I need major help guys...car is dieing
#1
Senior Member
SoCal tC Club
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 294
I need major help guys...car is dieing
So this morning it was about 100F here in San Diego. I decided to head out to some places with AC. I warmed up the car and got it ready and drove it fine to best buy. I parked it for about 2 hours.
I then came out to once again leave, I warmed up the car to about 30PSI for oil and took off. When I came to a stop at the stop sign it dropped to 0PSI and shut off.
I thought maybe I went into boost and went into neutral too quickly.
I turned it back on and drove again. Then it started to sputter. Sputter so badly that it was shaking the WHOLE CAR. I thought the oil may have been low...
I stopped by Kragen, changed some vac hoses I thought were bad, added oil, turned it on and it idled hard. It would drop to 400RPM at idle then reach 650 once again. I tried to drive off but when I got to 20MPH it would not go above 3500 RPM.
I have no idea why. Then my CEL came on. I did not have access to an ODB2 scanner at the time.
I have no idea what is wrong. I got it home just barely but it was making an EXTREMELY high pitched whine that sounded like it was coming from the drivers side of the engine bay.
I need my car working by tomorrow morning for work...I hope there is no engine damage.
If I can not fix whatever is wrong with it I will have to pull an all nighter and bring it to stock to get to work tomorrow =/
I then came out to once again leave, I warmed up the car to about 30PSI for oil and took off. When I came to a stop at the stop sign it dropped to 0PSI and shut off.
I thought maybe I went into boost and went into neutral too quickly.
I turned it back on and drove again. Then it started to sputter. Sputter so badly that it was shaking the WHOLE CAR. I thought the oil may have been low...
I stopped by Kragen, changed some vac hoses I thought were bad, added oil, turned it on and it idled hard. It would drop to 400RPM at idle then reach 650 once again. I tried to drive off but when I got to 20MPH it would not go above 3500 RPM.
I have no idea why. Then my CEL came on. I did not have access to an ODB2 scanner at the time.
I have no idea what is wrong. I got it home just barely but it was making an EXTREMELY high pitched whine that sounded like it was coming from the drivers side of the engine bay.
I need my car working by tomorrow morning for work...I hope there is no engine damage.
If I can not fix whatever is wrong with it I will have to pull an all nighter and bring it to stock to get to work tomorrow =/
#3
get that code scanned asap, that will help alot. check plugs, check hoses, check tee's make sure none are crushed, autozones and stuff should still be open.
pop the hood, start the car and listen to where the noise is coming from, try to single out whats causing it
pop the hood, start the car and listen to where the noise is coming from, try to single out whats causing it
#5
so its RPM dependent? anyone around that could lightly rev the car? the part that confuses me is all your rotating stuff is on the passenger side, pulleys, crank, alt, etc etc, the drivers side has nothing external that rotates aside from your turbo. which is middleish
#7
check/change plugs, and if your tune was done in the cold, its gonna need touched up most likely for 100 degree weather, turbo cars never run real great in super hot weather. check your fuel injectors make sure one of them isnt wide open spraying.
still doesnt explain the whine, which BOV you use?
still doesnt explain the whine, which BOV you use?
#9
i know i had an injector stick on my old car and caused all kinds of problems, took forever to figure out it was that, it makes a mess, but you have to pull the injectors out, still on the rail and crank the car. it will be very obvious which one is bad if thats the case. should be a nice even mist/spray coming out, my broke one looked like a garden hose dumping fuel
#11
ouch, you need to do a compression test asap, very high possiblity of a blown head gasket, bad piston/ring/landing, or shot valve. leaning more towards the head gasket untill i see compression test numbers. autoparts places sell a kit for like 20-30 bucks, there is a howto vid on youtube just search for scion compression test
#16
if you were not located in san i would help you out but im across the states but it is not that hard ... do it yourself so you dont have to blow about 1500 on parts and labor if it comes down to the gasket .... its not that hard to do and you do not need to remove the timing chain cover ...its super easy to do just mark your cams and and your timing chain cover so you can line the cams back up to where they should be and there ya go your done and thats the hardest part
#19
just post your numbers, different numbers mean different things. may have to do a leak down test too. if you have 2 cylinders side by side with both low compression is most likely a head gasket. i had one low cylinder, it was a bad ring landing/piston