Dezod S1 Installed...finally.
04-06-2008, 06:08 PM
#1
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Dezod S1 Installed...finally.
UPDATE***
Got the car tuned today at Church's and it is running nicely. We were only able to boost to 6.5psi because of the leap in the waste gate due to the down pipe. The car made pretty stable numbers:
253wtq/250whp
The car needs some fine tuning, like the oil leak, waste gate leak, exhaust routing issues and some loose ends. I will get the charts up later this week...too tired to do it now.
So after 3 months, much debating, a few thousand, 2 engines and a lot of headache...
We FINALLY dropped that baby back into the car. We went through a lot for this install...unfortunately...
A BIG BIG thanks to Jason (Sliver07) and Big Alex (pheonix). They fabricated new
intercooler mounts into the car for me since my stock one from Dezod were missing for whatever reason. I got a set of them in the mail about 2 weeks ago but I though they were secondary since this kit had been installed back in January, so I thought nothing of it. They got that thing mounted and drilled about 4 holes in the frame haha.
We also came across a missing coupling which no one in the state of california carries apparently. We had to use some ghetto "spectre" coupling from Pepgirls...I really need to replace that. Jason also drove to LA to pick up a new O2 sensor for the downpipe since the one I pulled off was stripped and cross threaded into oblivion.
Also thanks to Joe Currao from DezodWest and Little Alex (browndogg) for answering all of my phone calls. I do appreciate the help from 300 miles away heh.
Now, onto the car.
We have 4 problems with the car as of now. It is in running condition and I drove from orange county to San Diego with no issues (I was not in boost at any point in time, I have learned my lesson...)
Issues: Exhaust Leak, Boost Gauge non-functional, fuel rail/injectors/, tune, Oil leak on the Greddy Sandwich plate.
Exhaust leak: There is a small area on the waste gate meets the turbine area leak caused by a miss spec'd down pipe. We know about this but the leak is rather large. Joe @ Dezod knows about it as well. No matter how much I torqued it down it would not close the gap. I don't know how severe this is to the set up as far as causing damage.
Boost gauge: We have the vacuum lines all routed together and the blow off valve is working. I am assuming that the waste gate is working but I wont be able to tell unless I have a working boost gauge. This is mainly why I stayed out of boost on the way home. I used the AFR gauge to guide me. I have no idea why the gauge is not reading...it stays at 0PSI which implies to me that it is hooked up but it is not getting any kind of vacuum pressure. Maybe I don't have it hooked up right after all?
Maybe a vacuum block overnighted from Todd can fix this?
Fuel Rail: When I removed the injectors all of them were fitted well and tight except for the one closest to the passenger side. That last injector is loose. I don't think it is the donuts because those were seated fine. When I place the rail back on and everything is flush including the other 3 injectors the last one has a large gap in the fitments. It does not sit flush on the rail. Bad thing? Might be...Need a new fuel rail or new gaskets?
Tune: Since we ran so late I was not able to make my date with Church's. I still had the base map from Joe so the car started fine. It ideals at 13.9-14.5 AFR which is good. When I am cruising down the free way, 70mph, cruise control it is at a static 13.1-13.3 which is fine.
When I shift and it loses fuel it jumps to about 17AFR then blanks out. I am assuming that this is because I am not giving it gas so naturally it leans out. Dur? Aside from that the AFR when we did boost it stayed around 11.5-12ish during most of it through 2-3-4th gear.
I will get it tuned by Church's next weekend.
Sandwich plate: When I parked the car after the 90 mile ride home and 1.5 hrs later I can see a small amount of oil on the filter. It looks like the sandwich plate sprayed some oil onto my tire and on the back of the oil pan. How can I fixed this?
Just tighten it down some more? The Oil pressure gauge reads 15psi when at idle after it is warmed up and was reading 70psi when on the freeway.
Some pics from my phone, excuse the quality:
Thanks to everyone for the help! I will be getting a hold of both Todd and Joe for some new parts this week to get this baby fully operational!
Got the car tuned today at Church's and it is running nicely. We were only able to boost to 6.5psi because of the leap in the waste gate due to the down pipe. The car made pretty stable numbers:
253wtq/250whp
The car needs some fine tuning, like the oil leak, waste gate leak, exhaust routing issues and some loose ends. I will get the charts up later this week...too tired to do it now.
