cburglb34

ZEX SNIPER KIT 75 shot



tell me pros and cons it will only be for when racing the car should i use 75 shto or 50 shot wet or dry?

gingles

iTrader: (1)

if your boosted you can go 75 shot easy(if built motor) if your na do a 50 shot......wet is the way to go as well......im getting ready to spray a 50 shot on my boosted car.

cburglb34

im n/a but i think i want a 75 shot my friend ran it in his 05 and it worked out fine for him

streettimetc

spray and boost. CHEATER lol. what happen to juat one power adder. see what f&f movies brought to us. lol.

gingles

iTrader: (1)

i want a 12 second tC though haha.....the spray would only be for the track to break 12's and rub it in my roommates face.

ecko04

Gingles you're my buddy but i'm going to advise against what you're trying to do. Get a Cry02 system w/ intercooler bar from SickleCell, SL member, that will decrease your IC charge temps thus creating more power. The CO2 will cost about half the cost of a nitrous fill, is much safer and is made for boosted applications. Oh and you can get a purge setup as well so you can still have fun and purge on people.

To the OP, running a 75 shot is fine on a N/A tC, I did it for about 3 months before getting boosted. What you will want to do when it comes to jet selection is run a slightly larger fuel jet than what the chart says a 75 shot is equivalent to. The reason why is because even with you purging before using the system nitrous will get to the motor much quicker than the fuel and will bog until the fuel arrives. However, spraying too much nitrous with no fuel equals BOOM. Nitrous is not flammable either! I can scan my Mustang Dyno sheet if you want to see the bog that i'm talking about. What you should also do is run slightly larger fuel injectors so instead of the 372cc stock pick up some 440cc. I'm just telling you what I didn't know but now I do. Get yourself a CAI if you don't have one already a header and downpipe if you can afford it but at least a CAI. Nitrous can be fun if done right is all i'm saying. Look into the Dynotune single stage RPM/TPS switch as well because you don't want to spray in 1st gear and you can set it up to spay between 3000 and 5500 rpm so you never hit the rev limiter which is also a fuel cutoff...BOOM...an you don't spray at low RPM's which wastes your nitrous. You will see your bottle last much longer. If you need any help with anything let me know, also avoid the Zex kit if possible.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

yeah i dont advise boost+ nitrous too on stock motor.. its much safer to just up the boost..

tC-Collin

gingles. your built, 60/67 on 16 lbs and you havent broken 12s?

but good luck with the nitrous, ive been thinking of a 75 myself

ecko04

gingles motor is built but even still unless he wants to rebuild again much sooner I would go CryO2 w/ IC bar.

stock motor + boost + CryO2 = OK

stock motor + boost + nitrous = REBUILD

tC-Collin

gingles. your built, 60/67 on 16 lbs and you havent broken 12s?

but good luck with the nitrous, ive been thinking of a 75 myself

topekatc

iTrader: (1)

if anyone is looking i got a nitrous kit for sale so hit me up via pm

ecko04

I said all that and still didn't answer the original question....wet....FTW

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

built motor should handle 75 shots no problem assuming he has a good tune and didnt max out he's built and stock components.. if there something that might go would be the plastic intake manifold which im sure could take 75 shots

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

imho its tough enough trying to tune with a turbo its gonna be hella hard to tune for turbo and N2O....just saying your upping the anty on the challange...

iv thought about using n2o just for a short burst to help spool a large turbo but shut off during full boost...just an idea

ecko04

Once again I would advise against it. That's what CryO2 is for or CO2 kits, to decrease the charge temps to spool the turbo faster. Nitrous is already hard to account for since the nitrous arrives much faster than the fuel especially with a purge setup. Adding that into the equation is just asking for trouble and something I personally wouldn't do. If you have a detonation and the intake manifold shatters or catches fire there are more than a few components that you will be replacing, just ask weelo_tC when his nitrous solenoid got stuck open, on his, thankfully he wasn't boosted, the hood, fender, bumper, headlight, cai, intake manifold, fog lights, mass air flow sensor, two fuel injectors, engine harness, engine cover, inner fender liners, front lip, and a few other little items all had to be replaced. Not to mention the additional fuel and nitrous might throw off the AFR reading.

I just play things safe and if his goals are to break into the 12's he does not need nitrous to o so and it should be the last option.

crush02342002 - I also thought about that but opted to go a different route....CO2. You can use the Dynotune single stage RPM switch to lock out 1st gear if you wish and set the RPM to fire at WOT between 2000 and 4000 RPM or whatever you wish to have it set for. I had mine set for 3000 - 5500 RPM when I was running a purely nitrous setup before getting boosted.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

yeah nitrous is a lil risky if not installed and properly tuned.. and not all system has extra safety features.. i agree it should be last resort but just saying a built motor can handle that without problem with a good system installed properly and good tune is done.. but i like the idea of watermeth better than cryo

ecko04

Man do we ever know how to thread jack.

The OP was definitely N/A and we're talking about boosted applications

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

hey we just live up to our names...lmao

cburglb34

with the nitrous should i be running 93 or 87 octane

ecko04

93

The highest octane non-race gas available in your state.