JoYBOi

I recently had my turbonetics kit installed in Cali. Then I had my car shipped to Kansas where i stay at now. Ever since I recieved the car I had a check engine light and required maintainence light on. I called the shop that installed it and they said it was normal to have these lights on due to the installation of the turbo, so i proceeded to continue driving my car like normal.
Upon further evalution through daily driving I noticed a number of problems... First the car stalls out of no where.. like i'd be accelerating and then engage the clutch and it stalls. Second the exhaust pops or backfires after letting off the gas quite often. Third from like 1000-3000 the car stutters quite dramatically before hitting boost.
Due to these issues, I decided to get some help by calling turbonetics.
This is when i learned that no lights are supposed to be on and that proper installation of the turbo leaves the car running as if it were stock...
One of the problems being in Kansas is that few people will work with me to find out what the codes are for the check engine light and maintanence req. light. The scion dealer about an hour away said he'd work with me but i cant go for about a week due to my work schedule.
Is there anything i can do to resolve these issues myself or does anyone know what these problems pertain to?

rhythmnsmoke

Sounds like 2 things.

1) you have a bad fuel map. maybe the Uni-chip is screwed. Backfires are a sign of running rich, but you shouldn't back fire as often as you described.

2) there is a fouler they use, and it is often installed incorrectly. you might want to get pics of your engine bay, so knowledgeable people like MIAPLAYA can see if everything is on the up and up.

I have a ZPI Stage 1 kit, and I have a CEL, but I also don't have any Cat's. I'll probably get ZPI to get it scanned for me on my next visit, to see exactly what it says. Even though I have a CEL, our car runs Strong.

Schuller

Do you have the installation manual? I would go over the install and check everything. It could be anything from loose intercooler piping to missing O2 extender.

Good luck with the kit. I'm sure you will get it squared away. Must bet a problem with the install. No one here has had a problem with the unichip.

tikbhoy

CEL

- you need to get a OBD2 code reader to see what it is.



Maintenance light

- Maybe its time for an oil change, interval setting will vary from dealer to dealer. it goes from 1k to 5k.

How many miles since your last oil change?

^ agreed somebody had the similar issues and found out that his piping was loose. check all vacuum fitting too.


then PM " MIAPLAYA "
* the turbonetics dude

DTRUONG_112

If I were you, first check all your piping andd make sure there are no leaks. It sounds to me that there is a leak. Second, make sure the vacuum line on the BOV is connected to the top port of the BOV. Do those steps first and if you cant figure it out, let me know. Where are you located at in KS? Im in Overland Park and I have the same kit and its running fine. If your close, I can take a look at it for ya.

MIAPLAYA

As stated there are several things that can be done incorrectly during install. For one the O2 extender should be on the SECOND O2 sensor not the first. Ensure the BOV boost signal is going to the port closes to the logo (uppermost port) ensure you have no vacuum leaks etc..you should not have a code at all. What shop installed your kit?

JoYBOi

First thing I'm gonna do i guess is check with the dealer for what the codes are, but i can't go until next week due to work. Also i'll try to get the installation guide and check what i can.
My area is in ft riley, kansas. I dont know how far that is from overland.

JoYBOi

The shop that installed it was Mossy Performance in California. It's the shop that turbonetics themselves reccomended to me when i called them looking for a good place in the area to get the turbo installed.
Now I'm not gonna discount them as a good reputable spot to get work done for your car, but the individual i was working with over the phone told me that the check engine light would always be on due to the turbo. And he also assured me that the turbo was installed correctly to all specifications.. However, it does seem like i have problems with it in my period of driving in it, and after talking to some techs at turbonetics it would not seem everything is functioning as it should.

peteyd

sounds like a bad map to me....as rythem said. cause mine does the same exact thing because im not tuned currently. Does everything you listed except the stalling.

