Jacque766

With it being a stock motor for the time being, from What I'm reading 750cc is a bit big for only 9 psi or so.

I'm guessing I should throw in some 440's for now. Should be able to handle 250-300hp correct? Or do I have to bump up to 550?

J~

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

A fully tuned standalone requires a lot of tuning, thats true.. but the question is how good is your tune, it should have a drivability close to a factory turboed car but pulls like a beast.. So no O2 sensor installed, looks like they disabled closed loop and did everything without O2 sensor, if the tune awesome thats good and that justified their extended dyno time.. and you're ok without the O2 sensor.. downside is, closed loop helps your afr be stable, should anything happens to some of your parts that can alter your tune like exhaust or vacuum leaks, the O2 sensor helps compensate to bring your afrs where you wanted so an O2 sensor is really recommended especially with everyday use.. As for your EGT question, it can be adjusted by dialing your fuel and ignition map

rhythmnsmoke

I was talking just for the manifold.

Jacque766

So.. a lot of dyno tuning has gone into this vehicle to get the Hydra to run smooth.

But I plan to use it for more of a daily than a racer. Plus my engine is stock. I'm thinking of downgrading to a smaller size injector may be a better option. Like the RC 550's since I have the 750's.

Is there a quick way to keep the map that has been created and stored but change it to reflect the smaller injectors. Or are we talking a bunch more tuning?


J~

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

^^ it would be another set of tuning.. but i say keep your injectors, as long as your tune is fine it should be alright

Guru

Actually the primary O2 is never used by the Hydra folks. Only the secondary one and only if you want it to in the settings. You can use either the OEM secondary O2 or the Hydra wideband for closed loop operation. The Hydra obviously works best so I like to just remove the factory O2's and use the Hydra wideband only. If tuned properly they tend to last a long time. The OEM MAF can be removed once you wire in the AIT sensor. All the basic sensors on the car still are used by the Hydra such as cam, crank and water temp sensors. Any OBD II sensors with the exception of the secondary O2 sensor are not used such as EGR, fuel tank differential pressure sensors etc. . .

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

^^ that one I got mixed up, thanks for clearing it up

Jacque766

I looked at the Hydra MAP for my car and the closed loop tab (settigns) RPM limits were 900 Min and 4800 Max.

What is everyone else using?
It needs to be in open loop at idle correct is that why the min was set to 900 since the car idles around 750-800.

j~

Guru

YOu can do 400-5000 if you want. I usually do that for most cars and then use the target AF table. Check wideband AF target table for the sensor used. This will use the wideband and will target whatever you enter in the target AF table which I usually do 15.5:1 for better mileage under cruising.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

yup what he said.. you would want your idle to be in closed loop to have a more stable afr... but at cold start you might be in open loop though until the wideband sensor heats up to operating temp

Jacque766

I like the AFR target table idea but I don't have an NTK L2H2 sensor right now. Still searching for a good deal on one. I only have the rear 02.

Currently I'm using the rear 02, closed loop enabled, long term learning enabled and both 14.7 left checked for the left and right source ....standard setup without a WB02 so I've been told ;).

What does the hydra use after you surpass the MAX setting? Does it then switch to open loop automatically and just use your AFR table?

If that's the case wouldn't I want to lower the max down to 3800 since I start building boost after that. Then wouldn't the Hydra use my tuned fuel map and AFR tables instead of staying in close loop?

Jacque766

I agree with wanting the idle to be in closed loop when the engine is warm but if we set the min. to 500 RPM isn't that going to effect start up as well? Wouldnt it then force the 02 sensor to go into closed loop at start giving bad readings until the 02 sensor was warmed up? Catch 22?

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

I thought you have the hydra wideband? the NTK L2H2 is the hydra autotune wideband. You can only use the target afr table when you have the hydra wideband, and yeah below or above the closed loop rpm settings, you will be and in open loop.. open loop doesnt use target afr table .. target table is for closed loop only

Guru

Hydra won't go into closed loop until sensor warms up so cold start is not a problem.

Guru

I would recommend you pick up a Hydra wideband. As for the RPM upper limit the Hydra switches to open loop once yuo get into boost anyway so it doesn't matter. It is good for high speed cruising ie. 100 MPH speed runs steady state.

Jacque766

Sorry,

I thought I had the WB02 as well but when I pulled the sensor out of the box of parts it was the secondary OEM sensor instead. The tuner must have kept the L2H2 and just gave the rear OEM one back in a box.

Then I looked at the rear OEM one and its in BAD shape(crushed and corroded) . So I doubt it even works. The Hydra didnt seem to be getting a reading from it.

Tommorow I'm going to have a new 02 bund welded on. I have the AEM EUGO WB02 on another car so I may pull it off and hook it up to see how things are running.

I might get another OEM secondary sensor too ;) and I'll install that for now until I can find a decent deal on the L2H2. (Best place to buy one?)

Thanks for all the help.

j~

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

the best place is through hydra itself, guru can get you one or go directly to hydraems.com but you will have to call to order.. have your serial number on the hydra box ready, they would need that for the unlock code of the autotune feature.. theres no good deal on that though, prices are standard on all dealers

Jacque766

Yeah, directly through Hydra is probably going to be best.

I wonder why a Bosch 5 wire WB02 Senor can't be used instead. Should have the same currents and voltage output correct? As long as the pins were connected the same......yes/no?

"Bosch LSU 4.2 5 Wire Wideband o2 Sensor from Innovative Tuning $79"

My AEM UEGO WBo2 controller has a bosch on it I believe for my other car.

J~

Jacque766

Ahhh, I think I get it now...so when its in open loop the Hydra just uses your fuel MAP? And the fuel MAP can compensate for Boost if setup correctly.

Will the Hydra will automatically kick into open loop when you hit boost or would it still try to stay closed loop if your MAX closed loop setting was say 5000 rpm?

What about air temps? On average, lets say idle and cruising speed, what are your air intake temps at?

At idle Hydra was reading 45 C. (113 F) Outside temp was 95 F. Good ole sunny AZ.

Guys, by all means, if this info is explained in a manual let me know...the one i downloaded off the internet dosnt have any of this info. I'll shut up and read then.

Don't have the supplied CD either.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

Where is you cd? get it from where you bought it, thats your disc and you need to get the software so you can install it and see whats on the hydra. Could you take pics of your setup? since you got it tuned and dynoed, what where the numbers that you put up?

intake temps are different and correspond to outside temperature, your intake temp might be a lil higher than the outside temp since your intake is sucking hot air on your engine bay.. You will see your intake temp going down when the car is moving coz there is more air flow going in from outside..