crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

well iv double checked my connections with a meter and everything is good to go, im getting voltage on the white wire that varies between 0-4.55 volts so thats normal. the only thing i can think of is the pin on the fic isnt making good contact with the receptical on the harness. Ima switch it out and see if that fixes it.

nlataille18

i really hope that does it. i'm goin to be getting my car out of the snow and into my garage within the next couple weeks. Cant wait to try this!

nlataille18

anything new happening with this. my car is still covered in snow, and it keeps coming so i won't be working on this anytime soon....

hmflinttc

chris did you have any success with switching that connection out? im anxious to try this

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

iv already tried everything i can think of to no avail, ther are a couple of people that have done this on thier fic but havnt posted yet.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

well ladies and gentlemen i got back from the tuners and guess what.......i can now log my afr's.......on the setup window and in the box labeled 02 thers a check box that is labeled "View as AFR" click on that and bam it works.......i cant beleave it was something that retarded.....ill do a better write up later.

nlataille18

Nice! :-)

gompka

iTrader: (5)

great info, data logging is essential to all of us who want to street tune. I was bored yesterday and I came across a usb data logger, logs info onto any usb drive, am trying to find out if you need a microprocessor with it or not. If not then its a $35 data logger, pop your thumb drive in and log as much as you want without having the laptop in your car!


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crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

damnit i jumped the gun.......while i can view my afr's on a laptop while its hooked up to the fic, the fic just will not log my uego.......ill try and do computer logging and see if it will log it that way.

Carlanga

chris, did u get the car done at SGP? I found another place called FWD Performance Inc. They specialize in Dodge's though, but the woman that runs the shop told me they do deal with the FIC. She was cool though and she had the 90 degree coupler with the long legs that I needed. Just need to cut and install.

Is ur car feeling better? Tell me!!!

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

for the most part its freakin awsome.......boost comes on much quicker and the torque is just nasty (297hp 301tq).....i mean tire shredding nasty......cant wait to get those drag radials on and take it to the track......however im still haveing a slight stuter between 4000-4500 rpms@wot that smoothes out as the car gets warmer (this has been a problem for a while, thought it was my boost controller at first). still trying to pin point the problem but you should most deff give sgp a shot....mark is one crazy ars guy but a great tuner imho.

Carlanga

cool, I'm happy for ya bro. I'm ready for it man, can't wait to install the coupler and the boost controller before the tune. They're both easy anyways, we need to do an install day. Let me know.

Carlanga

I forgot to mention that ever since I fixed the exhaust leak, I'm having a small fluctuatin with the AFR's whenever I'm going to a stop and press the clutch in. It'll go lean as normal and then really rich for about two secs and back to not soo lean 'till it levels out to 14.9. It's very annoying now that I have the motor mounts cuz I can really feel it.

I'm sure it can be fixed with a good tune but, what about the 3 inch intake? Could that be it or is it the intake issue related with just harder to tune the car up?

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

im 99.999% sure its because your venting to atmosphere with your bov....believe it or not your bov will open even though your not coming out of boost......i found this out while installing with my cousin. i reved the engine in neutral (slight rev) and had him place his hand by the bov......he said he felt air coming out of the bov, so even though i wasn't in boost the sudden rev and letting off allowed for more vacuum which in turn opened the bov for a short second....when this happens the maf kinda goes a little weired on ya so thats why that bouncing in afr's happens, its even more pronounced when going into a heavy load and coming to a sudden stop. every time i do a burn out at the track i get it pretty bad but because of a good tune (let me rephrase that "decent tune") it doesn't die on me but has a rough idle for a second. whats happening is while im building boost i come to a sudden stop which makes the bov release quit a bit of air, well this air has already been metered by the maf and the ecu has already sent the extra fuel to meet that air in the combustion chamber. long story short that air never made it to the engine, instead it was released and the fuel is still being sent into the combustion chamber.....this leads to a sudden rich condition that makes the car idle real funky. better tuning will help but will not get rid of it 100%, mine has gotten better since tune but i haven't had it at the track just yet to really test this tune out.

ps if this stuff doesnt make since i blame captain morgan for that, ima little wasted at the moment......bwaaahahahahahaha

Carlanga

lol thanks man, it does makes sense. I just didn't know it still opens up when in vacuum. I could understand when getting off of boost, but not the other way around. I guess if I get tired of it I could always recirc the bov. The adapter is only like $12 anyways. Thanks man!!

p.s. U neeeed to pm me with the details about your tune with SGP. Would u mind going whenever I decide to go? :-)

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

id love to go........anytime, anywhere man just say the word.

id venture to say anytime you boost gauge says 0 and you let off the throttle chances are your bov opened, even if you didn't quit reach 0 it very well could have opened. again it is part of the tuning that will make it better or worse but never will it go away. iv even heard of people recirculating their bov still have a slight jump in afr's after letting off the throttle. if this is true id say that it is because its a second too late for the air to reach the combustion chamber in order to cure the problem. boost and maf sensor don't really like each other on our cars, its a vicious cycle....lol

another way of trying to combat this problem people have run a blow through maf set up. this is still problematic for most people but is still a chance. P-tuning has been investigating this for quit some time now so they should be the first guys to talk to about doing something like that.

another option is to delete the maf altogether with a standalone engine management.....if I'm not mistaken ace83 did this, talk to him about it sometime.

for me though i just deal with it, while its anoying the car doesnt die on me so im happy.

jsg93085

there is also a way to spoof the maf signal with the f/ic (clamping the voltage signal to the ECU).

the AEM forums go into this in detail, but its more effective if you have the voltage numbers the maf sends when under completely N/A and not using numbers post boost...

Carlanga

I have been playing around with the maf voltage, the issue is that I have 3inch piping and it will not be the same numbers. I just think it's gonna take me some time 'till I can find the sweet spot for each column.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

this issue will happen regardless of voltage clamp, thats not to say that you could maybe ease the problem a bit with the map but i have my doubts though.

Carlanga

at first when I installed the turbo, I had a nasty exhaust leak. Back then I had no issues whatsoever, but ever since I got it fixed it has been a different story. I'm possitive there might be a way to at least ease the issue a bit.