ecko04 - Bye-Bye tC - Trading in soon
#261
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Originally Posted by Exodus
^^^^ yeah man.... that's what we do when we have nothing better to do... and we where lighting firecrackers too...lol
#262
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Originally Posted by ecko04
Originally Posted by Exodus
^^^^ yeah man.... that's what we do when we have nothing better to do... and we where lighting firecrackers too...lol
#264
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Originally Posted by Cwatz5219
Originally Posted by ecko04
Originally Posted by Exodus
^^^^ yeah man.... that's what we do when we have nothing better to do... and we where lighting firecrackers too...lol
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I lean more towards monster
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#265
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Originally Posted by crush02342002
Originally Posted by Cwatz5219
Originally Posted by ecko04
Originally Posted by Exodus
^^^^ yeah man.... that's what we do when we have nothing better to do... and we where lighting firecrackers too...lol
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I lean more towards monster
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Update 7/2/2009
I installed the Mishimoto radiator today, so there was a coolant flush involved, installed the Gates lower temp thermostat and blue rad hoses.
I would love to get the slim shroud for the radiator but I don't have the funds for that right now.
I got rid of a few CEL's today by putting in a new primary O2 and putting my CEL eliminator back on the secondary O2.
The Mishimoto rad leaked like the dickens but I solved that issue with some Teflon tape.
Put on the new exhaust manifold gasket on and sealed it with RTV for that leak proof seal.
Re-calibrated my LC-1 wideband.
All and all its been a pretty long day. Mainly extending the wires on the O2 sensor with it mounted on the car already.....PITA.
As each day passes the car runs smoother and I am happier.
Now I return you to your regularly scheduled thread jack...already in progress.
I installed the Mishimoto radiator today, so there was a coolant flush involved, installed the Gates lower temp thermostat and blue rad hoses.
I would love to get the slim shroud for the radiator but I don't have the funds for that right now.
I got rid of a few CEL's today by putting in a new primary O2 and putting my CEL eliminator back on the secondary O2.
The Mishimoto rad leaked like the dickens but I solved that issue with some Teflon tape.
Put on the new exhaust manifold gasket on and sealed it with RTV for that leak proof seal.
Re-calibrated my LC-1 wideband.
All and all its been a pretty long day. Mainly extending the wires on the O2 sensor with it mounted on the car already.....PITA.
As each day passes the car runs smoother and I am happier.
Now I return you to your regularly scheduled thread jack...already in progress.
#272
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Originally Posted by NYNCTC
nice man! when you gonna let me get a look at it?
I think I have an exhaust leak somewhere so i'm going to tighten everything up, pull off the front bumper and make sure everything is tight and bolted down. I'll be doing that early in the morning before it gets too hot.
Aside from that i'm pretty much free all day Friday and Saturday.
#274
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Has anyone had any problems with their AEM Oil Pressure gauge reading just dashed lines across the display?
I was out trying to do some datalogging and I notice my display just read all dashed lines after reading oil pressure fine before. I pulled over and cut the engine off. I look under the car for oil leaks, there are none, just water from the AC running. I pop the hood where the oil t's are, no oil leak. I fire the car back up and the oil pressure reads normal now. I drive down the road some more, bam it happens again. I kill the engine do it all over again but this time I pull the gauge pod to make sure everything is fitting securely. Fire the car back up and oil pressure reads fine. Now my eyes are fixated on oil pressure so I drive trying to see if I notice any problems, I have no drive-ability issues at all. I pulled over again, it didn't happen this time but just to check something, pop the hood and give a little tug on the oil pressure wire going to the sensor and gauge thinking something may be loose, get in the car and the oil pressure is still reading fine. Pulled my dipstick just to make sure oil was there and there was, I just did an oil change on Thursday,
Just last weekend I pulled off my oil pickup and return lines to check for RTV, just trying to make sure there was none, and there wasn't.
This isn't the first time this has happened, just the first time it has happened this frequently.
Sometimes when it happens it'll just start back showing the reading again on its on before i'm able to safely pull off the road but this time since it was 1am, I was alone on the road.
I don't know if I have a bad sensor or what, any ideas?
