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Old 06-21-2010, 03:04 AM
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Ok so had a weird idle problem car was going real rich and dying, when I came to a stop light. Ended up being my MAF was too close to the turbo. Got it back and it ran fine for a week or so. Last night started acting funny again, high fluctuating idle going lean then dying. Having a hard time restarting.

Found out the shop forgot to put a bolt back in one of my coils and the intake was loose. Fixed that reset ecu still had a hard time idling. Went and fabbed some custom IC piping for my buddies rx7, car sat about 7 hours. Came back tried it, it started idled fine, alittle fluctuation comming out of boost but nothing too weird. Drove fine hit boost a few times, pulled into a gas station and got code p0300 (random misfire) not a big deal I get them at idle sometimes, but I also had p0012.

I know this is the resistor mod thing, but my car has been fine with boost since december. Now IDK if my Boomslang harness has it or not.

If it does and I fried the resistor ill just change it, but could the resistor cause my idle problems and where is the resistor located?

Last edited by Blue_TC_Man; 06-21-2010 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 06-21-2010, 05:51 AM
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just check it to see if it has a cut on one of the lines and pull the tape back unless it is heat shrinked. if not, send us a pic of the harness on here and get pics of both sides.
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:11 PM
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I assume since you have the resistor mod that you are running an FIC. What does your laptop say when it is doing this? Does the presssures fluctuate a lot? If so, you may have the same problem I do. I had to send everything to AEM and they are checking the map sensors. Do you have water meth? and where do you have your vacuum lines ran?

also the resistor mod shouldn't affect idle to my knowledge. It throws a cel and will make it stutter entering boost. u should do the resistor mod but it would be throwing a p0016 if this was the problem. it's cheap and easy but won't solve your idle

I went to stock injectors and stock ecu to make sure f/ic was my problem and car is fine.

Last edited by WalkaWalka; 06-22-2010 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:08 PM
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idk if it has the resistor mod or not. I just threw a p0012 recently so idk whats up. I am going to check the map sensor today or tomorrow when I get time
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:16 PM
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How are your vacuum lines ran? Are they on the same as your wastegate?
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:44 PM
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yeah they go from the TB line straight to the wastegate with three t's one for boost gauge, one for BOV, and one for FiC
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:53 PM
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One thing I changed is I put my water meth and fic on the brake booster line courtesy advice d_brummet. I kept the bov and wastegate on the tb. I guess it's a common problem to get moisture in your internal map on the f/ic via moisture from wastegate and or bov. do you spray water/meth?

I guess this is all depending on whether or not your map sensor is the issue. All I know for sure is with my car idling, the pressure would spike and fall all the way up to 28-30 psia and as low as 2 psia on the fic. also the tps would fluctuate too but that wouldn't affect the psia. I'm interested in what happens as this is my same problem I've been dealing with for a while.
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:24 PM
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I have sort of the same problem. It can be so many things it's not even funny. It can be vacuum leak,mitt van be your tune that's the ecu learned itself and saw you were adjusting it, it can be your TB going out. It can be the vsf or whatever it's called that has to do with the vacuum. Try spraying some brake cleaner around your vacuum lines and anything that has vacuum involved and see if your idles jumps if it does that means you have a vacuum leak. how long have you had that tune?
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Old 06-22-2010, 05:37 PM
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TB going out (you mean the drive by wire?)?? be the tune (tune wouldn't affect the idle. tune is under boost and no boost is straight numbers from stock ecu)?? just for the sake of argument I went out and disconnected my vacuum and let it go to atmosphere and it idled fine. Stock ecu doesn't even read mani pressure. I guess it could have a huge leak and it thought it was at atmosphere but that wouldn't be intermittent.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by WalkaWalka
TB going out (you mean the drive by wire?)?? be the tune (tune wouldn't affect the idle. tune is under boost and no boost is straight numbers from stock ecu)?? just for the sake of argument I went out and disconnected my vacuum and let it go to atmosphere and it idled fine. Stock ecu doesn't even read mani pressure. I guess it could have a huge leak and it thought it was at atmosphere but that wouldn't be intermittent.
Are you serious?yes throttle body going out. Drive by wire is what the throttle is lol. And are you serious saying tune doesn't affect idle only on boost?lol since it idled fine with the vacuum disconnected from the bov you can adjust your tune unless you bov is leaking. Or unless you an adjust the bov.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:39 PM
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I'm saying your first two ideas are garbage and don't understand how an engine works. Is that easier to understand? if his map is off that bad it wouldn't have ran for squat before. temp doesn't change THAT much as far as driveability. I don't know what your tune looks like but my fuel map is -35 to -38 across the board until going into boost. that means I'm only adjust the stock ecu's signals a max of 3 % and going lean pre boost on purpose. his car should still run. TB going out? maybe it's the kanooter valve getting stuck wide open tell me how open your butterfly is at idle. please tell me. last time I checked they are closed and if it was stuck open it would be lean and the rpms would rise until it died.

