Gompka build - Running great!
01-13-2010, 07:49 PM
#62
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01-30-2010, 03:39 PM
#65
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Well lets hope slow and steady wins the race, because thats the pace for the build so far lol. I have been busy lately and I haven't had time to work on the car much. Balance shaft oil hole is threaded and plugged. Just ordered an act 6 puck and ss clutch line from dezod. So along with the speedsource extended slave cylinder pushrod and the dezod goodies the clutch is solid. Hopefully, next weekend the engine is going back together.
02-02-2010, 04:23 AM
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02-02-2010, 04:58 AM
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Paul do you guys go with the stock/wiseco specs on bearings clearances and piston ring gap? I've heard people building a bit looser than spec for forced induction apps?
I bought a book "The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting: Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding" and have been reading it. Along with watching a nice 3-part tutorial a few times. Now i need to get my hands on a bore gauge and I'll have everything I need to get this build going.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpy_By5aIxM
I bought a book "The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting: Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding" and have been reading it. Along with watching a nice 3-part tutorial a few times. Now i need to get my hands on a bore gauge and I'll have everything I need to get this build going.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpy_By5aIxM
02-02-2010, 03:46 PM
#73
lol. when u expecting to have the build done? i might have to make a trip up north to check it out when its done
02-02-2010, 06:16 PM
#74
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I use a .006" ring gap multiplier when I build most any forced induction engine. CP recommends a .006 gap so I run with it I have at least a hundred built engines running around the country with no mechanical issues. I tend to ask for a slightly larger piston to wall clearance than wiseco asks for because during tear downs you can see evidence of skirt wear and scuffing which is an indication of too little clearance. I like .004-.0045 depending on the application and the expected boost level.
Top ring = Bore x .006"
Second ring = Top ring + .004"
As for bearing clearances. I tend to stick to the stock clearances and err on the high side of the clearance. I find this works well If I am concerned with turning 10000 rpm then I loosen them up but only by a thousandth or so. The most important thing is running the best oil you can and not starving the engine for even a second. Aeration will damage bearings fast.
Top ring = Bore x .006"
Second ring = Top ring + .004"
As for bearing clearances. I tend to stick to the stock clearances and err on the high side of the clearance. I find this works well If I am concerned with turning 10000 rpm then I loosen them up but only by a thousandth or so. The most important thing is running the best oil you can and not starving the engine for even a second. Aeration will damage bearings fast.
02-03-2010, 06:18 AM
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Your guess is as good as mine lol. If dezod would stop coming out with things I want/need it might get done soon. I am checking on funds and trying to decide whether i want to do the return fuel system now or later.
02-04-2010, 10:10 PM
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Cant forget the reference materials, can't hurt to read up some more before I dive into things, since I have never done it before. Will also have a friend helping out who has built a hot rods.
02-05-2010, 03:04 AM
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