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ScionGT35R 476whp@19psi pics all over

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Old 12-15-2007, 09:04 PM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by masafina
En que ha quedado el carro?????
me he perdido un poco jajajajajjajajaja

I just received a call today from the machine shop saying that my parts are ready. We will reassembly the engine next weekend. Also we are looking to buy a water/meth kit.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mecanica_Pito
Originally Posted by masafina
En que ha quedado el carro?????
me he perdido un poco jajajajajjajajaja

I just received a call today from the machine shop saying that my parts are ready. We will reassembly the engine next weekend. Also we are looking to buy a water/meth kit.



Nice option! Better COOLING! WOHOOO!! 600WHP! Here they GO!
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:15 AM
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Any track times? I didn't bother going through 28 pages.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:20 AM
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I don't believe this car has been on the track yet..
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Any track times? I didn't bother going through 28 pages.
He had problems on the dyno and waiting for the crank to be done. A bolt from the oil pump came off and I think blocked the oil from getting in there. So no track times yet.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by etsnet
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Any track times? I didn't bother going through 28 pages.
He had problems on the dyno and waiting for the crank to be done. A bolt from the oil pump came off and I think blocked the oil from getting in there. So no track times yet.
ooo that sounds like he might need to get his turbo repaired if the oil pump failed!
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:30 AM
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Damn. I figured the 476whp numbers were solid with no problems. So, he had problems when the 476 was done. Good numbers by the way.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:35 AM
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From page 20...


Originally Posted by Mecanica_Pito
Well, We opened the bottom end today and found the root cause of the problem. The nut that holds the oil pump sprocket to the oil pump got loose and falled in the oil pan where it was sucked by the oil pickup tube.


You can see the nut inside the pickup tube here.....


This confirms what I said before opening the engine. The problem was caused by lubrication failure but not because of the higher rev limit as it was caused by the oil pump failing to work because of the nut that is supposed to hold it.

The sad part is the crankshaft is damaged but salvageable and the K1 connecting rods are OK. We will keep you guys informed of the next step as sonn as we decide what to do. We might resize the cranksahft or install a new one. We will see....

Pito
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mightygnu
ooo that sounds like he might need to get his turbo repaired if the oil pump failed!
The engine had low oil pressure and was shut down before the oil pressure dropped to zero.
Additionally we have a Peterson fluids oil filter before the turbo in case something like this happened! It has a 60 micron filter element and can be cleaned or replaced.


Pito
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:10 PM
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Pito, you are up early....
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:25 PM
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Few more questions for Pito or any one with the knowledge...

is the RPM signal that the TC outputs "5volt DIGITAL"?
or is it an ANALOG signal?

also is the "throttle position sensor a switching-type?

props to one of the most helpful threads on SL!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugetsu
Few more questions for Pito or any one with the knowledge...
is the RPM signal that the TC outputs "5volt DIGITAL"?
or is it an ANALOG signal?
I have to check that on my notes as I don't remember
Originally Posted by Mugetsu
.....also is the "throttle position sensor a switching-type?!!
Nope. The TPS outputs a linear rising voltage that goes from 0 to 5v!!
Originally Posted by Mugetsu
props to one of the most helpful threads on SL!!
Thank you!!
Pito
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:20 AM
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What did you guys do to install the ARP head studs? Does it need to be taken to a machine shop to make the holes bigger or can it be done with a drill press?
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Old 12-19-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by etsnet
What did you guys do to install the ARP head studs? Does it need to be taken to a machine shop to make the holes bigger or can it be done with a drill press?
The ARP head bolts are a direct fit to the engine. You don't need to modify anything to install them: just hand tight them in the block and use the supplied moly lube on the nut!

Pito
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Mugetsu
.....is the RPM signal that the TC outputs "5volt DIGITAL"?
or is it an ANALOG signal?.....
According to the FSM the TACH wire on the tC outputs a 12v digital signal!
This is true for 2005-2007!

Pito
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Old 12-19-2007, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mecanica_Pito
Originally Posted by etsnet
What did you guys do to install the ARP head studs? Does it need to be taken to a machine shop to make the holes bigger or can it be done with a drill press?
The ARP head bolts are a direct fit to the engine. You don't need to modify anything to install them: just hand tight them in the block and use the supplied moly lube on the nut!

Pito
Sweet! Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:05 PM
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Thanks for the answers Pito.

your willingness to share knowledge is outstanding!
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:42 PM
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Can you explain to me which intercooler piping you used. Which bends how many..etc

thanks =P
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:30 PM
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what's up Pito? I've been wanting to log in and check status of roberto's car bit I've been super busy... Retail at Xmas times kills me! I was gonna call roberto too, but i dont even have time. So you making any progress with the whip?
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rob35aaa
Can you explain to me which intercooler piping you used. Which bends how many..etc
thanks =P
All the piping (from the intake to I/C pipes and all the exhaust) is custom made. The fabricator uses 90 degree mandrel bends and cuts and welds them according to the shape he wants to make!

The Intake pipe is 4" in diameter. The I/C pipes are 3" and also all the exhaust is 3".

Pito
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