Help
#1
Help
Ok so had a weird idle problem car was going real rich and dying, when I came to a stop light. Ended up being my MAF was too close to the turbo. Got it back and it ran fine for a week or so. Last night started acting funny again, high fluctuating idle going lean then dying. Having a hard time restarting.
Found out the shop forgot to put a bolt back in one of my coils and the intake was loose. Fixed that reset ecu still had a hard time idling. Went and fabbed some custom IC piping for my buddies rx7, car sat about 7 hours. Came back tried it, it started idled fine, alittle fluctuation comming out of boost but nothing too weird. Drove fine hit boost a few times, pulled into a gas station and got code p0300 (random misfire) not a big deal I get them at idle sometimes, but I also had p0012.
I know this is the resistor mod thing, but my car has been fine with boost since december. Now IDK if my Boomslang harness has it or not.
If it does and I fried the resistor ill just change it, but could the resistor cause my idle problems and where is the resistor located?
Found out the shop forgot to put a bolt back in one of my coils and the intake was loose. Fixed that reset ecu still had a hard time idling. Went and fabbed some custom IC piping for my buddies rx7, car sat about 7 hours. Came back tried it, it started idled fine, alittle fluctuation comming out of boost but nothing too weird. Drove fine hit boost a few times, pulled into a gas station and got code p0300 (random misfire) not a big deal I get them at idle sometimes, but I also had p0012.
I know this is the resistor mod thing, but my car has been fine with boost since december. Now IDK if my Boomslang harness has it or not.
If it does and I fried the resistor ill just change it, but could the resistor cause my idle problems and where is the resistor located?
Last edited by Blue_TC_Man; 06-21-2010 at 03:49 AM.
#3
I assume since you have the resistor mod that you are running an FIC. What does your laptop say when it is doing this? Does the presssures fluctuate a lot? If so, you may have the same problem I do. I had to send everything to AEM and they are checking the map sensors. Do you have water meth? and where do you have your vacuum lines ran?
also the resistor mod shouldn't affect idle to my knowledge. It throws a cel and will make it stutter entering boost. u should do the resistor mod but it would be throwing a p0016 if this was the problem. it's cheap and easy but won't solve your idle
I went to stock injectors and stock ecu to make sure f/ic was my problem and car is fine.
also the resistor mod shouldn't affect idle to my knowledge. It throws a cel and will make it stutter entering boost. u should do the resistor mod but it would be throwing a p0016 if this was the problem. it's cheap and easy but won't solve your idle
I went to stock injectors and stock ecu to make sure f/ic was my problem and car is fine.
Last edited by WalkaWalka; 06-22-2010 at 01:16 PM.
#7
One thing I changed is I put my water meth and fic on the brake booster line courtesy advice d_brummet. I kept the bov and wastegate on the tb. I guess it's a common problem to get moisture in your internal map on the f/ic via moisture from wastegate and or bov. do you spray water/meth?
I guess this is all depending on whether or not your map sensor is the issue. All I know for sure is with my car idling, the pressure would spike and fall all the way up to 28-30 psia and as low as 2 psia on the fic. also the tps would fluctuate too but that wouldn't affect the psia. I'm interested in what happens as this is my same problem I've been dealing with for a while.
I guess this is all depending on whether or not your map sensor is the issue. All I know for sure is with my car idling, the pressure would spike and fall all the way up to 28-30 psia and as low as 2 psia on the fic. also the tps would fluctuate too but that wouldn't affect the psia. I'm interested in what happens as this is my same problem I've been dealing with for a while.
#8
I have sort of the same problem. It can be so many things it's not even funny. It can be vacuum leak,mitt van be your tune that's the ecu learned itself and saw you were adjusting it, it can be your TB going out. It can be the vsf or whatever it's called that has to do with the vacuum. Try spraying some brake cleaner around your vacuum lines and anything that has vacuum involved and see if your idles jumps if it does that means you have a vacuum leak. how long have you had that tune?
#9
TB going out (you mean the drive by wire?)?? be the tune (tune wouldn't affect the idle. tune is under boost and no boost is straight numbers from stock ecu)?? just for the sake of argument I went out and disconnected my vacuum and let it go to atmosphere and it idled fine. Stock ecu doesn't even read mani pressure. I guess it could have a huge leak and it thought it was at atmosphere but that wouldn't be intermittent.
