rodlandscion

does the down pipe to s pipe c connection have a gasket in between it? also, will my car run incredibly rich (10.5 afr) until I drive the car, because I haven't driven yet and it's doing this....

Joe_Dezod

There's a doughnut gasket that goes there. It's a black ring type gasket.

It's running 10.5 at idle and you've never driven it? It should run at 14.7 idle once the engine is fully warmed up. How long have you left it idle for?

rodlandscion

probably about 5 minutes. What's happened now twice is I rev it or try to drive it and then I get a cel. And I've got a pretty decent amount of smoke coming out the back. Also, I didn't mean to ask about the downpipe connection, I actually meant the s-pipe to the midpipe (is this what the next pipe is called?). I have a small leak there but the only other gasket included in the kit doesn't fit there. However, it does fit in the downpipe to spipe connection. Did I reveive the wrong gasket?

satoman44

just trim the gasket bolt hole, thats what i did and it fits.

rodlandscion

Now I've got even more problems. I switched around the jumper settings what they should be (on the dezod site) but now my car won't start and just smells of fuel. So now I'm thinking that either that messed things up or maybe my sparks plugs are fouled out from the car just idling crazy rich. Also I seem to be still leaking oil from where the compressor housing and downpipe meet up...which is very bad. Is there a gasket that's supposed to go in between there anyway?

rodlandscion

The return line is done correctly, as well as the feed line. I will be posting pictures soon. It has already been checked out by turbonetics and they said it was fine. Very strange...

soros151

w3atching

Prototype_xB

sounds like an emanage map problem with the injectors. Shouldn't run that rich. Call Paul. The gasket for the s-pipe to midpipe connection that comes with the kit is too big. I had to run out and find my own. The only hole in the exhaust plumbing i have that you can hear now is from the slip fit dump after a cold crank. At operating temp, it's somewhat sealed.

Prototype_xB

From my experience i've fouled a set of BKR7's in a matter of days on the base map, so def check your plugs. If so, step down to something 1 step colder than stock. I'm on BKR6's and they've seen their share of fuel too and are holding strong.

You mean your leaking oil from where the exhaust housing and downpipe meet up? Compressor housing's on the other side of the turbo. Now are you leaking oil between the exhaust housing and the downpipe flange, or are you leaking oil from the return barb fitting on the underside of the journal bearing? Did you use high temp RTV sealant? I have no leaks, but have found oil around the top of the feed barb fitting.

rodlandscion

No I can literally see oil coming out from between the downpipe and turbo on the exhaust side. Before it was actually squirting out when revved, so i sent to to t-netics. They said it was fine and sent it back. I put it back together and nothing happened. Maybe the slightest bit of residual oil and water from when I washed my manifold to get the oil out of it. So I was excited cause it was running fine. The next morning, I come out to start it, car doesn't start, and I see oil leaked from the same spot and it runs down the downpipe. Ridiculous. Also, My car runs with a relatively normal idle (about 900 rpms...). Obviously there's a mixture of things going on here.....

rhythmnsmoke

Pics will clear up a lot of confusion.

malloynx

t-netics turbos are notorious for leaking. what type of oil lines are you running? do you need an oil restrictor?


pull off your intake a see if there is oil in the compressor housing. also if your leaking il that bad in the exhaust your lambda sensor my be shot causing driveability concerns.

is there anyway you can retrieve DTC's ??

rodlandscion

I'm running the dezod stage 1 kit. I will pull off my intake and report back in a bit...

rodlandscion

and I know you're trying to help but I have no idea what dtc's are lol...can you explain?

rodlandscion

And as far as I'm concerned this is getting pretty ridiculous. I mean this kit cost over four grand of my hard earned money, and to have problems of this magnitude to me is completely unacceptable...I mean there are problems, and there are PROBLEMS...I just hope no one else with a dezod kit has to deal with this kind of headache.

malloynx

dtc's are diagnostic trouble codes.

(check engine light)

malloynx

i'm trying to help you , but i need more info..

is the car driveable?
do you have a cel?
is the cel flashing?
what are you running for managment?
who did the wiring?
how much oil are you losing?
do you have access to a D.M.M ( multi-meter)

if i have more info i can point you in the right direction..

rodlandscion

1.Not until I change my fouled out spark plugs...
2.Yes, but it came on after a few minutes of the car idling, when revved.
3.No
4. Emanage Blue
5.Plug n Play dezod harness
6.Not entirely sure, not much at this point but i am billowing white smoke.
7. Yes

malloynx

are you blowing smoke on start-up or all the time. white smoke at start-up is normal and that is just the condensation burning off from the night before.

if your smoking at operating temp. then we have a problem. i'm concerned that your lambda sensor is saturated with residue and is not functioning properly.

here is what you need to do. remove the emanage for now and see if the problem goes away. we need to pinpoint the system that is causing this. i want to take the emanage out of the equation.

so unplug the pnp harness and go back to the stock ecu. reset it. (pull negative cable for about 10mins)

see if the car runs better just using the factory ecu. don't boost the car or nothing like that. we are concerned with driveabilty at this point.

also if you do this, the car will run crappy for the first couple of minute until a drive cycle is completed.

lmk how the car runs at that point.


*ninja edit.. are you sure the smoke is white. white incidicates coolant is burning, and white with a blue tint is usually oil burning. if you could check your fluild levels both coolant and oil.

Joe_Dezod

White smoke will come out if you unplug the MAF and plug it back in without resetting the ECU. It could just be something electronic.


Have you completely reset the ECU yet? Post up some pictures of your oil return line setup and how you have the feed and all the stuff run. I remember talking to Paul about your Turbo and turbonetics was pretty adiment with him in the turbo being in working order. If it is indeed the turbo we'll take care of you of course. I'd like to see how you have your oil lines set up though.

Definately reset the ECU. And you can unplug the emanage all together for idle. You would have to unplug the entire PnP harness though, not just the emanage.

Let us know how it goes.