PTUNING: Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beam Connecting Rods
#1
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PTUNING: Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beam Connecting Rods
It's been a long wait, but Manley Peformance finally produced their turbo tuff design forged 4340 steel rods for the Scion tC. These rods were designed primarily for forced induction application. These I-beam rods are the strongest rods available for the 2AZ-FE motor, period. They're rated at 1000hp per set. These rods are manufacturer right here in the U.S.
Here's the link to the Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beam Connecting Rods
Check back regularly, we'll be offering many new peformance products for the 2AZ-FE motor in the next few months. These new products will coincide with the continued development of our TimeAttack turbo scion tc
MrC
Here's the link to the Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beam Connecting Rods
Check back regularly, we'll be offering many new peformance products for the 2AZ-FE motor in the next few months. These new products will coincide with the continued development of our TimeAttack turbo scion tc
MrC
#2
I thought H-Beams were the strongest?
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
#5
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Originally Posted by shizzzon
I thought H-Beams were the strongest?
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
#7
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Originally Posted by shizzzon
I thought H-Beams were the strongest?
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,
The I-beam designed is the same concept as the I-beams used to hold up building and rail-road tracks. Manley, Crower, Oliver, Cunningham, etc. all use an I-beam design for their hi-end rods. The only high-end H-beam rods are made by Carillo--an the expense is in the manufacturing process and rod bolts.
Keep in mind that a rod design is only as good as the forging, metallurgy, machining, tolerance, and rod bolts that were used to manufacturer the rods. So yes, you can have a good H-beam rod that's stronger than a cheaply manufacturer I-beam rod.
MrC
#8
ah, but i tell you what, i doubt anyone will EVER see a tC still using the same block to even reach 1000hp so not only do i doubt, but nothing will require a strength to surpass these rods.
Oh, and they are for the best price too!
Oh, and they are for the best price too!
#9
Originally Posted by shizzzon
ah, but i tell you what, i doubt anyone will EVER see a tC still using the same block to even reach 1000hp so not only do i doubt, but nothing will require a strength to surpass these rods.
Oh, and they are for the best price too!
Oh, and they are for the best price too!
#12
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Originally Posted by VIET_BOX
hmmm, jus wondering why this thread dropped fast. Maybe these rods should be advertised at the track for serious racers.?? I know some of u are serious, right?????
#16
I use these rods all the time on BIG power 4 cylinders and VQ's. Awesome rods and can take anything you can dish out. Come with ARP2000 hardware too. Basically top of the line. I need a set myself for a project I am working on.
#19
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Originally Posted by yamaha16bw
I'm in the market....hehe. How much block notching is required with these rods or do we know yet?
Toyota designed the 2az-fe block with a cylinder bore centerline offset from the crank centerline. The 96mm is quite long for any engine. The problem with having a motor with such a long stroke is that the angle of the connecting rod (in relation with the piston to the crank) is more extreme. This extreme angle can cause excessive side loads on the piston skirts, resulting in premature cylinder and piston skirt wear. I believe Toyota took this into consideration by offsetting the cylinder bore center line with the crank. On the downstroke or more specific the power stroke, the angle of the rods are more in line with a shorter stroke crank, but on the upstroke stroke (compression & exhaust) the angle is more like a 100+ mm stroke. The important thing here is that the power stroke creates the most wear and load on the pistons and cylinder wall and this was address by offseting the cylinder center line with the crank and effectively reducing the side load on the cylinder wall. This is the first 4 cylinder that i've come across with this offset design--very clever idea.
MrC