MIAPLAYA

Hmmm, well I'd like to see some info to try and help you here. Both of you for that matter if you both have Turbonetics kits. What are the codes? Are the O2 extenders in the right spot? Whats your boost gauge read at idle? The codes should not be on...please ensure the BOV vacuum fitting is in the upper port on the BOV. Also another thing you can try is to disconnect your primary O2 sensor and see if anything changes...

peteyd

im runnin the zpi stage one mine is just a tuning issue. i konw that much cause my emanage has no maps in it. it was a big ol deal search for the peteyd saga pt 3 i think it is and that will get you all the info on mine about the tuning problems ive had.

MIAPLAYA

Ahh ic...well sorry but I don't have enough first hand knowledge of the kit design to be as helpful as I could be if you had the Turbonetics kit. But if theres something I can help with I'd be happy to.

peteyd

Thanks for the offer but kenny is bending over backwards for me to get it up and running properly. i wouldve gotten turbonetics cause my local shop wanted me to but took a bit long for it to come out and bit outta my price range.

JoYBOi

I will check what i can, but to be truthful my knowledge of engines and turbos is quite limited... Best thing i can do is wait for the dealer to tell me what codes it's getting... One thing i'm sure of though is that it is running too rich, which is the reason for the backfiring.

pollup

My cel and maintenance light is on, but im running stupid rich. as far as backfiring, its gonna backfire if your running rich. it takes a little bit of learning to drive the vehicle to reduce this. instead of pulling out of third and letting the idle go down, down shift until your almost to a stop. this has reduced my backfiring 95 percent. as far as the 1000-3000 stuttering, thats because of your driving most likely. i have had this issue alot. after talking with rhythmnsmoke we have come to a conclusion, you either need to decide to boost or not to boost. thereis no room for _____footing as he put it. today i drove my vehicle for a decent amount of hours. as far as it stalling mine tends to stall sometimes, but only after i stopped. everytime i stop my car will drop to 500 rpm and after a little shake (sometimes a stall) the engine catchs back up. but during this period that the engine attempts to stall if you try to put it in first and go, you will get your stuttering betweens 1000-3000 rpms. i believe this is caused by the engine trying to save itself from stalling and it pulls timing so you cant just gun it. i honestly think your just running a little rich and need to get use to driving it. its taken me over a month, but as of today i can finally partial boost in 2nd without the stuttering, or at least put some acceleration without wotin 2nd good. good luck , check out those codes, but im pretty sure your ok.

bbsciontc

I had a very similar problem with a turbo kit installed on my nissan by a shop in nj. The car stalled and backfired like crazy. After researching a bit about the bypass valve, I discovered that the shop connected the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the wrong port on the bpv, causing it to stay shut under all conditions. When I let off the gas, I would get compressor surge, which made my maf go crazy and dump too much fuel, causing stalling and REALLY LOUD backfires. I redid the vacuum lines and the car drove perfect after that. Just check it out cause it sounds so similar to my issues.

JoYBOi

Your car does sound like it is doing exactly what mine is. I checked the lines for leaks, but i didnt check to make sure they were running to the right openings.

Well here are some codes i'm getting from the check engine, the code followed by what it is :

P0300 -Random Misfire
P0301 -Misfire #1
PO302 -Misfire #2
P0304 -Misfire #4
P2195 -B1S1O2
P2238 -B1S1A2 or B1S102 (not sure the handwriting on the paper is bad)
P2A00 - AF SENSER, CIRCUIT SLOW, B1S1

I'm working with someone on the phone at turbonetics as well on the problem, but if anyone has a clue what's going on, all help is appreciated.

Also do you need a turbo - timer for this kit. I always sit in my car for 2 mins to cool it off.. I'm pretty sure you need one but havent gotten one yet.

JoYBOi

As far as the 02 extender I belive someone showed me that it was indeed in the wrong spot. He hooked up his scanning tool and told me the front was saying the it was running rich and the back was running lean, so that was the cause of my issues. I will take a picture of the o2 extender and post it.

And where i got it installed is the same place as this guy's hood says ...

http://68.111.208.232:1352/album_pic.php?pic_id=32

Munch

Good to see you got it squared away. It's almost always 98% install error when something goes wrong with this kit.

MIAPLAYA

Yup...