Prototype_xB

Dang, if these plugs fouled after only 30 minutes of use then i dunno what the heck i'm gonna do until i get a re-tune

t_urbo_C_harged

yeah, a/f ratio should be 11.5 - 12, you are definately a little rich, check the plugs as stated, then check the fuel... how much boost were you running? hope you find an easy fix!

mikescion

Check your Ignition Fuse under the hood sounds like a problem i had let us know what you find out.... and if we could help you in any other way...

mike6789k

watching to see what the solution will be. hope it's just the plugs! 10.5 sounds like it could foul them

thechick_zpi

I agree with Mike... I doubt the plugs went bad in the time you where inside target. Sounds like an emanage issue or a fuse..It can be both, the emanage could have a loose wire etc..which in turn blew a fuse. I would check the ign, efi and the etcs fuse under the hood.

I am more the confident that this is your issue. I would not think that it is an issue of bad plugs etc.. The car would not go from fine to not starting over an hour.

engifineer

99% sure it is not caused by the plugs.

Do the basic steps for troubleshooting. Does it have fire? Does it have fuel? then go from there.

I mean this in the best way... if you installed a turbo on your car (or even had someone else do it) you should know how to do these simple checks. If not, I dont reccomend modding like that, especially FI.

Like I said. Have someone help you out by cranking it over while you check for spark. If you dont get spark, then you at least have it narrowed to the ignition and ignition control. If you have spark, then make sure your fuel system is working. That is always the first two steps in troubleshooting a no start scenario.

If the plugs were fouled, you should have had running issues before you shut it down.

It is hard to reccomend anything past that without knowing more. You changed a lot of things, so there are a lot of points for potential issues. Just take it one level at a time and narrow it down.

cz3ch

Beyond looking for all the obvious stuff, you seriously will need to tune. While the Dezod and ZPI kits are plug/play for the most part, the Emanage maps are set notoriously rich to prevent you from hitting a lean condition. Typically I would suggest installing, then driving straight to the tuner and have him work it out.


In regards to your problems, I'd be really surprised if your sparks fouled that quick unless you are just pouring fuel in.. It sounds more electrical (Battery/Fuses/etc). I'm assuming since you already pulled the emanage you reset the ECU as well? If you take the emanage out of the picture and it's still having problems look at the fuses and also your battery. The scion Ecu is crazy-adaptive so you could run boost without it while driving it gently if you like. But again check those things..

The big question is... Is your damned car still at Target?

smallblockurs10

i had a similair problem, i got on it at about 3 mph and got wheel hop and my ground to my turbo timer got loose and blew my ignition fuse, try that, doubt it would be the plugs


btw the easy way to check for spark is to take the coil/wire combo and stick a screwdriver in it and rest it on the valve cover, crank it if it has spark you will diff. see and hear a arch

so try that but i would check the fuse first, the ignition fuse is in the engine bay, behind the drivers headlight, check in your manual for a diagram. i think its page 214 or so, search around youll find it


good luck!!!

Byta27

i have the dezod kit and had one prob the car shut offf i found that the vac line that goes right behind the engine cover came offf gave me a rough idle and the car shut offfff found it and zip tied it nice and tight, when i got it installed it didnt leave the shop they tuned it and it was running 11.2 afrs at wot but now its running like 10.0-10.7 i dunno maybe i need a retune. the car seems to be running just fine, makes occasional weird sounds when i first start it up but after driving it and warmed up its fine.

DK01

Another idea would be check your maf sensor plug. I forgot to connect that when I installed my greddy kit and my motor died similar to what you stated. Maybe it came loose.

Prototype_xB

i found the problem but not the underlying problem. I checked the fuse box and saw that my EFI fuse was blown. No biggie, i replaced it. 20a fuse. So i put another 20a fuse in it. When i cranked her up, POP!! Blew that fuse. So then i put a 30a fuse in instead and she cranked right up!!! Idled for 5 minutes and i even went through the RPMs just making sure it was running fine, and it was!! Delighted, i pulled away thinking my problem was solved and went shifting into 2nd gear she boggled and died. You guessed it, blown EFI fuse AGAIN!. I put another 30a fuse in and this time it poped it right as i turned over the starter just like it did with the 20a fuse. So now my problem is a short somewhere but how the hell i've aquired a short is beyond me! I unplugged my plug and play harness on my emanage and plugged the stock harness back into the ecu. Stuck another 30a fuse in and she cranked up, ran like hell and super pig rich too. Decided to stiff it and putt putt home. Well i got maybe a block away and pop! Fuse blew again! So now i need help in finding this short. It blew with the emanage unplugged so i know the emanage can't be shorting out. This is one of the first few Dezod kits that include the new plug and play injectors. So when installing eveything fuel related all i had to do was drop in these new injectors and plug the factory harness to them and plug the PnP harness into the ecu. No where is there room for error. No cutting and crimping like the RC's. Any thoughts now??