Oh and m oil pressure reads:
~50-60psi - cold start
~50+ - cold start driving
~30 - 40 - warm and cruising
~10+ - idle at a red light - warm
I was out trying to do some datalogging and I notice my display just read all dashed lines after reading oil pressure fine before. I pulled over and cut the engine off. I look under the car for oil leaks, there are none, just water from the AC running. I pop the hood where the oil t's are, no oil leak. I fire the car back up and the oil pressure reads normal now. I drive down the road some more, bam it happens again. I kill the engine do it all over again but this time I pull the gauge pod to make sure everything is fitting securely. Fire the car back up and oil pressure reads fine. Now my eyes are fixated on oil pressure so I drive trying to see if I notice any problems, I have no drive-ability issues at all. I pulled over again, it didn't happen this time but just to check something, pop the hood and give a little tug on the oil pressure wire going to the sensor and gauge thinking something may be loose, get in the car and the oil pressure is still reading fine. Pulled my dipstick just to make sure oil was there and there was, I just did an oil change on Thursday,
Just last weekend I pulled off my oil pickup and return lines to check for RTV, just trying to make sure there was none, and there wasn't.
This isn't the first time this has happened, just the first time it has happened this frequently.
Sometimes when it happens it'll just start back showing the reading again on its on before i'm able to safely pull off the road but this time since it was 1am, I was alone on the road.
I don't know if I have a bad sensor or what, any ideas?
Oh and m oil pressure reads:
~50-60psi - cold start
~50+ - cold start driving
~30 - 40 - warm and cruising
~10+ - idle at a red light - warm
#275
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your pressures sound right to me....they are dead on what i was running...
perhaps the pins on the connectors are vibrating loose from the sending unit...try calling up aem as soon as you can and see if they will take it in for repair or contact who you got it from and see what they can do about it.
perhaps the pins on the connectors are vibrating loose from the sending unit...try calling up aem as soon as you can and see if they will take it in for repair or contact who you got it from and see what they can do about it.
#276
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I had something similar. One of the scew downs holding one of the wires vibrated off the pressure gauge and when I lost connection it was tapping the gauge to the highest pressure reading (which I would think is equivalent to '- -' on AEM).
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Can someone guide me through it, not link me to a website, but literally guide me through how to do it the right way, build the tester or a site to order one from, etc.?
Thanks in advance and yes I am a n00b
Thanks in advance and yes I am a n00b
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#278
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hmmm...i can try...you didnt understand i guess with the sites i sent ya.
pretty much what your doing is blocking off the turbo inlet with whatever plumbing pvc you can find that fill fit inside the coupling thats on you turbo inlet. then you take that plumbing fitting and drill out either one or two holes. it depends on the brass fittings you intend to use. one hole will be for a fitting that you can hook up a compressor to ( i would suggest something like the valve thats on your tire). the reason you would want a tire valve is to pressureize the turbo system without going overboard and putting 100psi on it.
the other hole in the plumbing fitting will be for a gauge, any gauge will do aslong as its a low pressure gauge. something that can read between 1-30psi. if you really wanted you could put in that hole a brass barb fitting so you could just use your boost gauge to read pressure.
youll install your plumbing fitting on your turbo intake, pressurize it, read gauge.
pretty much what your doing is blocking off the turbo inlet with whatever plumbing pvc you can find that fill fit inside the coupling thats on you turbo inlet. then you take that plumbing fitting and drill out either one or two holes. it depends on the brass fittings you intend to use. one hole will be for a fitting that you can hook up a compressor to ( i would suggest something like the valve thats on your tire). the reason you would want a tire valve is to pressureize the turbo system without going overboard and putting 100psi on it.
the other hole in the plumbing fitting will be for a gauge, any gauge will do aslong as its a low pressure gauge. something that can read between 1-30psi. if you really wanted you could put in that hole a brass barb fitting so you could just use your boost gauge to read pressure.
youll install your plumbing fitting on your turbo intake, pressurize it, read gauge.
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Originally Posted by crush02342002
hmmm...i can try...you didnt understand i guess with the sites i sent ya.
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Thanks!!
#280
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now that i think about it you wouldnt need to have a gauge, you would just leave your boost gauge as it is and read that. idk how well it would work but i figure it should be good enough.