People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.

yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WalkaWalka
I'm saying your first two ideas are garbage and don't understand how an engine works. Is that easier to understand? if his map is off that bad it wouldn't have ran for squat before. temp doesn't change THAT much as far as driveability. I don't know what your tune looks like but my fuel map is -35 to -38 across the board until going into boost. that means I'm only adjust the stock ecu's signals a max of 3 % and going lean pre boost on purpose. his car should still run. TB going out? maybe it's the kanooter valve getting stuck wide open tell me how open your butterfly is at idle. please tell me. last time I checked they are closed and if it was stuck open it would be lean and the rpms would rise until it died.

People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.

yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
What does ase certified have to do with tuning. Moron. And yes if you tune our car on a piggyback and the fiel trims aren't as close to 0 as possible eventually the stock ecu will notice the piggyback and try to alter you moron again! And the tb plate is not fully closed at idle smart guy. Oh and by the way intelligent person I had the same problems as before.
Oh wait idiot that has ase certifications on here think he/they know more cause they read a book on changing the oil lmao. There's more people on here that are not ase certified that know more then the so called ase certified mechanics. So please keep your ignorant comments to yourself. Wasthat easier to understand?
And by the way please let me know where you go your certification from so I can go pay for mines. Cause it must be that easy.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:14 PM
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Blue Tc like I said before try out what I had mentioned. It could be various things. Let us know if you figure it out. Cause I know your not the only one that have had problems with your idle.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:41 PM
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being certified at a facility with a chassis dyno means I've spent more time on one than you. for conversation purposes that is the closed position, moron. Just because the car doesn't have an IAC valve doesn't mean the plate is even open enough for you fit your little wenis in there. They are designed to seep air around the plate at idle, that's why you have to make sure there's no carbon build up on there. What's sad is you have 3k + posts, really dude? get a life. I'd imagine trying to match wits with a post ***** like you is about like beating my head against the wall. Enjoy your cyberlife, I'll stick to getting more education and not dealing with the true ignorant people such as yourself who have never actually gotten any real education dealing with vehicles.

also your car looks ___ with that hood
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by WalkaWalka
being certified at a facility with a chassis dyno means I've spent more time on one than you. for conversation purposes that is the closed position, moron. Just because the car doesn't have an IAC valve doesn't mean the plate is even open enough for you fit your little wenis in there. They are designed to seep air around the plate at idle, that's why you have to make sure there's no carbon build up on there. What's sad is you have 3k + posts, really dude? get a life. I'd imagine trying to match wits with a post ***** like you is about like beating my head against the wall. Enjoy your cyberlife, I'll stick to getting more education and not dealing with the true ignorant people such as yourself who have never actually gotten any real education dealing with vehicles.

also your car looks ___ with that hood
Lol see did I hurt the little baby. Lol your right my ***** doesn't fit in the lil opening of the plate. Maybe yours does and that's sad. Lol ase certified is education? Are you serious you don't even need a diploma for that lmao. Damn I didn't even know I had that Many post but thanks for the information. Lol so cause I have post on here means I have no life lmao ok bud go study your oil change manuals and think it's a education poor guy. Lol ye my car looks ugly with a carbon fiber hood. Your right silly me. So since you work in a dyno facility your ase ertified for timig is why your dying hahahaha stfu you fail at life. Oh no wait you don't case yor ase certified. What a idiot. Oh no I dot have education cause I'm not ase certified hahahhaaha. Lol my cyberlife is great that's How I met your mom. Nice woman just a tad over weight. Please stfu already ad let blue_Tc_man have his thread back. I'm done talking to you cause obviously your to ignorant.
Oh by the way you said the tb is closed at idle but then you say It seeps air aroud the plate. Stfu it stays open a little bit cause there is little screw on the tb that stops the spring inside the tb from closing the plate all the way moron. lmao oh the irony.
Waiting for your funny lame insults.
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:15 PM
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Oh walkawalka thanks for making my day go by faster at work.
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:19 PM
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Your right so ugly. Silly me.
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:39 PM
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this could get epic...
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by brett561tc
this could get epic...
Indeed. Especially if it was in person.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:41 AM
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this is great - and I thought people hated me lol
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