gjpjr84

^^ please do not type in all caps its against the rules, thanks.

but it must suck to be you cause most techs i know tell me that the warrante work pays more.

BalistC

From what I understand TRD just sends out the install instructions, its not like the techs are being sent to training classes to diag issues with various TRD hardware. Its just expected to work perfect, each time, every time. I must say that is one of the benefits of going with a specialty shop for install but then it cuts down your warranty. I think I will make a note of this and pass the word to my DM the next time I see him. I think we have found an area that needs to be address and definately has room for improvment!

But I agree, I am still getting my extended warranty info in check as that also covers roadside assistance so I can a rental car and get back on the raod. Or, hopefully I am totally overreacting and my shop is right and I am totally off base, but I dont really believe that so we will see what 350 miles does!

trdsparks

So you're saying it's better to have shop do the install because they know the cars better that the techs that actually work on them all the time. If the instructions are followed properly then you won't have any problems. There are lots of people with S/C's that don't have any issues. But it seems that everytime something happens to one of the S/C's that something was modded or tweaked. Maybe just a coincidence who knows.

Before anyone out here tries to start something I am in NO way saying that changing the BPV caused this problem.

Yeah warranty work may not pay great but I am yet to see a Toyota Tech starving or hurting for money.

cessblood

In Nov My car stalled out on me when I was going 50 mph on the highways on the way to work. I had to pull over and open up the hood and everything look fine. It took me a few trys for the car to start. I took it to the drealership and they checked the vacuum tube and the air filter. they said it was a vacuum leak. My car has been running ok since then. I didn't have any black smoke or anything like that coming out from my car.

trdsparks

I have a question. Are any of you guys letting the car warm up before driving it?

06SuperWhite_SoCal_tC

I always let it warm up before driving, about 2-3 mins atleast, usually around 5 though.

cmcpride

iTrader: (3)

yes, josh is right you need to worm up your tc s/c . it needs to go into close loop or it will run super rich,

Nick06tC

Any word ben?

BalistC

Here is the current update:

I made it up there with no issues. On the way back I made it maybe 15 miles out of 180 before my CEL came on. I took the first exit and low and behold there is a Toyota dealer right there. I figured it may be providence. I pull into the first gas station I find. Pop the hood and the first thing I check was my oil level. After less than 400 miles since the last oil change I am once again down by a quart. Wanting to try go make it home I purchase the oil they carried (as I had no clue where a walmart was and couldnt think of anyone else that would be open at 1130 pm that would have sythentic) to see if that would clear the CEL. It didnt. I pull back to the toyota dealer and spend the night. The social space really isnt all that bad, but the blanket was a must.

730 following morning their service dept opens and I let them know what happened and ask them to check the code and see what they find. An hour later it was determined that one of my cats is not opperating at peak efficiency. Given that it has seen 2 quarts of oil blow past in with the past 1000 miles I am not terribly suprized by that. They change the oil again and send me on my way. Since then my S/C is now starting to make the bearing failure sound. Similiar to the clip that I heard that was posted on here, but not as loud or whiney but I think its headed that way.

Just a couple of notes to follow up with responses:
warm up (and cool down): 90-95% of the time the car gets a warm up. My definition of a warm is at least 2 minutes at idle and no hard excellerations until the temp gague is above the 2nd mark. I normally do this whenever the car has been sitting for more than about 5 hours, less time if conditions are cold. Also the car always gets a minimum of 45 seconds of idle before shut down. I normally pop the clutch when I hit the parking lot of work or the last block to my home and just coast in.

Josh about my comment on a specialty shop:
At the dealership I work at, we use outside shops for a variety of different things. Most of our truck accessories are installed at a local truck shop as A) there is a huge difference in labor costs and B) thats all they do. My comment was not ment as a disrespect to any toyota techs but do you really think that a toyota tech that has not recieved any supplimental training the on TRD supercharger in my car can diagnos a problem steming from the supercharger better than a shop that only works on setting up and/or modifying boosted applications? If the problem was not steming from the S/C then I would take my car to the same place I always do. The dealer. Further evidence is that if the techs were trained then TRD would have a rebuild kit available for the SC. If they do, could I please get the part number cause I think I need it.

Side note:
Before I left, I pulled the intake piping between the SC and the air filter. I have a lovely picture of oil in the piping. I will be dropping the car off with the dealer monday and insist that it is completly fixed.

BalistC

Sorry for the long post followed by another, but just for arguements sake, There may be a breach of Moss-Magnunson Act under the implied warranty of fitness clause:

From the FTC.Gov website: http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...#Magnuson-Moss

The implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose is a promise that the law says you, as a seller, make when your customer relies on your advice that a product can be used for some specific purpose. For example, suppose you are an appliance retailer and a customer asks for a clothes washer that can handle 15 pounds of laundry at a time. If you recommend a particular model, and the customer buys that model on the strength of your recommendation, the law says that you have made a warranty of fitness for a particular purpose. If the model you recommended proves unable to handle 15-pound loads, even though it may effectively wash 10-pound loads, your warranty of fitness for a particular purpose is breached.

From the TRD Website: http://trdusa.com/featuredpart.cfm?part=tcsupercharger

The supercharger is belt-driven by the same serperntine belt that drives the other engine accessories. The belt drive is connected to the supercharger by a special enclosed shaft assembly that runs across the front of the engine. In operation the supercharger produces about 7 lbs. of boost, which is fed through the tC throttle body into the existing inlet manifold. A by-pass valve then recalculates (Should be recirculates I think) excess boost back into the supercharger inlet when the throttle is shut.