So after 3 months, much debating, a few thousand, 2 engines and a lot of headache...
We FINALLY dropped that baby back into the car. We went through a lot for this install...unfortunately...
A BIG BIG thanks to Jason (Sliver07) and Big Alex (pheonix). They fabricated new
intercooler mounts into the car for me since my stock one from Dezod were missing for whatever reason. I got a set of them in the mail about 2 weeks ago but I though they were secondary since this kit had been installed back in January, so I thought nothing of it. They got that thing mounted and drilled about 4 holes in the frame haha.
We also came across a missing coupling which no one in the state of california carries apparently. We had to use some ghetto "spectre" coupling from Pepgirls...I really need to replace that. Jason also drove to LA to pick up a new O2 sensor for the downpipe since the one I pulled off was stripped and cross threaded into oblivion.
Also thanks to Joe Currao from DezodWest and Little Alex (browndogg) for answering all of my phone calls. I do appreciate the help from 300 miles away heh.
Now, onto the car.
We have 4 problems with the car as of now. It is in running condition and I drove from orange county to San Diego with no issues (I was not in boost at any point in time, I have learned my lesson...)
Issues: Exhaust Leak, Boost Gauge non-functional, fuel rail/injectors/, tune, Oil leak on the Greddy Sandwich plate.
Exhaust leak: There is a small area on the waste gate meets the turbine area leak caused by a miss spec'd down pipe. We know about this but the leak is rather large. Joe @ Dezod knows about it as well. No matter how much I torqued it down it would not close the gap. I don't know how severe this is to the set up as far as causing damage.
Boost gauge: We have the vacuum lines all routed together and the blow off valve is working. I am assuming that the waste gate is working but I wont be able to tell unless I have a working boost gauge. This is mainly why I stayed out of boost on the way home. I used the AFR gauge to guide me. I have no idea why the gauge is not reading...it stays at 0PSI which implies to me that it is hooked up but it is not getting any kind of vacuum pressure. Maybe I don't have it hooked up right after all?
Maybe a vacuum block overnighted from Todd can fix this?
Fuel Rail: When I removed the injectors all of them were fitted well and tight except for the one closest to the passenger side. That last injector is loose. I don't think it is the donuts because those were seated fine. When I place the rail back on and everything is flush including the other 3 injectors the last one has a large gap in the fitments. It does not sit flush on the rail. Bad thing? Might be...Need a new fuel rail or new gaskets?
Tune: Since we ran so late I was not able to make my date with Church's. I still had the base map from Joe so the car started fine. It ideals at 13.9-14.5 AFR which is good. When I am cruising down the free way, 70mph, cruise control it is at a static 13.1-13.3 which is fine.
When I shift and it loses fuel it jumps to about 17AFR then blanks out. I am assuming that this is because I am not giving it gas so naturally it leans out. Dur? Aside from that the AFR when we did boost it stayed around 11.5-12ish during most of it through 2-3-4th gear.
I will get it tuned by Church's next weekend.
Sandwich plate: When I parked the car after the 90 mile ride home and 1.5 hrs later I can see a small amount of oil on the filter. It looks like the sandwich plate sprayed some oil onto my tire and on the back of the oil pan. How can I fixed this?
Just tighten it down some more? The Oil pressure gauge reads 15psi when at idle after it is warmed up and was reading 70psi when on the freeway.
Some pics from my phone, excuse the quality:
Thanks to everyone for the help! I will be getting a hold of both Todd and Joe for some new parts this week to get this baby fully operational!
04-06-2008, 06:53 PM
#4
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Sven: I like them there, leave me alone haha.
UnX: Yes, but we had issues with the intercooler so that is where it sits for now. I am going to change it in May once I get some new pipes.
UnX: Yes, but we had issues with the intercooler so that is where it sits for now. I am going to change it in May once I get some new pipes.
04-06-2008, 07:17 PM
#6
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Re: Dezod S1 Installed...finally.
Issues: Exhaust Leak, Boost Gauge non-functional, fuel rail/injectors/, tune, Oil leak on the Greddy Sandwich plate.
Exhaust leak: There is a small area on the waste gate meets the turbine area leak caused by a miss spec'd down pipe. We know about this but the leak is rather large. Joe @ Dezod knows about it as well. No matter how much I torqued it down it would not close the gap. I don't know how severe this is to the set up as far as causing damage.
