Werewolf6410

the 14mm bolt is removed but the pulley is stuck, i've tried knocking it off but i'm afraid i'm going to damage the bearings or the shaft if i havn't already. any ideas.

this is a 06 supercharger and stock pulley that i'm rebuilding and the 14mm pulley bolt is off, also any ideas on why it would get stuck up there, maybe i missed something?

GQQSE13

i maybe completely wrong on this, but u try to spray WD-40 on it to try to loosen it up?

Werewolf6410

we did, we even tried some bad idea's envolving brass mallets and puches to try and shim it off, the damn thing is unbelievably stuck.

GammaTNT

iTrader: (8)

is it the pulley on the top?

Werewolf6410

yea, its the drive pulley, i removed the stupid bolt and will not budge.

Werewolf6410

i would buy the stock shaft and pulley end off of someone if they had it laying around, preferably the 07 and later version, i don't like the idea of 2 idler pulleys, the more chances of one going bad.

Werewolf6410

i got really concerned when i watched gompka's video on how to install his shaft and when he went to remove the s/c drive pulley he just removed the 14mm bolt and slid of the pulley, mine on the other hand is acting like its pressed on.

ElevationTC

In all s/c ive done never seen on stuck.. Have you tried heat? The aluminum should heat up rather quickly.

Werewolf6410

no i havn't tried heat yet, thats an idea, do think there is a chance of reusing this pulley if i clean out any burs or grit off of the shaft and inside the pulley?

Werewolf6410

also what are the bearing size's on the pulley side?

Werewolf6410

Rebuild Info
Bearings-
For the impeller shaft bearings
2 Nachi ball bearings nac-6003 (must be speed rated to 65000 RPM)

For the main input shaft bearings
2 SKF Ball Bearings 6205/C31

End Part / shaft assembly....
There are two end bearings part number 6205 2rs
Seals-
25-40-7 is the metric size of the shaft seal.. Timken part #222540

answered my own question

Blue_TC_Man

heat or a pulley puller

GammaTNT

iTrader: (8)

wedge a big screw driver in and wiggle it out gently,
I kinda mess up on my first time, because i hammered it out. . now the pulley have scuff marks.

Werewolf6410

that makes two of us, also i found a local bearing shop here, like 2 miles from me, has all the bearings for the supercharger in stock, shaft bearings are 8 bucks, freaking sweet if you ask me, and the meet the oem standards, also they have the high speed rated bearings for the impeller side as well. just hope i can get this stupid pulley off.

Werewolf6410

thanks for all the tips, i've got some idea's now, so yall think the shaft and pulley will be alright after this ordeal?

gompka

iTrader: (5)

Use a pulley puller and heat it.

DONT USE STOCK BEARINGS - use NTN 6205 LL BC3 bearings. They are $35 a piece, makes you wonder why the stock bearings are only $8 and only rated to 8000rpm, when the shaft spins faster than that. But if you want to save $52 and end up looking for a new shaft down the road, just get the skf bearings.


For the idler pulleys use Koyo 6203 sealed bearing, they are $8 (even at $8 they are lots better than stock)a piece shouldn't be a big concern for you.

Get a grease fitting put into the shaft side of the s/c, it should cost a few bucks and will substantially increase the life of your shaft/bearings.

Lots more info here http://www.tcsuperchargers.com

Werewolf6410

thats great to know, thanks for the input gompka, i'm gonna get a quote from the supplier here tomorrow. thanks again. I did eventually get the pulley off and to only find that the original bearing actually melted and fused with the pulley, i'll get pics of that later for yall. when i pulled the plate off the first bearing just fell apart and all the ***** rolled onto the floor, some of them square and i don't mean the spacers, the steel ***** were all sorts of shapes. i'm going to have to replace the pulley, guess i'm gonna go with a NST 9.5 pulley unless someone has a stock pulley they are willing to put up.

Werewolf6410

just so yall know, i used a little heat, wd-40 and a brass hammer with a buffer(which didn't matter since the pulley was fused.) and just tapped it as it heated up and it eventually popped off with the ***** falling after.

AZGuy

iTrader: (1)

I had mine stick pretty good once. Just had to gently apply some force to pop it off. Had a small amount of water get down in there and lock them together.