A few turbo maintanance questions
01-22-2006 | 08:35 PM
#22
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Winter tuning as I undestand is just by taking your car to a dyno and they I think they change the fuel maps to compensate the colder weather for starting the car and stuff. I believe thats what someone i know said with their turbo rsx. Correct me if iam wrong. I think thats why the unichip is good in that regard as in that it can be switched between two maps and also that the emanage feeds the ecu and emanage cant compensate for weather changes as the unichip is after the ecu and the ecu compensates for the weather on its own.
01-23-2006 | 02:22 AM
#25
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Viper 791xv 
Used it on my turbo setup. Awesome unit. Never had any problems. I spent about $500 installed also with 530t, 520t, 556u. Mine is actually for sale now
. Also if you're interested in my custom ZPI stage 1, I'm sure we could work something out. Everyone else pretty summed up good tips. Check oil levels, check for leaks, replace oil regularly, check gaskets and lines, run a few min. before using, run a few min. after use, etc.
Used it on my turbo setup. Awesome unit. Never had any problems. I spent about $500 installed also with 530t, 520t, 556u. Mine is actually for sale now
. Also if you're interested in my custom ZPI stage 1, I'm sure we could work something out. Everyone else pretty summed up good tips. Check oil levels, check for leaks, replace oil regularly, check gaskets and lines, run a few min. before using, run a few min. after use, etc.
01-23-2006 | 01:39 PM
#26
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From: Fortress of ScioNRG
Originally Posted by Typhoon
How much does the viper alram cost? How long do people usually idle the car for to let the turbo slow down? and another two 
- When you get gauges for your car is there a difference in installation between the digital ones and the normal ones?
and since motor mounts reduce engine vibration would that potentialy help the turbo setup?
- When you get gauges for your car is there a difference in installation between the digital ones and the normal ones?and since motor mounts reduce engine vibration would that potentialy help the turbo setup?
1. letting the car idle is not to let the turbo slow down....it is to let it cool down.
2. install prices should be about the same for either gauges.
3. the engine dampers purpose is to reduce the amount of engine rocking in the engine bay. if the motor torques less in the engine bay, the power can get to the ground better.
01-23-2006 | 04:28 PM
#27
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^^^^This is correct.
Turbo cool down is not nearly the issue it once used to be with the use of synthetic oil (turbo people shoudl be running this). Oil coking in the bearings was the issue.
The motor mounts do help stop engine movement, but vibrations can be increased to the passenger cabin. Get really stiff mounts and your teeth will rattle.
Engine damper or stiffer mounts prevent the engine from moving 8 to 10 inches on a launch. This movement reduces power transfer to the wheels.
Turbo cool down is not nearly the issue it once used to be with the use of synthetic oil (turbo people shoudl be running this). Oil coking in the bearings was the issue.
The motor mounts do help stop engine movement, but vibrations can be increased to the passenger cabin. Get really stiff mounts and your teeth will rattle.
Engine damper or stiffer mounts prevent the engine from moving 8 to 10 inches on a launch. This movement reduces power transfer to the wheels.
01-23-2006 | 08:33 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by x_rayted711
^^^ Good idea. I never thought of it but there is a lot of extra weight there and with the road vibrations and such, these parts can come loose over time.
And oil doesn't 'cool' the turbo as stated above. It simply lubricates it. I would deffinitely go synthetic with the oil. One of the biggest problems with turbos is that the oil "cokes". This is when the bearings are hot and the oil literally burns to the bearings. To avoid this, synthetic is a big one. Synthetic also has a higher viscosity rating and a higher tolerance to 'coking'.
Another is, as the OP mentioned, to let the car idle a minute or two 1. Before driving somewhere, and 2. After driving somewhere. What happens is the turbo is spinning at an EXTREMELY high RPM ( 130,000 RPM and up). If you shut the engine off, you also shut the oil supply off. This allows for the uncirculating oil around the bearings to burn to the bearings and in turn causes the 'coking'. If you allow the turbo to slow down by letting the car idle for a minute before shutting it off, then this had a lot less chance of happening because you are keeping the oil flow going around the bearings. So make sure you give yourself an extra couple minutes in the morning or wherever you go...It'll save the turbo in the long run. Oil changes around the 2500-3000 mile range can't hurt, but I wouldn't go too much past 3000 miles.
And oil doesn't 'cool' the turbo as stated above. It simply lubricates it. I would deffinitely go synthetic with the oil. One of the biggest problems with turbos is that the oil "cokes". This is when the bearings are hot and the oil literally burns to the bearings. To avoid this, synthetic is a big one. Synthetic also has a higher viscosity rating and a higher tolerance to 'coking'.
Another is, as the OP mentioned, to let the car idle a minute or two 1. Before driving somewhere, and 2. After driving somewhere. What happens is the turbo is spinning at an EXTREMELY high RPM ( 130,000 RPM and up). If you shut the engine off, you also shut the oil supply off. This allows for the uncirculating oil around the bearings to burn to the bearings and in turn causes the 'coking'. If you allow the turbo to slow down by letting the car idle for a minute before shutting it off, then this had a lot less chance of happening because you are keeping the oil flow going around the bearings. So make sure you give yourself an extra couple minutes in the morning or wherever you go...It'll save the turbo in the long run. Oil changes around the 2500-3000 mile range can't hurt, but I wouldn't go too much past 3000 miles.
Subaru actually has a rather ingenius system on the WRX. The turbo system is coolant cooled, but there is a second coolant reservoir that sits higher than the turbo and main coolant reservoir. Thus, as long as the turbo is hotter than the coolant, the top reservoir keeps drawing the denser cold coolant through the turbo until the temperatures equalize. So there is no use for a turbo timer, because even after the car is shutdown, the turbo system continues to cool itself.
01-23-2006 | 08:48 PM
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^^^Ummmthats pretty much what i said...other than me being incorrect on the 'cooling/spinning' part. I don't believe that turbos are 'oil cooled'. I will look it up in a few. I didn't mean that the turbo continued to spin at high rpm after the car slows...I should have clarified myself.
Good knowledge though!
OK...just looked it up....You are correct on the oil cooled turbos. Aparantly some are oil/water cooled...the oil cooling the bearing area and the water cools the housing. Great info...Learn something new everyday!
Good knowledge though!
OK...just looked it up....You are correct on the oil cooled turbos. Aparantly some are oil/water cooled...the oil cooling the bearing area and the water cools the housing. Great info...Learn something new everyday!
01-23-2006 | 09:07 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by x_rayted711
^^^Ummmthats pretty much what i said...other than me being incorrect on the 'cooling/spinning' part. I don't believe that turbos are 'oil cooled'. I will look it up in a few. I didn't mean that the turbo continued to spin at high rpm after the car slows...I should have clarified myself.
Good knowledge though!
OK...just looked it up....You are correct on the oil cooled turbos. Aparantly some are oil/water cooled...the oil cooling the bearing area and the water cools the housing. Great info...Learn something new everyday!
Good knowledge though!
OK...just looked it up....You are correct on the oil cooled turbos. Aparantly some are oil/water cooled...the oil cooling the bearing area and the water cools the housing. Great info...Learn something new everyday!
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