Official Supercharger Information Thread
08-15-2009, 06:54 PM
#341
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Scikotics
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 651
damn thats crazy, mine dont rattle but i have the carbon fiber hood that has the vent on top and everytime it rained my belt would slip off. then i went and got the updated pulley tensioner and now its fine.
08-28-2009, 03:15 PM
#343
theres a pretty gnarly rattle that comes from the pulley side of the engine that only happens when it is cold. as time goes by, it progressively gets worse and worse and lasts longer and longer and you can see it rattling down there.
it goes away as the engine warms up cause the gas in the shock expands until it finally it tenses(? lol) the belt enough for it to stop.
my tech has gone over everything several times and we don't know why it keeps happening. the assemblies we have replaced look good as new but it just too weak apparently.
TRD doesn't include an upgraded tensioner with the TRD kit, its the same as stock when you install the supercharger. there was an updated part number that arrived at some point (forget when) that replaced the old one, but it still goes out on me.
for me they last about a year ave? but this one has lasted longer cause i don't use the car hardly at all anymore since over a year ago.
lets see
the stock one went out really quick after the S/C install, the second was months after? i think, then the 3rd was 2 months after the 1yr warrantee on replacement parts, that was jan/feb last year i think.... my timeline may be wrong i am not sure, lol
then last summer i got a new daily and the tC sits in the garage like 6 out of 7 days, unless the weather is bad.
it rattles now but not nearly as bad as it has been before. come winter it'll be nasty once more. the colder it is the worse and longer it rattles.
it goes away as the engine warms up cause the gas in the shock expands until it finally it tenses(? lol) the belt enough for it to stop.
my tech has gone over everything several times and we don't know why it keeps happening. the assemblies we have replaced look good as new but it just too weak apparently.
TRD doesn't include an upgraded tensioner with the TRD kit, its the same as stock when you install the supercharger. there was an updated part number that arrived at some point (forget when) that replaced the old one, but it still goes out on me.
for me they last about a year ave? but this one has lasted longer cause i don't use the car hardly at all anymore since over a year ago.
lets see
the stock one went out really quick after the S/C install, the second was months after? i think, then the 3rd was 2 months after the 1yr warrantee on replacement parts, that was jan/feb last year i think.... my timeline may be wrong i am not sure, lol
then last summer i got a new daily and the tC sits in the garage like 6 out of 7 days, unless the weather is bad.
it rattles now but not nearly as bad as it has been before. come winter it'll be nasty once more. the colder it is the worse and longer it rattles.
08-28-2009, 03:26 PM
#344
Hey guys, I been reading this thread and its been very helpful. Great information. I had to replace my idler bearings cause they were bad. Now I want to replace the end shaft bearing. Its going bad. It makes a terrible noise at the higher rpms. Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the supercharger. I don't want to take the whole thing apart just the shaft. Any info will be great!
08-28-2009, 03:37 PM
#345
BTW, i wouldn't trust anything TRD says, the big guy at TRD Bob Garner told me once, i see your shaft is damaged from overheated bearings on your pic, but the dealership says your s/c is ok, so I can't help you. I think these people are morons
09-04-2009, 08:21 PM
#346
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 488
How hard is it to remove it? did you have to take out the S/C to do it? thanks for any info might do what you did as well.
09-04-2009, 08:32 PM
#347
09-04-2009, 08:36 PM
#348
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 488
09-04-2009, 08:38 PM
#349
10-06-2009, 05:07 AM
#351
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Shanghai
Posts: 1,119
do you guys all run 91 octane or higher??
i know that is what toyota recommends but sheitttt, its hella pricey for a fill up
also, the main question i wanted to ask is.. the creater of this thread recommends using 10w40. I work at a dealership and our quick-lube bay has mobil one full synthetic 10w40... but its meant to be for diesel engines. would i still be able to use that or not?
the lube guys can't seem to gimme an answer. any help would be great
i know that is what toyota recommends but sheitttt, its hella pricey for a fill up
also, the main question i wanted to ask is.. the creater of this thread recommends using 10w40. I work at a dealership and our quick-lube bay has mobil one full synthetic 10w40... but its meant to be for diesel engines. would i still be able to use that or not?
the lube guys can't seem to gimme an answer. any help would be great
10-06-2009, 05:17 AM
#352
^ without a doubt you have to run 91+ all the time - no questions asked - if you are worried about the gas dont buy the s/c. Im being strait foward on this because its very important you do not run a mid grade gas due to cost. S/C's are $$ and when things break its more $$ - if gas cost is an issue, put an intake/header/exhaust and call it a day.