I just don't understand how she can run perfectly and STRONG for 1 hour, then start popping fuses the next. Not only that but how do you explain cranking right up on a 30a fuse, then the next popping them right at start up!?

Prototype_xB

Alrighty more ODD symptoms. I replaced the fuse again just now in my garage and unplugged the injectors. I turned the motor over a few times knowing it wouldn't crank. I did so to see if this would blow the fuse, which it DID NOT. Now here comes another STRANGE occurance. I turned the motor over with the injectors plugged back in and of course it blew the fuse. Now i replaced it and when i turned the key to the ON position, not cranking, just ON, i heard a LOUD POP!! I freaked and checked everything. NOTHING!! No fuses were blown, no burning smells, nothing! Did this again but had someone else do it so i could watch the engine bay. When it happened again the whole motor rocked, and this is without cranking it over, JUST TURNING THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION!!!

ProshopXB

Matt.. First off ,welcome to the world of aftermarket boosting.. Isnt it fun...

Why dont you put the factory Injectors back in so you can eliminate the PnP injectors as either the problem or not?

Also what else have you wired into the electrical of the car? Anything recently? Did you check all connections, jus on the off chance somthing is grounding out? Could be possible somthing is drawing to much current an popping the fuse.

toyotaracer9

you may want to contact eric-tc he had a similar popping problem and it turned out it was backfires due to blow injector O-rings " I think thats what he had said"

as far as blowing fuses , u need to do a little troubleshooting , its like ur hitting urself in the thumb with a hammer it hurts the first time but u continue to do it . u keep blowing fuses u may end up burning up the electrical system .

ERIC-TC

REMOVE the PNP injectors immediately!!!!!! You have a leaking injector. I had thr same plroblem with one or more of my plug-n-play injectors. Do not put the injectors back in the car until you find out what the problem is. The POP from the engine has nothing to do with the blown fuse.

This is why it happens: You shut the engine down (the fuel rail is still pressurized). Shut the engine off for 30 minutes. fuel leaks past the injectors and the intake manifold has fuel vapors inside. You energize the ignition and POP fuel vapors ingnite! that's called a back-fire (But it just happened before the engine even started).

This could also happen if you crancked the engine over and over and never got the engine to fire befecasue the plugs are shot (fuel is still there).

By the way the fuel leak is INTERNAL to the injector. I sent my injectors back to ZPI for diagnoisis, I believe all the info has been gathered from the Deathworks the vendor. I've been playing phone tag with Kenny since last week, I will try to call the shop again today see if I can get Kenny on the phone.

The back fire can, and will mess the valve-train on the car if you just let it keeping on happening.

If you want to rule out the injectors... run this experiment -Right after you shut the car off -Remove the EFI fuse and crank the engine over a couple of times (this will relieve the pressure in the fuel rail) Re-Install the EFI fuse and walk away for 1 hour. Then go back to the car and start it. If you hear no POP then fuel was "somehow" making it's way past the injectors with the engine off and the fuel rail pressurized.

Byta27

dam bro i wish i could help bump for help for Matt

canrollya

sounds to me like the injector plugs are shorting .....is dezod still using wire up rc injectors(injectors that you have to change the plugs on) because if they are the wires may be touching and shorting out that would cause your efi fuse to blow. As far as your test in the garage ...you ended up preloading the cylinder and when you turned the key on you fired the plugs . that was your boom sound .

cz3ch

You really need to talk to Paul and see if he has any insight. Have you tried putting the stock injectors back on and just turning the car over? Like he said, it sounds like a leaking injector (which a backfire like that is not good btw), but at the same time it could prove beneficial to do the following test:

1.) Put the stock injectors back in the car
2.) Put the stock Amperage fuse back in
3.) Plug the emanage in
4.) Start the car and let it idle
5.) Give it some minor throttle to create some boost
6.) Turn it off

If you get this far, then you most likely have an issues with the PnP injectors/harnesses..Just talk to Joe/Paul I'm sure they will help you take care of it.

Good troubleshooting though man... looks like you are at the root of the problem.

Prototype_xB

that explains the popping, but what about the popping fuses?



So you're saying that the leak on the injectors are not due to the O-Ring, but due to an internal leak?

cz3ch

If the EFI fuse is blowing and there's a problem with the injectors, it could be fathomable that there is a problem with the actual wiring of the PNP injector harnesses.