Any pics of the old damaged shaft? Always, interesting to see the damage, was your shaft or the bearings grinding before you switched shafts? If so how long did that go on for?

 

I didn't notice any grinding or abnormal noise.
Bearing on the left spins on the shaft and has rust on the surface.
Bearing on the right is very loose.
That's the only issues I found with the oem shaft.

 

Yea, thats what mine looked like. I had a squeeling noise on mine though, almost as if the belt was slipping. What happens is the bearings start to lock up, and then the shaft starts to rotate in the bearings. That should be hard to do and the bearings should spin in the housing much sooner than spinning on the shaft. Either way something will get broken, but if its your housing, its much cheaper to press in a metal ring to make up for the wear than it is to get a new shaft.

 

YAY I have a kit now too!
(well on the way)

I know I already said thank you but THANK YOU!!!!

 

I heard you got one of the newer units recently with the "new" shaft housing. When you swap shafts, take pics of the two next to each other. Would like to see the differences side by side. You may need to get the aluminum spacer ring in your pulley side housing shaved down a bit to make it fit properly. I know gwtc had that new design and thats what he needed to do.

 

It will be a while before I make the swap but I will definatly be taking pics/vids of the install for documentation reasons. I'll compare notes with gwtc before I dig into it. So glad you already have a video walkthrough of the swap.

 

I have 6 shafts left. Feel free to email/call/post me with any questions about installing the shaft or anything related.

 

Is this a question or a comment? Either way price is $490 shipped via paypal or $466 via check or m/o

 

For the people that are having problems with the shaft being different thickness between the bearings, I would suggest you do a test fit, when you take out the old shaft, clean the housing with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, then add some kind of grease, install the new shaft but leave out that spring washer, assemble the shaft and spin with your hand, if it turns as nice as it did when you had the shaft out of housing then you know you only need to leave out that spring washer, if it turns with some resistance you may need to have that ring spacer shaved a bit, I would do a little at a time until it feels right. Mine worked fine just removing the spring washer, so did my buddies 07 SC which I did a test fitting on it first and found that I have to leave out the spring washer too. Don't forget to clean out the housing after all is said and done, otherwise the loctite will not work properly, good luck and hope this helps.

 

^ Thanks for the info Guillermo! This has only happened to a few people so far, looks like there were some small dimension changes from some point in 2007 forward.

 

No problem, luckily there's an easy fix for it.

 

I tried that on mine but wasn't enough space relief but glad it is working for some folks.

 

Sorry to hear that, find a machine shop to shave off a bit from that o ring that goes right before the plate and the shaft, or take some rough sand paper and try to take some material off yourself and then use softer sand paper to smooth it out, either way good luck and hope you find a solution.

 

I have plenty of machine shop friends, won't cost anything just a pain to take the time to do it.

 

Are all 07 and above superchargers gonna have that fitting problem, I just bought a shaft and Im in the process of swapping mine out, what washer is it I need to shave down??

 

Not all of them no, only a couple so far. You'll know once you get the new shaft in the housing, then when you screw on the cover you can see if the shaft spins easily or not. There is a 90% change you won't have any issues.

 

Do this test fit before putting on the bearing loctite, I didn't and it was messy lol.

 

That bolt still won't come out, and it's getting rounded out, socket won't fit back there, the closed side of a wrench won't fit either. I put that anti sieze over night and nothin, just bought a blow torch, I'll see if that works, does any one have any suggestions??

 

Thats the bolt on the side of the engine. Like i said I never experienced any problems. I would keep shooting it with wd-40 and letting it soak in and then trying to put the wrench on there and hit the wrench with a small hammer to try to break it loose. If that fails bring out the tourch and heat the area around the bolt. If your rounding off the bolt, try to go one size smaller in the wrench to see it it works. Its going to be a pita if yo trash that bolt. When you hit it with the hammer don't hit so hard as to spin the wrench around the bolt, remember your trying to shock it loose, like what would happen with an impact gun. So many fast, medium strength taps, versus only a few big hits.

 

What bolt is he talking about? the 7psi pulley bolt?