noskatana94

I can assure you the that Dezod's AEM EMS works. I am running it in my car right now and have been for months and it works like a charm!

Here is the Dyno sheet for you-

272 WHP
250 WTQ



And here is a quick vid for you all it says 7lbs but I am actually running 8.5lbs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kC7vZ14LEg

rhythmnsmoke

Who said anything about the AEM EMS. That's not what he was talking about. He said the OP forgot to add the Dezod EMS, their new one they have not tested out yet. Not the AEM unit. As you can see, the AEM EMS is included in the Poll.

blown_xa

I would sugest the e-manage Ultimate. It has more features that you will ever use really. @ step launch control, rev limiter increase, control of boost sylinoid... many people don't even know it has those functions and turn to a stand-alone. A stand-alone also will take much more time to tune. The factory toyota computer is tricky indeed, but all you have to do is disconnect the front o2 sensor plug (takes 30 seconds) and reset the computer for zero fuel trim before the car is tuned... and you will never have issues with the toyota computer changing your tune. When it comes time for emissions, just plug the 02 sensor back up

noskatana94

I guess I have no idea what your talking about cause I am running the Dezod EMS...

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

its not the Dezod Aem Standalone they're talking about, its the Dezod EMS

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...854&highlight=


By the way , how is drivability when you try to throw the car to open loop by removing the O2 sensor?

rhythmnsmoke

I did that, but I always had a problem with the driveability down low because this was during the sporadic winter (one day it would be 20 degrees and then the next day it would be 65 degrees out). So, I had to always have the laptop plugged in to regulate to keep the car at 14.7-15.2 A/F ratio.

ElevationTC

so there is no way to get around the weather thing? or can you adjust fuel trim with a AIT sensor? so that when the computer seen cold temps it could increase fuel output?

paul_dezod

A standalone will allow for temp compensation, intake air comp if the proper sensors are used, it is tuned properly and such.

paul_dezod

Jarrod. You still have some power left in that tune for sure if you want to take it more aggressive. I had just started tuning VVT-i and duty cycles where getting up there quick.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

standalones have a lot adjustment trim maps to compensate for weather changes, speaking of the hydra it has fuel and ignition trim tables for both coolant temperature and air charge temp.

paul_dezod

Yep! AEM has fuel adjustments for:
throttle
coolant temp
baro pressure
EGT
Battery offset
Air temp
Fuel Offset
Boost
And a user definable one as well

Guru

No comparison. Hydra EMS will work best drive best and make awesome power (helps you get the most of what you have). I'd say the only thing holding you back is that tiny 0.63 AR on the exhaust housing. This is not a 1.8 liter!

rhythmnsmoke

The conversation was about the Piggy Backs reactions with unplugging the 02 sensor.

Of course the Standalones are going to be different in that aspect.

ElevationTC

I know this. I plan on upgrading next year to the 1.06 and running around 1 bar. since the 1.7 bar i will be running now will create some very high egt's

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

1 a/r seems quite big for our motor, 0.82 might be as big as you wanna go so you dont have to worry about too much lag..

blown_xa

yea i could see how unplugging the 02 would affect tune in summer vs winter, I guess I never ran into that situation because we re-tune my car it seems every 3 months anyhow because i make changes.

If money isnt a factor then a satandalone is definately the way to go, but like I said... it takes A LOT of tuning to make it have full control over your car compared to what the factory ecu does because the parameters for the factory sensors are perfect( to begin with)... it is something of a blank slate to begin with when installing a standalone.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

x2.. and not many tuners can calibrate standalone pretty well.. its not just doing few pulls on the dyno kinda thing especially when starting from scratch, otherwise car would run like absolute crap.. If only someone can crack the stock ecu maps so standalone users can use the vacuum part to start a basemap

paul_dezod

Calibrating a standalone takes time. It is NOT difficult. It is VERY straight forward and far from rocket science. Do a couple on the same car and you will get the hang of it real quick. It does sometimes require a controlled environment especially like a dyno with the ignition side and VVT-i tuning. Time means $$ to the end user and most end users do not want to pay a tuner for 8-11 hours of tuning to get an awesome map built at a $100-150/hr.

rhythmnsmoke

Well, I guess that all depends on your mods. If your talking about on the street, simply brake boost it.

Talking about from a dig....well, as long as you have 2 step you don't have to worry about off the line either.

Of course there is no way I would go 1 A/R if it's not Dual BB.

mikescion

Yo Hydra controlls boost too and i'm happy as hell cause i set up my boost per-gear too makes driving 100x easier. and wasn't as hard to set up like some people will say HYDRA FTW!!!