Guest

It's been a long wait, but Manley Peformance finally produced their turbo tuff design forged 4340 steel rods for the Scion tC. These rods were designed primarily for forced induction application. These I-beam rods are the strongest rods available for the 2AZ-FE motor, period. They're rated at 1000hp per set. These rods are manufacturer right here in the U.S.

Here's the link to the Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beam Connecting Rods

Check back regularly, we'll be offering many new peformance products for the 2AZ-FE motor in the next few months. These new products will coincide with the continued development of our TimeAttack turbo scion tc

MrC

shizzzon

I thought H-Beams were the strongest?
I'm not the smartest when it comes to internals but i've been told that even if it's rated for 1KHP+ that they can still become damaged far below that, such as let's say 500hp... although i do not know what would contribute to that unless the cams\pistons or somethin in the engine prevented the rods from properly functioning... I'm just rambling and thinking while i type,

leekeestc

very very nice how much for install lol j/k

etsnet

iTrader: (2)

Thought rods couldn't be rated by hp. I have seen these rods on another unnamed site and they do look pretty strong.

Simplyscion

You dont really hear about I-Beams as often...there more for your hardcore built track car enthusiasts...Manley is the first company ive seen actually offer an I Beam rod...and its kinda hard to put a whp rating on rods as there are many different factors that would come into play...tuning being the main one. A horrible tune will destroy any rods at any hp level no matter what they are rated at...they will just obviously take more of a beating than stock rods would but eventually would give out. If your looking into I-Beam rods for your car, than a tune will be the least of your worries...getting that power to the ground after building a 1,000whp monster is what gets ya on a FWD car

shizzzon

How much?

......$2.69

Guest

The I-beam or tapered I-beam (aka A-beam) is superior in strength, in design. You are correct, that no matter how how strong the rods are, if your engine detonates or you snap a rod bolt, the rod can hit the crank or block and still bend. But unless your motor is putting out more than 1000hp, these rods will not bend. If you build a 1500hp tc, let me know and I can have the rods machined out of forged 300m steel--they won't be cheap but they'll hold up.

The I-beam designed is the same concept as the I-beams used to hold up building and rail-road tracks. Manley, Crower, Oliver, Cunningham, etc. all use an I-beam design for their hi-end rods. The only high-end H-beam rods are made by Carillo--an the expense is in the manufacturing process and rod bolts.

Keep in mind that a rod design is only as good as the forging, metallurgy, machining, tolerance, and rod bolts that were used to manufacturer the rods. So yes, you can have a good H-beam rod that's stronger than a cheaply manufacturer I-beam rod.

MrC

shizzzon

ah, but i tell you what, i doubt anyone will EVER see a tC still using the same block to even reach 1000hp so not only do i doubt, but nothing will require a strength to surpass these rods.

Oh, and they are for the best price too!

blown_xa

you serious tC owners are in for a treat, these rods are just the tip of the iceburg on what PTuning will offer for some awsome power acheivments. The customer service @ Ptuning is unsurpassed, and the products that will be offered for the serious racer will have been tested to the fullest, and items WILL be ready for shipping... If you see them on the website, it is availible for shipment, unlike some other places (not getting into that lol). Now i wish i had a tC.

VIET_BOX

hmmm, jus wondering why this thread dropped fast. Maybe these rods should be advertised at the track for serious racers.?? I know some of u are serious, right?????

shizzzon

when it comes to anything, i usually by the best out there. So if i were wanting to make 300hp, then i'd buy these, plain and simple.

etsnet

iTrader: (2)

I think most of the real serious buyers already bought their stuff (me included). I'm sure there will be a batch of new builders soon.

blown_xa

cool yo

yamaha16bw

I'm in the market....hehe. How much block notching is required with these rods or do we know yet?

ucyib2papi

viet quit being a pusher and get back to the xb forums
i wouldnt mind getting these if i had money or a real job. sigh

Guru

I use these rods all the time on BIG power 4 cylinders and VQ's. Awesome rods and can take anything you can dish out. Come with ARP2000 hardware too. Basically top of the line. I need a set myself for a project I am working on.

cessblood

I'm going to look into this. I have been looking for some good rods for my baby.

krazylowgsx

they are only $730? for I-Beams? My carillo A-Beams were like $600!

Guest

You will need to clearance the bottom of the cylinder bore since these rods and most aftermarket rods uses a much larger rod beam on the big-end and because the cylinder bore centerline is offset from the crankshaft centerline, this causes the rod beam to contact the bottom of the cylinder wall on the upstroke cycle. On other inline engines with a 96mm stroke, this is usually not necessary.

Toyota designed the 2az-fe block with a cylinder bore centerline offset from the crank centerline. The 96mm is quite long for any engine. The problem with having a motor with such a long stroke is that the angle of the connecting rod (in relation with the piston to the crank) is more extreme. This extreme angle can cause excessive side loads on the piston skirts, resulting in premature cylinder and piston skirt wear. I believe Toyota took this into consideration by offsetting the cylinder bore center line with the crank. On the downstroke or more specific the power stroke, the angle of the rods are more in line with a shorter stroke crank, but on the upstroke stroke (compression & exhaust) the angle is more like a 100+ mm stroke. The important thing here is that the power stroke creates the most wear and load on the pistons and cylinder wall and this was address by offseting the cylinder center line with the crank and effectively reducing the side load on the cylinder wall. This is the first 4 cylinder that i've come across with this offset design--very clever idea.

MrC

vettereddie

Anything available for the 1NZ-FE? Didn't see anything listed on the site in the way of internals.