rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

I've heard alot of speculation about what is "street safe" in regards to AFR's on turbo'd TC's. As some of you may already know, I'm using the turbonetics V2 kit (watercooled). When cruising, my AFR according to the UEGO is 12.5. I've heard it should be near 15 but otherwise that's just hurting fuel economy and spark plug wear (no big deal). Under boost, what is the best AFR I should be aiming for? I'm currently not having any problems but plan on having the F/IC retuned when I up the boost to 9.5 psi. Right now it is at 8. To make things more simple, what is the "danger to manifold" AFR to watch out for while under WOT full boost? Thanks in advance.

jwaggz82

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wow - yea cruzing you should be at around 15.5 and at WOT you should be at around 11.5 - mid thottle should be around 13.5ish

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

11-13 under boost is safe, 14.5-15.5 is safe for cruising.

Lean out your cruise. 12.5 is horrible.

rangerryda

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I figured under 13 is safe for <10 psi with the F/IC. I need to adjust a few things to get my AF up a little higher during cruising. Ugh I hate messing with the FIC but such is the life of a turbo TC

CarbonXe

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Just go get the car tuned.

Mrsanchez925

under WOT my AFRS hit 10.

but while cruising im between 14.7 - 15.5

RusWolf

iTrader: (3)

^^^ 10 at WOT thats extremely rich.

your cruising is excellent.

rangerryda

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just added .5 more boost and did a few pulls, the AFR at WOT start at 12 then drop to about 11. The car is still pulling hard and driving/idling perfectly. I fully intend on taking it to the shop and getting a proper tune on it ($500) <--yikes. 9.5 psi on otherwise stock motor is considered safe correct? I'm aiming for 300 whp. Will this get me pretty close to that? At 7.5 psi I managed 261 whp on this same tune on a Superflow Dyno. It was about 85 degrees and 74% humidity during the pull on an operating temp motor. As I said before, this is the watercooled Turbonetics Setup with AEM F/IC and tune supplied by Turbokits.com. I'm assuming as I gradually increase boost (now at 8.5), the ECU relearns the curves and corrects it best it can given the current loaded tune. If anyone else runs a T-Netics kit and has a similar setup, please feel free to PM me. Thanks guys.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

2psi + tuning != 40WHP.

rangerryda

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Thats what I figured but my only boosted experience before going turbo last month was on DSM's and they are a whole different animal. After the power I want is reached, I'll have to save up a bit get my new clutch and LSD installed. I'm not sure that I'm up for doing that myself. Looked up a few DIY's on it and it makes me want to cry. lol

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

I highly suggest you turn the boost down until you can afford a proper tune and clutch.

And get motor mounts if you don't already. Clutch + tune + motor mounts = best $800 you can ever spend.

Oh and don't forget to factor in either a new flywheel or getting your stock flywheel resurfaced. Anytime you change the clutch, you HAVE to resurface the flywheel or replace it.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

clutch is a long process for a first timer...i had my cherry poped a couple of months ago, deff helps to have someone who has done it on the tc with ya.

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

I'll have it tuned very shortly. I don't really go WOT when I'm not at the track (mostly due to gas prices). I'll get a lightweight flywheel when I do the clutch but as far as 800 bucks goes... I doubt that'll cover half of the work that needs to be done. I gotta get an LSD, clutch, and tune + all the labor because I've never done a clutch on a FWD.

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

its not all that bad but like i said its a _____ for a first timer on a fwd.

pwee08

iTrader: (7)

i say your best things to get first are a tune, motor mounts, then clutch. A LSD is not needed right now. I'd rather know my car is tuned and wont blow the motor on boost spikes or w.e then getting a LSD..

rangerryda

iTrader: (1)

Only reason I want to get and LSD is so that the motor and tranny don't have to be cracked apart twice (which cost more in labor) and if I ease into second gear WOT I get stupid wheelspin. My torque is still through the roof and actually higher than my HP. 2500 RPM's and up in low gear...this thing is nuts! Very fun though, but Pirelli's ain't cheap. The tune will be done first of course but in the meantime I am not running any real risk of blowing the motor. It's just wasting fuel and putting a little more wear on the plugs. I'm most definitely not running lean. Just gotta pay down the credit card a bit and get the flywheel, clutch, and LSD done all at once to minimize labor cost.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

The 800 was in reference to the clutch/flywheel/tune alone. I dropped $2500 to get my clutch, flywheel, and motor mounts installed and have my car tuned (plus some other stuff).

10sec05

wow you people are crazy.. thats a lot of $

I spent $300 on a clutch $50 to resurface flywheel and $60 on mounts
tune was $300

free labor when you do the work yourself


get slicks before you get LSD.. if you still feel you need a LSD go for it
There is a large labor difference between a clutch install and a clutch/LSD install.

colder spark plugs most likely wont fire if you are running a 10 AFR

Disconnect your primary o2 sensor.. no more re-learning.

ecko04

Motor mounts BEFORE LSD. You need to experience the difference and how much wheel hop is lost before you decide to dump $2000 on an LSD and install.

Motor mounts, clutch(?), tune (GOOD TUNE) and you will likely be happy.

Motor mounts - Energy suspension $60
Clutch - CC Stage 4 ~$260, install ~$400 (Do it yourself with 2 sets of metric and standard regular and deep sockets, a 30mm 12point impact socket, an air tool capable of exceeding 150 ft/lb of torque)
Tune - $300 - $600 ish

You don't need to go around boosting until you get that.

AFR's 10 is really rich but if it dips that rich and recovers to 11 - 13 you're fine but that can be fixed with more tuning.

Cruise should be as close to stoich as possible 14.4 - 15.5

Do not disconnect your O2

10sec05

Its a 30mm 12 point for the axle nut - you need a deep socket

If your primary o2 is not disconnected your ECU will pull fuel over time
Our ECUs are VERY advanced