I just Picked up my car from the shop were i had them rebuild the motor with pauter rods and je pistons, ect... im running the greddy turbo kit....i drove it around for the inital 500mile break in not goin over 50-55mph and it ran perfect, no problems at all the A/F guage sat rite at 14.9 the whole time of driving....on my way home with aprox. 600miles on the car cruising down the interstate at 65mph the car started sputtering and backfiring as if not gettin any gas the A/F shot and stayed around the 16-17 area.....after pulling over and checking everything it looked fine i restarted and it ran fine the rest of the way....NOW it seems to be doin the same thing almost every time i drive the car and especially if i think about gettin it close to boost range, iv got about 750miles on it now...iv thought that maybe i had water or trash in the gas, i put a fuel system cleaner additive in the gas but its still doin it, i found out that the fuel filter is made into the fuel pump so to check that i would have to buy a new pump but i wanted to ask if anyone esle has had this problem b4 or may know of something else it could be that im not thinking of.....ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED b4 i screw something up majorly!!!!!!!!!!! THNX

 

exhaust leak??

 

What are the afr's on boost? Thats whats most important. My afr's bounce around during daily driving while in vac. I'd say thats normal.

What are you using for tuning? Did you have it retuned after the engine was built?

 

not that i know of...but i havnt checked, it will run like a charm if i baby it and dont shift it over 2500prms most of the time it may sputter or give a backfire or skip alil but nothin as bad as wen i take it over 3000prms or into any boost...it wont do it rite away sometimes i can rev it alil over then 5mins latr it will start acting up....the idle has started jumping on me every now and then...im running a 2.5" straight pipe exhaust....ill give it a look tho

 

now that i think about it.. it probably just needs a re tune..

 

in boost it will go to around 15.5-16's.....then it just goes crazy and bounces from 13-18....no its still on the tune from b4 the build but it was just tuned to the wastegate's spring which is 7psi.....i was told to change the oil after 1000miles and around 1500-2000miles bring it back to retune....when hitting boost here latly i will only take it to no more then 4psi and let back out...im using the e-manage

 

so with it being not tuned since the rebuild it could still cause it to act up even without getting into boost??...just worse if i do hit boost??....even after i cut the car off and let it sit after cutting out when i crank it up it will keep doin the same thing for alil while and then just like magic start drving fine again....

 

Did you go with lower compression rods? and have you Reflashed your greddy to make sure it didn't lost it's tune? the exhaust wouldn't have much to do with this unless you're leaking at the manifold. which you could be if they didn't put a new gasket on.

 

also if you reflash your greddy unplug your battery so it will reset your Stock ECU. it could be your stock ECU has learned around the emanage.

 

^^that could be, i remember hearing that about the emanage...luckily it never happened to me. I would honestly recommend a retune though regardless...the internals being done has changed what your car does...retune

 

Tune it.

 

A. Stop hitting boost until it's fully broken in.
B. Once it's fully broken in, tune it ASAP.

Built engines are not indestructible. Baby that thing till your tuned.

 

i just noticed this. wow i hope no one else caught it. i'd fix it but it's to funny to fix

obviously i ment pistons

 

Your Fired for posting the error

 

What engine management do you have? If you are on a piggy back the stock ecu will still override it at part throttle.

 

he's on an Emanage and only the greddy line of piggy backs do that. the unichip and some others don't have that problem

 

I'm sorry but I don't agree with that because a piggy is a piggy no matter how you look at it at part throttle the stock computer still maintains full control and the piggy can only have a little control no matter how its tuned when you are full throttle the piggy has full control because the stock ECU doesn't use sensors for feedback like its does at part throttle.

 

The AEM F/IC is always in control even at part throttle.. I do believe I may be a lil off. Thats the main reason I bought it.

toyota-scion-tc: did you ever get your turbokit in from Todd. This is vinny with the 07 CSM turbo tC from murfreesboro

 

It may have better control at part throttle then others because of the interface but still doesn't have full control nothing will except a true standalone.

Not yet. Did you get your MAF flange? I finally had enought and told him WED night I wanted tracking numbers by FRI or full refund. He had one that night and said I would get two more THURS but nothing. I told him partial shipment isn't good enough. He send me a message SAT saying he dropped everything off at the UPS store and would have something for me MON (today) so I am waiting to see. I am in the process of taking care of this another way and trying to give him this last chance but I have given him too many chances already but if nothing today then I will use my backup plan.

 

yea im running 9:1 compression pistons....iv been lookin and checkin some stuff and everytime i press the gas the check engine light will start to blink so i got the codes on it and its saying that my #3 coil pack was bad, i could also unplug the harness from the coil pack and it wouldnt make any difference, when i would unplug any of the others the engine would bogg down....so wat iv done so far is iv changed all 4 spark plugs iv replaced the #3 coil pack and its still acting the same...i just went out and played with the wires coming off the coils then went for a drive and it drove perfect for about 5mins but then after acouple stops and starts it began to act up again, this leading me to believe i may have a short in a wire somewere...i called the dealership to find out about the harness only to be told that its part of the main engine harness and that gonna cost me $736 just for the harness.....i need a way i guess to check to make sure that is the problem and also to find a cheaper harness if that is the problem b/c thats insane...im thinkin of droppin by the dealership and have them diagnostic test it for $70 if thats wat it takes...but any help of a cheaper way of doin this would be awesome!!...thnx