Prototype_xB

I'm rather baffled and frustrated. I completed my install of my Dezod Stage I kit and everything ran PERFECTLY! I went crusing around town and stopped at Target for 3 minutes. I cut the car off when i parked. When i jumped back into the car she cranked up for half a second then died. And now everytime i try to crank her up, the starter just turns and turns and turns and the engine will just not crank up. Any and all help is needed. Everything ran just right, ran STRONG, and then outta nowhere, KUNK! Car has to spend the night at Target



**UPDATE** 12/16/06

i found the problem but not the underlying problem. I checked the fuse box and saw that my EFI fuse was blown. No biggie, i replaced it. 20a fuse. So i put another 20a fuse in it. When i cranked her up, POP!! Blew that fuse. So then i put a 30a fuse in instead and she cranked right up!!! Idled for 5 minutes and i even went through the RPMs just making sure it was running fine, and it was!! Delighted, i pulled away thinking my problem was solved and went shifting into 2nd gear she boggled and died. You guessed it, blown EFI fuse AGAIN!. I put another 30a fuse in and this time it poped it right as i turned over the starter just like it did with the 20a fuse. So now my problem is a short somewhere but how the hell i've aquired a short is beyond me! I unplugged my plug and play harness on my emanage and plugged the stock harness back into the ecu. Stuck another 30a fuse in and she cranked up, ran like hell and super pig rich too. Decided to stiff it and putt putt home. Well i got maybe a block away and pop! Fuse blew again! So now i need help in finding this short. It blew with the emanage unplugged so i know the emanage can't be shorting out. This is one of the first few Dezod kits that include the new plug and play injectors. So when installing eveything fuel related all i had to do was drop in these new injectors and plug the factory harness to them and plug the PnP harness into the ecu. No where is there room for error. No cutting and crimping like the RC's. Any thoughts now??




I just don't understand how she can run perfectly and STRONG for 1 hour, then start popping fuses the next. Not only that but how do you explain cranking right up on a 30a fuse, then the next popping them right at start up!?






Alrighty more ODD symptoms. I replaced the fuse again just now in my garage and unplugged the injectors. I turned the motor over a few times knowing it wouldn't crank. I did so to see if this would blow the fuse, which it DID NOT. Now here comes another STRANGE occurance. I turned the motor over with the injectors plugged back in and of course it blew the fuse. Now i replaced it and when i turned the key to the ON position, not cranking, just ON, i heard a LOUD POP!! I freaked and checked everything. NOTHING!! No fuses were blown, no burning smells, nothing! Did this again but had someone else do it so i could watch the engine bay. When it happened again the whole motor rocked, and this is without cranking it over, JUST TURNING THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION!!!



**Stock injectors w/ emanage plugged in, still getting a blown fuse**





**UPDATE**


PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!!


Thanks a ton to Joe and Paul While talking to Joe on the phone he asked a few questions that kinda sprung something into my mind. When i installed the S-Pipe i remember noticing that the secondary oxygen sensor wiring harness was TOUCHING the bearing hub (dunno exactly what to call it) on the passenger side CV axle. I thought for a minute and BAM! That would explain why it happened after i drove the car for a while! I thought maybe the outter sheathing on the a wire got burnt through exposing metal to metal. This was after joe told me that all the EFI componets ground through the engine block. So this made total sense to me. Exposed wire touching a metal componet that's connected to the block that carries a current of it own, heck yeah, that'll short a fuse!! After getting off the phone with joe, i jacked the car up and slide under it, examined the wiring harness on the sensor and sure enough, a BURN MARK!! There's no way of getting around the sensor touching that bearing hub. The position of the bung is at fault. I wrapped some electrical tape around the wire, unplugged the sensor and then had to run to the store to pick up some fuses, i popped all of mine, . When i got back i dropped in a fuse (20a of course) and cranked it up, SHE LIVES!!! It had the stock injectors in plus the emanage so it idled pretty lean, i cut it off and pushed it up under my garage cuz it was too dark outside to put the 550cc's back in out there. Dropped the new injectors back in, cranked her up and ran perfectly!! Let it idle for a good while and i went yet again cruising, but guess what the best part was!? I made it back home!!!!!



