TimmyT

The entire boost tangent was, the reliablility discussion on this thread.

Turbos are full boost sooner than a s/c becuse of how it is driven. So generally a sc engine goes under a lil less stress than a turbo charged engine. (wich is probably why toyota went with the s/c instead of a turbo where they most definitly would have to R&D the 2az to meet toyota standards etc)

But comes the redline. to get the full benefit from a sc you need redline. and thats rough on your car too.

For a daily driver though with occaisional spirited driving a s/c will probably last quite some time. Again why toyo probably went with the s/c instead of a turbo set up.

Like the rest of us though. I am pleased with the #s the trd supercharger can put out.

Wich brings me to another tangent.

Me personally, I would put a s/c on a lower revving car as opposed to a high revving car, and a tubo on a high revving car as opposed to a low revving car.

because a s/c running 7 psi on a 6.5k revving car like the tc hits 7 psi at 6.5 k,
and a 9k car like an rsx-s or something similar hits it a 9k rpm.

So a tC is running more boost all the way through the RPMs compared to the rsx-s.

But a turbo on a high revving car is better because of full boost at 3k rpm.. so you have about 6k left at full boost b4 you need to shift.
Where the tC would have about 3.5k at full boost b4 needing to shift.

However.. the RSX will always be lacking the low end compared to the tC so its kind of a trade off. Wich is why the tC is so boost friendly in both s/c and turbo apps.

hPower

Very well said Timmy

garyc_01

well i love turbos i mean i use to own a turbo toyota but... u may make more hp then a sc overall performance but one thing the sc still has the advanage is carb stamped!! after 4 years will u still have ur car? can u pass inspect? could u sell it? better then a sc? you think it would be easier 2 sell then a sc? and its made by trd? mite still have 1 year warranty on it? thats all i have to say and yes when i had my turbo car it was an alltrac stock turbo
lundy good luch with ur sc with 12psi man sorry to steal ur thread

notintheface

are you running 12 psi on stock bottom? Also try portting the heads for better flow and maybe in the future get some zpi turbo pistoms (i think they are 8:0 compression also these are sugestions for future mods)


Srry if this is a stupid question but how much psi can the stock bottom even take before detonation happens?

tc2nut4

well mine took about 10 psi and it blew however ZPIs pistons are 8.5:1 and they just released their forged pistons... i'd port the SC first for anyone tryint to maintain their warranty... easy 5-10 horses and 9 outta 10 dealerships won't slam you for a warranty void if something gets jacked... just a thought for those of you out there smart enough to not touch the pulley/tamperproof cap (unlike me who ate a motor)

tc2nut4

for those of you willing/brave enough to ____ away your warranty... i'm with you!! You only live once and you can't take money with ya!! Boost da Biatch!!!! Impressive numbers you put down though i must say i'm impressed i just might have to build my bottom end from my blown motor and put that SC on that motor with the smallest pulley i can find!! Maybe something the size of a half dollar would be good LOL... Keep us posted with some more numbers im interested to see what that injection will do for ya...

Joe_Dezod

What kind of torque is everyone making with the 9 or 12psi pulls? Is it still keeping up with the HP?

Scion-ce

I don't think it ever was keeping up with the HP (thanks to TRD). stock s/c tC dynoes about 195whp and about 180wtq. Because of the conservative TRD reflash, its raelly hard to get that tq number up there with HP

kytc

Yeah torque is lagging behind hp from every graph I've seen. Maybe I can change that this summer with either an AEM ems or Dezods new super secret project

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

I hope u are keeping up w/ that SC thread where people are saying that they voided their warranty because of their header. Also - a few dealers said that having an intake on the SC will also void. I was all about getting a header then SC untill 2 weeks ago.

betaomega369

Regardless of what any dealer says, simply adding a component WILL NOT void your warranty. For a warranty to be void, the manufacturer (in this case, the Toyota service department) must prove that the aftermarket add-on was the direct cause of the failure. This is federal law, 15 USC, Section 2301. It specifically states:

No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer’s using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this sub-section may be waived by the Commission if

1. the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and
2. the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.

In other words, Toyota cannot void the S/C warranty unless they can prove that the S/C will function properly ONLY when using the stock intake. The only possible way for them to void the S/C warranty is if the stock intake is covered under the S/C warranty. Same goes for anything else on the vehicle. They must prove that the stock parts are the ONLY parts for which the vehicle will function properly.

When Toyota, or any other automobile manufacturer, tells you this, they are in effect tying the warranty to their products, which is a violation of the Sherman Antitrust Act of 1890, 15 UCSA, Section 1.

You have the right to make any modifications that you wish. The burden of proof lies on the manufacturer. They simply cannot void the warranty because the part is on the car.

kytc

Except for the pulley because it is specifically named in the warranty papers

betaomega369

Cool...I have no idea what is named in the actual warranty papers, so I was just making the statements in general. As long as it the part is provided free of charge under the S/C warranty, it is the only part that can go on without voiding the warranty.

cessblood

I'm glad I read this forum. I was thinking for replacing my 9lb ZPI pulley for the 9.5 NST pulley because I want better quality. Which one has the better quality ZPI pulley or the NST pulley?

lundy

The NST seems better. However I used both one after another without a single problem with any of them. I dont know if I would change out the ZPI for the NST if you already have the ZPI. They both work really good.

navylife59

Want 50PSI Boost that is instantaneously available, at all RPMs, does not run off a belt? Try installing an APU (Auxiallary Power Unit). These gas turbines readily create and maintain 50PSI to air start jet engines. Suggest the F-18F Hornet APUs beause of the small size and can run off kerosene or diesel. Might be a lil LOUD for daily driving but would sure kick some **** at the track.

Just thinking out of the box. Time to go back to work at Taco Bell

rhythmnsmoke

navylife59

laugh now, but you can make a turbo into a gas turbine setup with sme simple mods. Prob wouldn't be sufficient for bleed air (boost in this case).

rhythmnsmoke

It sounded like an infomercial...

cessblood

This guy want to buy the ZPI pulley from me. I should sell it to him and get the 9.5 NST pulley. I will get profit because I got a good deal for the ZPI pulley. I just want better quality