nitrous 75 shot
#3
Originally Posted by gingles
if your boosted you can go 75 shot easy(if built motor) if your na do a 50 shot......wet is the way to go as well......im getting ready to spray a 50 shot on my boosted car.
im n/a but i think i want a 75 shot my friend ran it in his 05 and it worked out fine for him
#6
Gingles you're my buddy but i'm going to advise against what you're trying to do. Get a Cry02 system w/ intercooler bar from SickleCell, SL member, that will decrease your IC charge temps thus creating more power. The CO2 will cost about half the cost of a nitrous fill, is much safer and is made for boosted applications. Oh and you can get a purge setup as well so you can still have fun and purge on people.
To the OP, running a 75 shot is fine on a N/A tC, I did it for about 3 months before getting boosted. What you will want to do when it comes to jet selection is run a slightly larger fuel jet than what the chart says a 75 shot is equivalent to. The reason why is because even with you purging before using the system nitrous will get to the motor much quicker than the fuel and will bog until the fuel arrives. However, spraying too much nitrous with no fuel equals BOOM. Nitrous is not flammable either! I can scan my Mustang Dyno sheet if you want to see the bog that i'm talking about. What you should also do is run slightly larger fuel injectors so instead of the 372cc stock pick up some 440cc. I'm just telling you what I didn't know but now I do. Get yourself a CAI if you don't have one already a header and downpipe if you can afford it but at least a CAI. Nitrous can be fun if done right is all i'm saying. Look into the Dynotune single stage RPM/TPS switch as well because you don't want to spray in 1st gear and you can set it up to spay between 3000 and 5500 rpm so you never hit the rev limiter which is also a fuel cutoff...BOOM...an you don't spray at low RPM's which wastes your nitrous. You will see your bottle last much longer. If you need any help with anything let me know, also avoid the Zex kit if possible.
To the OP, running a 75 shot is fine on a N/A tC, I did it for about 3 months before getting boosted. What you will want to do when it comes to jet selection is run a slightly larger fuel jet than what the chart says a 75 shot is equivalent to. The reason why is because even with you purging before using the system nitrous will get to the motor much quicker than the fuel and will bog until the fuel arrives. However, spraying too much nitrous with no fuel equals BOOM. Nitrous is not flammable either! I can scan my Mustang Dyno sheet if you want to see the bog that i'm talking about. What you should also do is run slightly larger fuel injectors so instead of the 372cc stock pick up some 440cc. I'm just telling you what I didn't know but now I do. Get yourself a CAI if you don't have one already a header and downpipe if you can afford it but at least a CAI. Nitrous can be fun if done right is all i'm saying. Look into the Dynotune single stage RPM/TPS switch as well because you don't want to spray in 1st gear and you can set it up to spay between 3000 and 5500 rpm so you never hit the rev limiter which is also a fuel cutoff...BOOM...an you don't spray at low RPM's which wastes your nitrous. You will see your bottle last much longer. If you need any help with anything let me know, also avoid the Zex kit if possible.
#9
Originally Posted by Ace83
yeah i dont advise boost+ nitrous too on stock motor.. its much safer to just up the boost..
stock motor + boost + CryO2 = OK
stock motor + boost + nitrous = REBUILD
#13
Originally Posted by ecko04
Originally Posted by Ace83
yeah i dont advise boost+ nitrous too on stock motor.. its much safer to just up the boost..
stock motor + boost + CryO2 = OK
stock motor + boost + nitrous = REBUILD
#14
imho its tough enough trying to tune with a turbo its gonna be hella hard to tune for turbo and N2O....just saying your upping the anty on the challange...
iv thought about using n2o just for a short burst to help spool a large turbo but shut off during full boost...just an idea
iv thought about using n2o just for a short burst to help spool a large turbo but shut off during full boost...just an idea
#15
Once again I would advise against it. That's what CryO2 is for or CO2 kits, to decrease the charge temps to spool the turbo faster. Nitrous is already hard to account for since the nitrous arrives much faster than the fuel especially with a purge setup. Adding that into the equation is just asking for trouble and something I personally wouldn't do. If you have a detonation and the intake manifold shatters or catches fire there are more than a few components that you will be replacing, just ask weelo_tC when his nitrous solenoid got stuck open, on his, thankfully he wasn't boosted, the hood, fender, bumper, headlight, cai, intake manifold, fog lights, mass air flow sensor, two fuel injectors, engine harness, engine cover, inner fender liners, front lip, and a few other little items all had to be replaced. Not to mention the additional fuel and nitrous might throw off the AFR reading.
I just play things safe and if his goals are to break into the 12's he does not need nitrous to o so and it should be the last option.
crush02342002 - I also thought about that but opted to go a different route....CO2. You can use the Dynotune single stage RPM switch to lock out 1st gear if you wish and set the RPM to fire at WOT between 2000 and 4000 RPM or whatever you wish to have it set for. I had mine set for 3000 - 5500 RPM when I was running a purely nitrous setup before getting boosted.
I just play things safe and if his goals are to break into the 12's he does not need nitrous to o so and it should be the last option.
crush02342002 - I also thought about that but opted to go a different route....CO2. You can use the Dynotune single stage RPM switch to lock out 1st gear if you wish and set the RPM to fire at WOT between 2000 and 4000 RPM or whatever you wish to have it set for. I had mine set for 3000 - 5500 RPM when I was running a purely nitrous setup before getting boosted.
#16
yeah nitrous is a lil risky if not installed and properly tuned.. and not all system has extra safety features.. i agree it should be last resort but just saying a built motor can handle that without problem with a good system installed properly and good tune is done.. but i like the idea of watermeth better than cryo