1 You are prbly loosing a lot of boost buy having a gap like that on your wastegate..It could always be warped and might need some machining
2 go to checker and get a copper line which wont kink like the teflon and hook it up... the other thing it you might have your T in the wrong place... that was the case for me
Fuel Rail: When I removed the injectors all of them were fitted well and tight except for the one closest to the passenger side. That last injector is loose. I don't think it is the donuts because those were seated fine. When I place the rail back on and everything is flush including the other 3 injectors the last one has a large gap in the fitments. It does not sit flush on the rail. Bad thing? Might be...Need a new fuel rail or new gaskets?
3 I would say new gaskets unless you distroyed your rail trying to get the old ones out
When I shift and it loses fuel it jumps to about 17AFR then blanks out. I am assuming that this is because I am not giving it gas so naturally it leans out. Dur? Aside from that the AFR when we did boost it stayed around 11.5-12ish during most of it through 2-3-4th gear.
4 Dont drive it like that its detonating... which is No good unless you wanna buy a new motor... dont drive it until you get it tuned unless you wanna be replacing gaskets and rings later.
Sandwich plate: When I parked the car after the 90 mile ride home and 1.5 hrs later I can see a small amount of oil on the filter. It looks like the sandwich plate sprayed some oil onto my tire and on the back of the oil pan. How can I fixed this?
5 Take your sandwich plate off.. put some high temp in between the 2 rubber seals.. make sure you teflon tape evrything really well theat will eliminate the leaking... and go get some machanical guages b/c the electric are compleatly inaccurate especially if there is a leak...why do you need a sandwich plate anyway... the only reason is for an oil cooler which you dont have right? if you need a oil pressure reading take it from the block where your dummy light and pressure line go to your turbo.
Just tighten it down some more? The Oil pressure gauge reads 15psi when at idle after it is warmed up and was reading 70psi when on the freeway.
6 Not even close to what the readings should be... its oil pressure it should be higher when the care is cold then warm on the highway... it should be between 60-80psi when cold and 40-60psi when warm
Exhaust leak: There is a small area on the waste gate meets the turbine area leak caused by a miss spec'd down pipe. We know about this but the leak is rather large. Joe @ Dezod knows about it as well. No matter how much I torqued it down it would not close the gap. I don't know how severe this is to the set up as far as causing damage.
1 You are prbly loosing a lot of boost buy having a gap like that on your wastegate..It could always be warped and might need some machining
2 go to checker and get a copper line which wont kink like the teflon and hook it up... the other thing it you might have your T in the wrong place... that was the case for me
Fuel Rail: When I removed the injectors all of them were fitted well and tight except for the one closest to the passenger side. That last injector is loose. I don't think it is the donuts because those were seated fine. When I place the rail back on and everything is flush including the other 3 injectors the last one has a large gap in the fitments. It does not sit flush on the rail. Bad thing? Might be...Need a new fuel rail or new gaskets?
3 I would say new gaskets unless you distroyed your rail trying to get the old ones out
When I shift and it loses fuel it jumps to about 17AFR then blanks out. I am assuming that this is because I am not giving it gas so naturally it leans out. Dur? Aside from that the AFR when we did boost it stayed around 11.5-12ish during most of it through 2-3-4th gear.
4 Dont drive it like that its detonating... which is No good unless you wanna buy a new motor... dont drive it until you get it tuned unless you wanna be replacing gaskets and rings later.
Sandwich plate: When I parked the car after the 90 mile ride home and 1.5 hrs later I can see a small amount of oil on the filter. It looks like the sandwich plate sprayed some oil onto my tire and on the back of the oil pan. How can I fixed this?
5 Take your sandwich plate off.. put some high temp in between the 2 rubber seals.. make sure you teflon tape evrything really well theat will eliminate the leaking... and go get some machanical guages b/c the electric are compleatly inaccurate especially if there is a leak...why do you need a sandwich plate anyway... the only reason is for an oil cooler which you dont have right? if you need a oil pressure reading take it from the block where your dummy light and pressure line go to your turbo.
Just tighten it down some more? The Oil pressure gauge reads 15psi when at idle after it is warmed up and was reading 70psi when on the freeway.
