There are ways to keep the transmission cool to help this as ptuning did! I know i plan on pushing the car untill i can not go any furture. 50PSI is not that unherd of in the drag world.

Expecially when evo's DD at 30 psi locally.. Sounds crazy but i see it all the time!


BTW, Looks great. What head studs are those that taper?

 

I paid for the sleeves for my peace of mind. Eventually the car will be 20-25psi daily (long term goal) so I rather have the upgraded sleeves than not. I understand the stock sleeves are great - but I want the bottom end bullet proof for my goals.

Those were purchased from Dezod as well. Yes they're different from PTuning's.

 

I had dezod one before could swore they were diff. its been a while though. I thought they were oem at first.

Deff get off the fic and get on the hydra. stock redline built head = the lose! 8k feels great

 

I can't agree more regarding redline - however from what I've seen from others, the power and torque drops off significantly after 7000. Our heads are crying for better cams. I'll definitely throw the Hydra on when I get some free time and tune up to 7200 or so. I won't go higher until a good set of cams are available for us.

Anyone have decent results with the BC's?

 

first.. hats off to ya rob the build looks great!!! pick me up after work so we can have fun lol..

that bette feeling your getting and response is for sure the p&p head. i noticed that also when i did mines.

and x2 on the redline.. its normal to see at peak power the decrease of hp and tq in the tc its just the way the head was made, it was never ment to be a top end bruiser. did you go with ovesized valves? and "suposedly" the BS stg 3 cams showed gains but ive always been skeptical about them since they've never once put out technical info on them or even dyno numbers. But on "paper" comparing the stock tc profiles with the BC it would be a huge help.

btw congrats on getting married, finding a house, and becoming an old fart like me lol...

 

oh and which shop is has been doing the build for you and checking all your clearences??

 

Thanks for the words, Pete.

The motor's clearances were done by Dezod - they blueprinted the whole thing. The head was done by Dezod at first initially..

The head's clearances were re-done by a machinist that Olympic Motorsports uses - and Olympic was the shop that put together the long-block and performed the motor swap. They were great to work with as well - considering it's only two main guys and a couple of other part-timers. Their main Toyota guy is Julio - very knowledgable about Toyotas and was first to alert me about the head cam bucket clearance issues before I even did anything.

 

looks good rob. gotta love the quality that dezod brings to the table.

 

well both marcelos and chads motors haven't blown despite their massive abuse to each so far so that would be a testament to their engine building skills. I hope you get it all dialed in soon bro. Im very jealous! lol

 

chad didnt build his engine with olympic motorsports. he did it somewhere else. olympic did the rest of the work on his car. me, rob, and mason from this forum have built our engines with olympic so far so good. and i'm on 20psi still running good. hopefully running better by this weekend. ;;cough ROB!;; lol

 

looks great mang! i've been waiting for you to post this.. im still sourcing for some core short blocks and head, once I get them i should be getting mine soon!

 

W00t! Keep me posted.

 

Rob,

Thanks for the good words. I just want to point out something here though. If the correct procedure is followed from the service manual then you do not have to disassemble the cylinder head. The only time you would disassemble the cylinder head is if the valves needed grinding and you want to retain your own valve buckets. This is Toyotas design and would have to be done no matter who builds the cylinder head. That is all.

VALVE CLEARANCE

ADJUSTMENT

Valve Lifter Selection Chart (Intake)

New Lifter Thickness

New Lifter Thickness

Valve Lifter Selection Chart (Exhaust)

New Lifter Thickness

New Lifter Thickness

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL CAUTION: Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt pretensioner activation.
2. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL RH
3. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
5. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
6. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
7. REMOVE FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
8. REMOVE VANE PUMP ASSEMBLY
9. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RH
10. REMOVE IGNITION COIL ASSEMBLY
11. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
12. SET NO. 1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

1. CHECK VALVE CLEARANCE

a) Check only the valves indicated.
1) Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the valve lifter and camshaft.
Standard valve clearance (cold) Standard valve clearance (cold)



2) Record any out-of-specification valve clearance measurements. They will be used later to determine the required replacement valve clearance lifters. b) Turn the crankshaft 1 revolution (360°) and set the No. 4 cylinder to the TDC/compression.



c) Check only the valves indicated.
1) Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the valve lifter and camshaft.
Standard valve clearance (cold) Standard valve clearance (cold)


2) Record any out-of-specification valve clearance measurements. They will be used later to determine the required replacement valve lifters.

1. ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

a) Remove the No. 2 camshaft. b) Remove the camshaft. c) Remove the valve lifters. d) Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the removed valve lifters. e) Calculate the thickness of a new lifter so that the valve clearance comes within the specified values.
New lifter thickness New lifter thickness


EXAMPLE (Intake):
Measured intake valve clearance = 0.40 mm (0.0158 inch)
0.40 mm (0.0158 inch) - 0.24 mm (0.0095 inch) = 0.16 mm (0.0063 inch)
(Measured - Specification = Excess clearance)
Used lifter measurement = 5.250 mm (0.2067 inch)
0.16 mm (0.0063 inch) + 5.250 mm (0.2067 inch) = 5.410 mm (0.2130 inch)
(Excess clearance + Used lifter = Ideal new lifter)
Closest new lifter = 5.410 mm (0.2130 inch)
Select No. 42 lifter

f) Select a new lifter with a thickness as close as possible to the calculated values. HINT: Lifters are available in 35 sizes in increments of 0.020 mm (0.0008 inch), from 5.060 to 5.740 mm (0.1992 to 0.2260 inch).


g) Install the selected valve lifter.
Standard intake valve clearance (cold): 0.19 to 0.29 mm (0.008 to 0.011 inch)
EXAMPLE:
The 5.250 mm (0.2067 inch) lifter is installed, and the measured clearance is 0.400 mm (0.0157 inch).
Replace the 5.250 mm (0.2067 inch) lifter with a new No. 42 lifter.
Standard exhaust valve clearance (cold): 0.30 to 0.40 mm (0.012 to 0.016 inch)
EXAMPLE:
The 5.340 mm (0.2102 inch) lifter is installed, and the measured clearance is 0.440 mm (0.0173 inch).
Replace the 5.340 mm (0.2102 inch) lifter with a new No. 4 lifter.

1. INSTALL CAMSHAFT

a) Apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal portion of the camshaft. b) Install the timing chain onto the camshaft timing gear with the paint mark aligned with the timing mark in the camshaft timing gear as shown in the illustration.


c) Examine the front marks and numbers and check that the order is as shown in the illustration. Then install the bearing caps into the cylinder head. d) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the bearing cap bolts.


e) Using several steps, uniformly tighten the 10 bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration.
Torque: 29.5 Nm (301 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.) for No. 1 bearing cap
9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) for No. 3 bearing cap

1. INSTALL NO. 2 CAMSHAFT

a) Apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal portion of the No. 2 camshaft.


b) Put the No. 2 camshaft on the cylinder head with the paint mark of the chain aligned with the timing mark in the camshaft timing sprocket.


c) While holding the No. 2 camshaft by hand, temporarily tighten the camshaft timing sprocket set bolt.


d) Examine the front marks and numbers and check that the order is as shown in the illustration. Then install the bearing caps onto the cylinder head. e) Apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads and under the heads of the bearing cap bolts.


f) Using several steps, uniformly tighten the 10 bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration.
Torque: 29.5 Nm (301 kgf-cm, 22 ft. lbs.) for No. 1 bearing cap
9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) for No. 3 bearing cap


g) While holding the camshaft with a wrench, tighten the camshaft timing sprocket set bolt.
Torque: 54 Nm (551 kgf-cm, 40 ft. lbs.) NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the valve lifter.




h) Check that the paint marks on the chain and camshaft timing gear and sprocket are aligned. Also, check that the crankshaft pulley groove is aligned with the timing mark 0 of the timing chain cover.

1. INSTALL NO. 1 CHAIN TENSIONER

a) Release the ratchet pawl, then fully push in the plunger and hook the hook to the pin so that the plunger is in the position shown in the illustration.


b) Install a new gasket and the chain tensioner with the 2 nuts.
Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) NOTICE: When installing the chain tensioner, set the hook again if the hook releases the plunger.




c) Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, then disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.


d) Turn the crankshaft clockwise, then check that the plunger is extended.

1. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
2. INSTALL IGNITION COIL ASSEMBLY
3. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RH
4. INSTALL VANE PUMP ASSEMBLY
5. INSTALL FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
6. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
7. CHECK FOR ENGINE OIL LEAKS
8. INSTALL NO. 1 ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
9. INSTALL FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
10. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
11. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
12. INSTALL FRONT WHEEL RH
13. PERFORM INITIALIZATION

a) Perform initialization. NOTICE: Certain systems need to be initialized after disconnecting and reconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.

 

Nice Rob!

Thanks for all of the kind words man. Means a lot.

I just wanted to note that the short block is fully assembled and blue printed here at Dezod to our specs. Rob, like every short block customer, receives our race engine spec form with all of the clearances and torque specs of it.

Let's see some more boost!

 

nice cant wait to see some numbers ...

 

I just finished a PDF version of this doc that Don posted that will be available for DL on our tech notes section.

 

Finished!

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=177098

 

all those specs are the same to all years right?

 

There a few more lifter choices on the lower end of the 07+ than the 05-06, other than that, should be all the same.

 

ya i ran into this problem when the shop did valves on my car.. they had to send it back to the machine shop to shave the head down or something and then it took them forever to find the right buckets although i still dont think there perfect because my head is loud lol.. but this was like 2 years ago..