Finally Boosted!!!... Big Thanks to SL... Update and Dyno Pg. 117
04-16-2010, 02:52 AM
#2302
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You don't actually need to replace the rear brakes and having a 4 pot caliper up front should be more than enough stopping power. The reason you would lose the rear parking brake is because you have to remove it completely if you change out the rear hub. The parking brake is like a drum setup that is inside the rear disc brake (I think, I have never actually messed with it). All kits for the Scion are front brake kits only except the Powerslot rotor upgrade. I would love to see how those generic brakes perform, I wanted to upgrade to them but the lack of money right now is preventing me.
It isn't a life or death situation to have some compressor surge, but it isn't good either. The only BOV I have seen (or read about) that can handle low boost well is the Synapse BOV.
It isn't a life or death situation to have some compressor surge, but it isn't good either. The only BOV I have seen (or read about) that can handle low boost well is the Synapse BOV.
04-16-2010, 02:56 AM
#2305
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The bov goes off then that fluttering you hear afterwards is coming out of the intake. It only does that on low boost but when i'm boosting at like 6-7psi the bov goes off normally
04-16-2010, 02:58 AM
#2306
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04-16-2010, 02:59 AM
#2307
04-16-2010, 04:51 AM
#2308
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Thanks for the vid. Now once the leaks are found, if any, how do you take care of them. Especially the the major leak by on the compressor housing. Also is there another way to look for leaks without the use of a compressor seeing as though i dont have one nor have access to one.
04-16-2010, 12:52 PM
#2310
dont do this with the car running cause if there is a leak the car may suck in the soapy water...so yeah not good..lol
you can use a tire inflator.
some leaks you can just tighten t-bolt clamps or wormdrive clamps, others you may need to replace couplers or vac line.
as for the comp housing you want to mark the position of the housing, pull the housing off and smear a light amount of rtv (red) around the area the back plate meets the housing. also one of the bolts holes on the comp housing is drilled all the way through so when putting everything back togather you want to get some teflon tape on that bolt. (hint: that bolt im talking about is the one located closest to the comp outlet)
you can use a tire inflator.
some leaks you can just tighten t-bolt clamps or wormdrive clamps, others you may need to replace couplers or vac line.
as for the comp housing you want to mark the position of the housing, pull the housing off and smear a light amount of rtv (red) around the area the back plate meets the housing. also one of the bolts holes on the comp housing is drilled all the way through so when putting everything back togather you want to get some teflon tape on that bolt. (hint: that bolt im talking about is the one located closest to the comp outlet)
Last edited by crush02342002; 04-16-2010 at 12:58 PM.
04-16-2010, 01:11 PM
#2311
btw the compressor i used in the vid was only $140 at harbor freight, you could even get away with a cheaper pancake compressor...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...=521&pricetype=
now im ____ed, the one i have they lowered the price to $99....luls
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...=521&pricetype=
now im ____ed, the one i have they lowered the price to $99....luls
04-16-2010, 02:05 PM
#2312
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btw the compressor i used in the vid was only $140 at harbor freight, you could even get away with a cheaper pancake compressor...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...=521&pricetype=
now im ____ed, the one i have they lowered the price to $99....luls
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...=521&pricetype=
now im ____ed, the one i have they lowered the price to $99....luls
04-16-2010, 03:13 PM
#2316
it may be time to swap out bov's, the hks isnt the greatest in the world and its getting quit a few miles on it. (though in my exp the hks ssqv has been fairly decent for what it is). Ill say this though i would choose hks over greddy when it comes to bov's, iv done plenty of boost leak tests on cars that used both and everytime the hks sealed while the greddy had a small leak from the valve. Turboxs i wouldnt ____ in their direction, Iv only tested one of them (RFL bov) and that thing leaked real bad from the valve.
now you seen in the vid the hks leaked from the base, that would prolly be due to whoever installed it. I checked many many times on that car to make sure the c-clip was fully seated, so I assume its the o-ring that sits at the base was damaged during installation.
now you seen in the vid the hks leaked from the base, that would prolly be due to whoever installed it. I checked many many times on that car to make sure the c-clip was fully seated, so I assume its the o-ring that sits at the base was damaged during installation.
04-16-2010, 03:54 PM
#2317
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it may be time to swap out bov's, the hks isnt the greatest in the world and its getting quit a few miles on it. (though in my exp the hks ssqv has been fairly decent for what it is). Ill say this though i would choose hks over greddy when it comes to bov's, iv done plenty of boost leak tests on cars that used both and everytime the hks sealed while the greddy had a small leak from the valve. Turboxs i wouldnt ____ in their direction, Iv only tested one of them (RFL bov) and that thing leaked real bad from the valve.
now you seen in the vid the hks leaked from the base, that would prolly be due to whoever installed it. I checked many many times on that car to make sure the c-clip was fully seated, so I assume its the o-ring that sits at the base was damaged during installation.
now you seen in the vid the hks leaked from the base, that would prolly be due to whoever installed it. I checked many many times on that car to make sure the c-clip was fully seated, so I assume its the o-ring that sits at the base was damaged during installation.
Hey Chris how can i tell if the turbosmart boost controller is working. I have it wired up to a switch basically the way you sent it and i'm getting power from a fused wire coming from the fuse panel underneath the dash. When i flick the switch on i hear a tick sound in the boost controller. Does that mean it's on?
I just want to make sure i have everything in order before i make that trip to ptuning next week.
04-16-2010, 04:01 PM
#2319