10-06-2009, 05:17 AM
#353
do you guys all run 91 octane or higher??
i know that is what toyota recommends but sheitttt, its hella pricey for a fill up
also, the main question i wanted to ask is.. the creater of this thread recommends using 10w40. I work at a dealership and our quick-lube bay has mobil one full synthetic 10w40... but its meant to be for diesel engines. would i still be able to use that or not?
the lube guys can't seem to gimme an answer. any help would be great
i know that is what toyota recommends but sheitttt, its hella pricey for a fill up
also, the main question i wanted to ask is.. the creater of this thread recommends using 10w40. I work at a dealership and our quick-lube bay has mobil one full synthetic 10w40... but its meant to be for diesel engines. would i still be able to use that or not?
the lube guys can't seem to gimme an answer. any help would be great
10-06-2009, 03:22 PM
#355
As far as I know 10w-40 is 10w-40 doesn't really matter if its meant for deisel or gasoline, the lubricationg system works the same way. Matter of fact vw deisel engines get oilchange way less than gasoline vw's. Like every 15,000 or something along those lines.
10-06-2009, 07:09 PM
#356
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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So you guys that are S/C, what grade oil are you guys running? I live in Cali and I run 10W30, but it seems to get really dirty quick, like about 3K miles its nasty black, should I try running 10W40? I know in the winter time you need to run thinner oil, but right now here in Cali is anywhere from: 70-80 degrees, also I have 130K miles, so do you guys recommend? thanks.
10-07-2009, 03:19 AM
#357
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Location: Shanghai
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the dude who created this SC fact/help thread uses 5w40 in the summer, and 10w40 in the winter. i currently use 5w30 as toyota recommends. T
he mobil synthetic 10w40 at my work says "for diesel engines" sooo, i dunno?
he mobil synthetic 10w40 at my work says "for diesel engines" sooo, i dunno?
10-10-2009, 01:19 AM
#358
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 109
** UPDATE: the production Dates May 2006 through April 2007 scion tc ecu will not be able to reflash back to stock map. learned it the hard way today. the dealership tried to reflash twice and failed. called up corporate toyota, the response was also negative. so the 07's are considered "2007MY" what ever that means.
10-10-2009, 01:32 AM
#359
^ yea i have an 05 and it was bs. I found an ecu at a junk yard for $110 and then the dealer had to spend an hr looking at what had to be done to get the car to start (because they pretty much never would change an ecu so they had to look everything up)
10-14-2009, 07:07 PM
#360
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 552
wow that sucks, well here is a question, im still new to the S/C thing, i got about 4k on my S/C its an 07, whats the typical life for one. I know that shafts n bearings will go bad eventually(saving money right now for shaft) but over all till it craps out. based on driving, i don't rev hard, typical city and highway, with the ocasional high rpm moments? Im just thinking this way because if and once my S/C fails for good, I might have to revert back to stock or just find parts to get my car going again. just preparing for the long run since trd bailed out on their product. any comments?
-this is my complete S/c setup i plan to have and that will be it for pwr mods.
*9.5 lb nst pulley and belt
*forge 007 diverter valve
*gompka shaft
*weapon R S/C intake
all other mods would probably irrelavent to the S/C. but yeah those. I have talked to gompka a little bit about my setup and can't wait to get all of it. Money is just an issue right now.
-this is my complete S/c setup i plan to have and that will be it for pwr mods.
*9.5 lb nst pulley and belt
*forge 007 diverter valve
*gompka shaft
*weapon R S/C intake
all other mods would probably irrelavent to the S/C. but yeah those. I have talked to gompka a little bit about my setup and can't wait to get all of it. Money is just an issue right now.