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Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

Rod bearing clearnces?

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Old 07-08-2009 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RSracer
Originally Posted by ElevationTC
Originally Posted by gingles
i hear ya man.......you are torqing the main caps to spec right? 30ft lbs then 90 degrees

im not assembling the motor.. CFT is. im going to call today
Don't use OEM main bolts. Get ARP studs and have them align bored the block. Send you head to RLZengineering. The do the head work for most of the big team, like Tony Palo and Leslie Durst...

I set my clearances to 19 to 21 on both my main and rods. using calico coated ACL. I decided that after talking on the phone with Horizon motor sports (scion team).

the motor was aline bored.. crank is fully balanced. crank is fully polished. i had the oil feeds on crank notched for extra oil flow. each rod is fully balanced from heavist to lightest rod. basically a fully balacned rotating assembly. bs removed. carrila a beams je 9-1 pistons race bearings arp head studs
Old 07-08-2009 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ElevationTC
Originally Posted by RSracer
Originally Posted by ElevationTC
Originally Posted by gingles
i hear ya man.......you are torqing the main caps to spec right? 30ft lbs then 90 degrees

im not assembling the motor.. CFT is. im going to call today
Don't use OEM main bolts. Get ARP studs and have them align bored the block. Send you head to RLZengineering. The do the head work for most of the big team, like Tony Palo and Leslie Durst...

I set my clearances to 19 to 21 on both my main and rods. using calico coated ACL. I decided that after talking on the phone with Horizon motor sports (scion team).

the motor was aline bored.. crank is fully balanced. each rod is fully balanced from heavist to lightest rod. basically a fully balacned rotating assembly. bs removed. carrila a beams je 9-1 pistons race bearings arp head studs
Awesome, sounds like a kick @ss motor. The only thing I'm saying is that you have to get it align bored for studs if you do use the ARP stud which I think should be used. The alignment of the crank journals will alter when usingstud since they apply the tourqe pressure differently.

Originally Posted by gingles
NOOOOOOOOOOBBBBBBBB(to me)...........i used my oem main bolts.......there not tty so you can reuse them.
What!?!? you obviously have no idea what you are talking about. the additional 90 degrees of tourqe is the tourqe to yeild... I hope you paid someone to build your engine.

Do you feel cool trying to be an @ss??
Old 07-08-2009 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RSracer
Originally Posted by ElevationTC
Originally Posted by RSracer
Originally Posted by ElevationTC
Originally Posted by gingles
i hear ya man.......you are torqing the main caps to spec right? 30ft lbs then 90 degrees

im not assembling the motor.. CFT is. im going to call today
Don't use OEM main bolts. Get ARP studs and have them align bored the block. Send you head to RLZengineering. The do the head work for most of the big team, like Tony Palo and Leslie Durst...

I set my clearances to 19 to 21 on both my main and rods. using calico coated ACL. I decided that after talking on the phone with Horizon motor sports (scion team).

the motor was aline bored.. crank is fully balanced. each rod is fully balanced from heavist to lightest rod. basically a fully balacned rotating assembly. bs removed. carrila a beams je 9-1 pistons race bearings arp head studs
Awesome, sounds like a kick @ss motor. The only thing I'm saying is that you have to get it align bored for studs if you do use the ARP stud which I think should be used. The alignment of the crank journals will alter when usingstud since they apply the tourqe pressure differently.

Originally Posted by gingles
NOOOOOOOOOOBBBBBBBB(to me)...........i used my oem main bolts.......there not tty so you can reuse them.
What!?!? you obviously have no idea what you are talking about. the additional 90 degrees of tourqe is the tourqe to yeild... I hope you paid someone to build your engine.

Do you feel cool trying to be an @ss??

If i buy these would it have to be remachined?

and possible link to these bad boys?
Old 07-08-2009 | 02:27 PM
  #24  
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Old 07-08-2009 | 04:41 PM
  #25  
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how come you guys are using such large gaps in clerences?

Rod bearing oil clearances
IN.0009-.0019
MM.024-.048

Main bearings
IN.0007-.0016
MM.017-.040

^^^^

is there a specific reason your not using the same amount of clearance for each individual bearing for the rod and crank?
Old 07-08-2009 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TCpete
how come you guys are using such large gaps in clerences?

Rod bearing oil clearances
IN.0009-.0019
MM.024-.048

Main bearings
IN.0007-.0016
MM.017-.040

^^^^

is there a specific reason your not using the same amount of clearance for each individual bearing for the rod and crank?

The machinst told me this..


Those clearences are for a 165 hp stock motor.

There designed to be ran with 5w30 oil..

at stock rev limit.


New motor 450-500 whp
rev to 7000
usuing 10w40

he said to use a little bit bigger of a clearnce.

Im not sure if this is true or not.. but he said this will solve a oiling issue these blocks have?
Old 07-08-2009 | 04:57 PM
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which clearences are you using mike? .... but also... are those number just a gauge of where the clearances should be between "on each individual bearing" when installed... or does lets says.. rod 1 require THIS number and rod 2 require THIS OTHER number...

basically.. im asking if all lets say "crank bearings" use the exact same amount of clearance...

when i have built the last 3 blocks ive made sure all 4 crank bearings used the same bearing clearance and all 4 rod bearings used the same clearance numbers..
Old 07-08-2009 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ElevationTC

If i buy these would it have to be remachined?

and possible link to these bad boys?
Yea the bad thing is you will need to have the align hone redone. You can find them on Ptunings website, thats where I picked mine up. Pretty sure they put them in their shortblocks as well.

It's a tough call becuase of the lack of people going big in power, so we don't have many "lessons learn" type of problems to build from. I just hate how the stock main bolt neck down pretty thin. I just had toooo much into my engine to let one bolt breakage ruin it all.
Old 07-09-2009 | 07:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gingles
NOOOOOOOOOOBBBBBBBB(to me)...........i used my oem main bolts.......there not tty so you can reuse them.
While they are not TTY and "can" reuse them that would be a bad idea. The middle of the shank is undercut and has a diameter stretch spec of 7.5mm in the FSM. That means the bolt is as strong as a 7.5mm bolt.......

main studs. get them.
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