#10
TB going out (you mean the drive by wire?)?? be the tune (tune wouldn't affect the idle. tune is under boost and no boost is straight numbers from stock ecu)?? just for the sake of argument I went out and disconnected my vacuum and let it go to atmosphere and it idled fine. Stock ecu doesn't even read mani pressure. I guess it could have a huge leak and it thought it was at atmosphere but that wouldn't be intermittent.
#11
I'm saying your first two ideas are garbage and don't understand how an engine works. Is that easier to understand? if his map is off that bad it wouldn't have ran for squat before. temp doesn't change THAT much as far as driveability. I don't know what your tune looks like but my fuel map is -35 to -38 across the board until going into boost. that means I'm only adjust the stock ecu's signals a max of 3 % and going lean pre boost on purpose. his car should still run. TB going out? maybe it's the kanooter valve getting stuck wide open tell me how open your butterfly is at idle. please tell me. last time I checked they are closed and if it was stuck open it would be lean and the rpms would rise until it died.
People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.
yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.
yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
#12
I'm saying your first two ideas are garbage and don't understand how an engine works. Is that easier to understand? if his map is off that bad it wouldn't have ran for squat before. temp doesn't change THAT much as far as driveability. I don't know what your tune looks like but my fuel map is -35 to -38 across the board until going into boost. that means I'm only adjust the stock ecu's signals a max of 3 % and going lean pre boost on purpose. his car should still run. TB going out? maybe it's the kanooter valve getting stuck wide open tell me how open your butterfly is at idle. please tell me. last time I checked they are closed and if it was stuck open it would be lean and the rpms would rise until it died.
People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.
yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
People on here don't think they just throw out random guesses and think since they post more than other people they have legitimate thoughts.
yes I am ASE certified engine rebuild, repair, and driveability. try setting the maf clamp to 4.3 volts and zeroing out the maf map. guarantee the car will idle better and drive with some hiccups (Don't go into boost with your fic not right, it won't be adjusting the fuel right and will still dump every now and then when the map sensor is saying boost but it will keep running)
Oh wait idiot that has ase certifications on here think he/they know more cause they read a book on changing the oil lmao. There's more people on here that are not ase certified that know more then the so called ase certified mechanics. So please keep your ignorant comments to yourself. Wasthat easier to understand?
And by the way please let me know where you go your certification from so I can go pay for mines. Cause it must be that easy.
#14
being certified at a facility with a chassis dyno means I've spent more time on one than you. for conversation purposes that is the closed position, moron. Just because the car doesn't have an IAC valve doesn't mean the plate is even open enough for you fit your little wenis in there. They are designed to seep air around the plate at idle, that's why you have to make sure there's no carbon build up on there. What's sad is you have 3k + posts, really dude? get a life. I'd imagine trying to match wits with a post ***** like you is about like beating my head against the wall. Enjoy your cyberlife, I'll stick to getting more education and not dealing with the true ignorant people such as yourself who have never actually gotten any real education dealing with vehicles.
also your car looks ___ with that hood
also your car looks ___ with that hood
#15
being certified at a facility with a chassis dyno means I've spent more time on one than you. for conversation purposes that is the closed position, moron. Just because the car doesn't have an IAC valve doesn't mean the plate is even open enough for you fit your little wenis in there. They are designed to seep air around the plate at idle, that's why you have to make sure there's no carbon build up on there. What's sad is you have 3k + posts, really dude? get a life. I'd imagine trying to match wits with a post ***** like you is about like beating my head against the wall. Enjoy your cyberlife, I'll stick to getting more education and not dealing with the true ignorant people such as yourself who have never actually gotten any real education dealing with vehicles.
also your car looks ___ with that hood
also your car looks ___ with that hood
Oh by the way you said the tb is closed at idle but then you say It seeps air aroud the plate. Stfu it stays open a little bit cause there is little screw on the tb that stops the spring inside the tb from closing the plate all the way moron. lmao oh the irony.
Waiting for your funny lame insults.