being completely cold.

On the next start up Ill take the laptop with me and monitor o2 readings and hopefully be able to adjust the map for a better idle. I know currently my "idle cells" are at 15. I know my trims are off but wasnt sure if that would affect cold start or not.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rozz-tC
right now my anti-stall settings are:

TP - 10
Time 5.0
Clamp (500rpm).98 (550rpm)1.04 (600rpm)1.08 (650rpm)1.10 (700rpm)1.15 (750rpm)1.20 (800rpm)0 after that all 0
I followed whats in the sticky, mine is
TP-3
Time-3
Clamp 1.28 across the board...

Like I said messing with mine fixed it...
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:03 PM
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Sorry, by trims I mean the values in those cells for idle, terminology mistake, not the percentage trims for closed loop. And since its only from a cold start this happens, it would definitely by an issue with the idle map, also why is your TP value set so high?
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