satoman44

alright, went at it again today and i still get that popping noise when turning the ign to "on" without cranking. it sounds like its coming from the block itself rather than the injectors and after that pop, smoke creeps out through the exhaust side of my manifold and wastegate (yes, i have exhaust leaks). would a bad coil pack cause my rich, horrible idle? this might explain that one code but what about the maf code? im assuming my wiring is ok since i sent the plug n play harness in to be repaired. i really dont want to splice into my factory wires just yet.

i have an 06 btw

malloynx

can you explain this popping nosie some more..

also we don't have coil packs, we run COP. coil on plug. so basically the primary/secondary system is one unit. the PCM controls the dwell and saturation time which will produce a nice 10-15kv firing line..


remember a dead cylinder would cause i a lean condition. lambda sensors can't read fuel, only oxygen content. if your having igniton issues your sending unburnt oxygen into the exhaust showing a lean issue.

satoman44

basically, it sounds like its detonating in the cylinder because its powerful enough to shake the motor. its almost like its igniting fuel that leaks in the cylinder or something. and ya, i knew its COP, just im so used to saying coil packs, lol.

but ya, im not running lean, its running rich so i dont really know. maybe later i can try get a vid from my digital cam of the noise.

rodlandscion

on my car it looked like it was coming directly from my injectors. But later, when my injectors were seated better, the smoke poof stopped and it sounded like it was just coming from the exhaust.

rodlandscion

paul_dezod

Your issue was when you tried to wire in the black box, you nearly terminated the connection on the power lead. Hence the spuratic start


So who ever used the crimp tap-splice clampped down too much on it almost terminating the one wire completely.

satoman44

ya, but its fixed now supposedly right? its doing this with the repaired harness. btw, im the one who tapped the wires, so the only other two wires besides the power and ground on the harness are the o2 sensor wire and the tach wire.

with my unrepaired harness, i wasnt getting a tach reading, but i get one now with the repaired one. however i didnt touch that wire on the harness, but rather the factory wire given in the blackbox install manual.

satoman44

also paul, i had problems with the car not starting at all before i even attempted to install my black box. this is why i told you i thought the harness was bad to begin with.

satoman44

so supposedly my harness is fine now. i wanna test what kind of signal the maf is giving out and what kind of correction the emanage is making. when i get a DMM where should i ground the neg test lead? does it matter or can i just use the chassis for ground?

paul_dezod

The harness has 100% connectivity now.

ERIC-TC

The pop is caused by fuel making it's way past the injectors when the engine is off. The coil packs get energized when the ignition switch is set to "ON" and presto... the pop is nothing more than a backfire. In this case the engine is not even running -but it's still a backfire!

To much pop's will eventually mess something in the engine -my wild guess is a valve will eventually get bent... So fix what ever is causing fuel to enter the combustion chamber as soon as you can.

Could be electrical or mechanical related. I fixed my pop by going back to stock injectors -so I think my fuel leak was mechanical in nature. Proto type's pop was electrical in nature -I also think he had a miss-seated injector o-ring as well.

satoman44

ya, i think one of my injectors is leaking because the pop happens after the car has been sitting for a while. once it pops and i try to recreate it, nothing happens. so i think im going to take off my manifold and try to see which cylinder its coming from. unfortunately, im a college student so i am really busy with school and work.

ERIC-TC

Yep, your backfire pop is exactly 100% like mine WAS until I swapped out back to factory injectors... You can probably get a shop that does injector cleaning (The real deal -not the one's who add a can of solvent to the fuel tank). If the shop has the equipment they can tell you which of the 4 injectors is leaking fuel.

There is a procedure for doing an injector leak test in the tC service manual -but you need to have a rig that can pressurize the injectors with 45PSI of fuel and count drops. I imagine that with a litte ingenuity you could make a wire that would keep the injectors from falling off the fuel-rail and then pressurize the fuel line. -But you have to know what you are doing to prevent from blowing yourself up. When the ignition is set to "ON" the fuel pump will run until the internal pressure switch trips (45PSI). You could then just wait until you find the leaking injector. Take the coil packs off-line by unplugging them just to be on the safer side.

rodlandscion

I think in most cases the injectors are just not being seated correctly, as it is really easy to not install correctly...

satoman44

i really think the injectors are fine, i had them in for a couple of months without problem. then the problems started and i checked the injectors and they were all seating fine. just to be sure, i took the rail and injectors out and put them back in. same thing basically. i really think one of my injectors are leaking. i have the rc 550s btw.

rodlandscion

And you're positive that they're wired correctly? I know with the RC's you have to wire those in....

satoman44

lol, they are wired in the same as they were a couple of months ago when it was working perfectly. i dont know how bad wiring could cause a leaky injector if thats what the problem is.

Prototype_xB

No, i never had any problems with seatment or seals on the injectors at all. My backfiring is still a mystery because for one thing the EFI system had no connection thanx to a blown fuse so somehow fuel was leaking through an off injector during cranking because i would only get a pop if i tried cranking her up, then turning the key all the way off, then turning the key back to the "on I" position. *Pop* and it would rock the motor. Only damage it did (which it popped many many times) was blow my exhaust manifold gasket.

Prototype_xB

make sure you didn't over torque the 2 nuts that hold the rail down on the injectors. Over torquing could cause one of them not to completely seal.

MIAPLAYA

Don't know if this is an issue with this car but on 350Zs the Emanage Ultimate had issues with killing our coil packs (coils on plug setup as well). The basic issue was that if you left the key in the on position with the motor off the Emanage continued to send a signal to the coils to fire even though the motor was off. This ended up frying the coil packs on several Zs until people started installing diodes. Something to check at the least. to this day no one installs Emanage blues or Emanage Ultimates without diodes..