So then why use a BPV that leaks at 5 lbs? I am not postin this to cause anyone problems, but just in case someone from TRD is reading this and wishes to void my warranty, I just want to be prepared.

cmcpride

iTrader: (3)

oil in the part may also be coming from seal located inside s/c or blow by that will vent thru valve cover into s/c hoses

PghtC

Funny you mention the cat failure thing. I too had my primary cat go, followed by the bearing failure, and an oxygen sensor all back in November. I drove the car 4 days out of the month because it was at the dealership the rest of the days up to the 24th of November...when I traded it in.

Good luck with the fix. Have them go over it with Bob Garner at TRD and it should be fixed properly. Mine sounded so much better after they installed it with him on the phone telling them what clearances to check. They replaced mine even with the Bosch 110BPV and an oil catch can installed. Bob @ TRD knew about the valve and the catch can, but said that they didn't cause it to fail, so no worries. I was surprised since it states in the literature that a different BPV will void the warranty.

Well anywho, good luck.

BalistC

Out of curiosity, how many miles did yours last for?

The Service deptartment is in the process of getting TRD to send a warranty claim number to order the new SC with. Its seems kinda funny. When I bought the SC I did it cause I thought it would be more reliable than the other alternatives out there. Now my faith is a little shaken. I still have about 2/3's of my bumper to bumper coverage left though so I have plenty of time to see if its a chronic problem or just a fluke!

Things are going as they should be. I am glad that my car is being taken care off. Something I couldnt have had I went turbo. Will keep yall appraised.

PghtC

My supercharger was installed at 11,500 miles and the bearing went bad at 17,000, so about 5,500 miles.

trdsparks

So you're implying that all boost applications are the same? Just becasue there is a shop somewhere that happens to work with boosted cars does not mean they know more that a tech. Installing a supercharger is really no differnt that any other part being isntalled on a vehicle. If the directions are followed properly then everything will be fine. How many supercharged tC's has your local shop seen? My guess would be not every many if any at all. What Toyota/Scion training have they had? I know this is getting away from the origial post so I'm going to drop it.

As for a rebuild kit there isn't one and there has never been one for any S/C TRD has ever offered. They offer rebulit units on some and I know with the Tacoma 3.4L S/C you can for direct to Magnuson(spelling?) and get a rebuilt unit.

Oh and it clearly states that if you modify the BPV system then you will void the warranty. As i said before I am not saying that this has caused your problem. I hope everything works out for you.

gjpjr84

even though TRD doesn't offer a rebuild yet, there is a thread that took apart the S/C and shows all the peices and part numbers you need to get started.

05-RS1

when you say you put the stiffest spring into the BPV, does that mean you're holding more boost than the stock BPV? if so, u're adding excess pressure taht the stock TRD reflash is NOT tuned for. this is hazardous and can result in blowing the motor if severe enough.

white smoke relates to burning engine coolant, which is from a blown headgasket. are your coolant levels up to par? bluish smoke is when u're burning oil.

as for using 10w-30, its a big no-no if u're still running an unbuilt motor. many assume that using 10w-30 is good for the turbo/supercharger, but your engine from the factory does not like this. the 10w is a lot thicker when the engine is cold, oil does not move as freely as 5w during warm ups. during cold starts and warming up, lubrication is at its most critical time.

it will still come out the same 30weight oil when warmed up so i dont see the point. if u want, use 5w-40, but then again, u're still on stock internals. built motors w/ forged pistons have oil channels that lubricate during high rpms.

extensive research from all car manufacturers determine the best oil grade for their motors. its cheaper replacing a turbo/superchager than a whole motor. using synthetic on a boosted car is StRONGLY advised.

PghtC

10w-30 is also recommended in the manual (with a temperature range), so the motor will be fine with it. 5w-30 is recommended simply for economy reasons.

05-RS1

the oil cap clearly says 5w-30. if for economy reasons, they would say 5w-20. the first part of the oil rating does not have anything to do with economy, as the car only sees that 5w/10w while warming up. after warming up, the oil is STILL 30 weight.

every manual says it can take 10w-30, if there is no 5w available. it makes no sense in trying to start a cold engine on thick oil, even in warmer climates.

if u want engine longevity, stick wtih synthetic 5w-30.

BalistC

I think the cat goes as a result of having oil leaking from the main seal then being sucked into the induction system. I am sure that seeing alot of oil all of a sudden would freak it out.

Josh, I agree to disagree. I respect that you believe so strongly in TRD. I share simarly strong feelings for Toyota and part of that extends to Kaizen. Always looking for areas that can be improved upon is something I do at the dealership often. I ment no disrespect towards TRD and will leave it at that.

Regarding the oil; I have read from numberous sources that since the full synthetic is thinner than the synthetic blend that toyota manufactuers, you may want to try the 10w-30 to provide more lubrication during warm up. I dont remember what the justifcation was behind it when I read it but I do remember that it seemed to make sence. Also since I have suffered a failed seal after a mere 13,500 miles of use then I may be overly open minded to change to make sure it doesnt happen again in the future. But you may with to read your owners manual. It does state that 10W is just fine for some climates, but recommends the 5w for its quicker warm up properties for most applications. I know there is a climate consideration in there but I live in a very moderate climate so I dont remember what the consideration is.