6 Not even close to what the readings should be... its oil pressure it should be higher when the care is cold then warm on the highway... it should be between 60-80psi when cold and 40-60psi when warm
04-06-2008, 07:20 PM
#7
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Paul, let me know when you are going and I will meet you down there and take a look at everything! and make sure all is good to go!
As far as the Fuel Rail: Take it out and make sure all the o-rings are seated right, should plug right in with no problems. Is it leaking fuel into the engine bay?
Boost Gauge: That is a whole mess of Vacuum lines, might want to invest in a Vacuum block, there are a million on the net that you can order, get overnighted or something and clean that up a tad.
Im calling you right now...
As far as the Fuel Rail: Take it out and make sure all the o-rings are seated right, should plug right in with no problems. Is it leaking fuel into the engine bay?
Boost Gauge: That is a whole mess of Vacuum lines, might want to invest in a Vacuum block, there are a million on the net that you can order, get overnighted or something and clean that up a tad.
Im calling you right now...
04-06-2008, 07:59 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
good to see u got home and all seems to be going well... when u passed out last nite, jason and i took it for one more test drive....
there is/was no fuel leaking when the injector seporated but i would definatley get that checked when u can.
keep me in touch this week on how its running and all.....ill see u next week when u tune it - let me know time and place.
baby it!!!!!
Originally Posted by Mightygnu
As far as the Fuel Rail: Take it out and make sure all the o-rings are seated right, should plug right in with no problems. Is it leaking fuel into the engine bay?
keep me in touch this week on how its running and all.....ill see u next week when u tune it - let me know time and place.
baby it!!!!!
04-06-2008, 08:05 PM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Originally Posted by JL56TC
Originally Posted by unxpectederror
isn't that intake supposed to be under the charge pipes?
im not quite sure seeing that this was my first Dezod kit that i worked on but it looks good and not in the way of anything else...
JL56TC - do u have this kit? is urs on top? could u post a pic if so, id like to see how it is on another car thats also over
04-06-2008, 08:17 PM
#13
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Hey man,
I know we talked ealier today. You had the vacuum lines on the wastegate and the greddy pressure sensor connected all to eachother, and not a vacuum source. That's why you had the AFR problems. It will be fixed once you re-do the hoses to get them connected to eachother.
Let me know how it's running once you fix the vacuum lines.
I know we talked ealier today. You had the vacuum lines on the wastegate and the greddy pressure sensor connected all to eachother, and not a vacuum source. That's why you had the AFR problems. It will be fixed once you re-do the hoses to get them connected to eachother.
Let me know how it's running once you fix the vacuum lines.
04-06-2008, 08:18 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Hey man,
I know we talked ealier today. You had the vacuum lines on the wastegate and the greddy pressure sensor connected all to eachother, and not a vacuum source. That's why you had the AFR problems. It will be fixed once you re-do the hoses to get them connected to eachother.
Let me know how it's running once you fix the vacuum lines.
I know we talked ealier today. You had the vacuum lines on the wastegate and the greddy pressure sensor connected all to eachother, and not a vacuum source. That's why you had the AFR problems. It will be fixed once you re-do the hoses to get them connected to eachother.
Let me know how it's running once you fix the vacuum lines.
04-06-2008, 08:28 PM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Haha... yep.
You should see the GSX. Stock that car has more hoses than anything I've ever seen. Makes for a common boost leak issue. Oh well...
Damn vacuum lines.
You should see the GSX. Stock that car has more hoses than anything I've ever seen. Makes for a common boost leak issue. Oh well...
Damn vacuum lines.
04-06-2008, 11:42 PM
#18
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I just finished cleaning up my Vac lines. It looks infinitely cleaner. I used a 5 part T connector for most of the lines and used new vac line hoses as well.
I would show a picture of it but my phone is in the other room haha.
The Boost gauge works now as well +D
I would show a picture of it but my phone is in the other room haha.
The Boost gauge works now as well +D
04-07-2008, 12:09 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by anurok
I just finished cleaning up my Vac lines. It looks infinitely cleaner. I used a 5 part T connector for most of the lines and used new vac line hoses as well.
I would show a picture of it but my phone is in the other room haha.
The Boost gauge works now as well +D
I would show a picture of it but my phone is in the other room haha.
The Boost gauge works now as well +D