So to sum up, a wire on the secondary O2 sensor touching the bearing hub (still dunno what to call it) on the passenger side CV burnt through the outter sheathing due to heat from the hub exposing metal to metal, shorting out the EFI componets that are grounded through the block popping a fuse. Wow, i swear, i was about to lose my mind!! Spent all this time waiting for the kit (thank you Jet-Hot ) then a hefty install just for this to happen. Wow, it was something pretty simple and for that i'm glad!! Thank God no injector harness faults! I'm pretty well rounded when it comes to F/I, this is my second turbocharged car and i NEVER NEVER had anywhere near the amount of headache i've had today


The kit is wonderful and the HKS BOV IS LOOOOOOOOOOUD!!!

Full review of kit on my other thread, "Another Dezod Kit" in a day or two


Thanks a ton for eveyone tuning in and thanks another ton to everyone that chimed in and tried to help out. I swear i was so happy when i got it running i even gave my dad a hug! You guys know how akward that is I'm only curious as to how i'm the first with the dezod kit to run into this problem. The bung position on the s-pipe i mean. I guess everyone else just had enough smarts to wrap something around the sensor beforehand. I never heard anything of the sort so when i dropped in the s-pipe i assumed R&D of the position had been completed with no problems.


Have a great weekend guys and STAY TUNED!! (Pun intended)







Pics:

Prototype_xB

Paul, i wish you had an emergency hotline!

krdshrk

Check the spark plugs? Wait - you're saying you just hear the starter click? How's your battery? Try charging/jumping the battery a bit?

This sounds like the problem I just had - for some reason my battery went dead... like it wasn't being charged.

Prototype_xB

/\/\ No no, the starter is turning the motor over but the darn thing will just not start!

satoman44

vac leaks, fuel leaks, check plugs...idk sorry, haven't really had any experience trouble shooting. you check those main things?

Prototype_xB

No vac leaks, no fuel leaks. Didn't check the plugs. Didn't have tools. What could be wrong with the plugs? They're brand new NGK BKR7's.

Prototype_xB

I thought maybe my emanage went on the frittze so i unplugged my plug and play harness and plugged the factory harness back to the ecu and the same thing kept happening

Prototype_xB

Problem has to be either spark or fuel.


When i check the plugs, what do i need to check for?

krdshrk

See if you can smell fuel on them... and see if there's any carbonization on them. When my car wouldn't start, it was because the plugs were fouled. The tips of them were completely black.

Prototype_xB

What would have caused them to foul? What would make them fire one second, then not the next?

krdshrk

My car was running way too rich (Stock ECU after I first had my turbo installed). Too much gas = fouled plug.

Prototype_xB

10.5's AFR here

krdshrk

Were you idle at 10.5 AFR?

yamaha16bw

10.5 at wot is crazy rich. That very well could be your problem. And yes, plugs can go at anytime without warning.

If you think your not getting fuel then I would think a leak may be somewhere near the fuel rail since thats the only thing removed for a turbo install. When you pop your hood can you smell gas if the key is in the car?

I would start with plugs though.

Prototype_xB

Idle at about 14.8-15.2 AFR. WOT full boost --> 10.5AFR

yamaha16bw

Thats way too rich imo.


Dont rule out a vac/boost leak either. My brothers car did a similar thing like yours is doing. After a day off plugs and checking for any type of leaks. Turned out to only be one T-bolt on the IC piping was alittle lose. His car would kick over but only run for about 3-5 seconds.

Prototype_xB

I'm praying its just plugs

yamaha16bw

I'm sure it will turn out to be something stupid and simple to fix. Do you have a OBD-2 scanner? I would check to see if there are any codes.

yamaha16bw

BTW what did you have those plugs gapped at?

Prototype_xB

They came gapped at .040 which is stock gap