So close to getting a ZPI Turbo Kit, but...
#41
Originally Posted by N-Dawg
OK, It maybe better and net more HP if I tune w/emange, but I can live without it for a few months, right? I know budget boosting is a no-no and It shouldn't be done, but I'm not trying to create a drag monster, I just want my car to have more *****. I'm not a crazy driver so I'll rarely hit boost. If i don't hit boost will my A/F readings still be around 14's at partial throttle? Why does it run so lean on partial throttle?
I guess you must missed the part that I've been running it for over a year...
#42
Senior Member
Team No Limitz
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Smithtown Scion (NY)
Posts: 3,789
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Originally Posted by Simplyscion
so all bs aside...do you honestly think you can tune a car...worry free, solid tune to last many miles to come? Have you ever done it before or is your knowledge of tuning stemmed from looking over kennys shoulder once or twice?
What are you trying to prove? I didn't say I can tune, so what are you getting at? I didn't make claims to be able to tune with my eyes close or something. And how are to learn without looking over Someone is a tunner? Is there something you trying to get at Vito, cause I have never made claims to do something I can't.
I guess you must be one of those dudes that was born knowing how to tune right? Man, I WISH I could be as good as you man.
Hear that everyone, you can't tune an E-manage, unless you were born knowing how too, like Vito was....
jk
#43
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Originally Posted by N-Dawg
OK, It maybe better and net more HP if I tune w/emange, but I can live without it for a few months, right? I know budget boosting is a no-no and It shouldn't be done, but I'm not trying to create a drag monster, I just want my car to have more *****. I'm not a crazy driver so I'll rarely hit boost. If i don't hit boost will my A/F readings still be around 14's at partial throttle? Why does it run so lean on partial throttle?
I guess you must missed the part that I've been running it for over a year...
Yeah, but you've been running emanage, something I wasn't planning on doing, but now I think it's a must
#44
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Secondly, E-manage seems to be user friendly, and with a few extra bucks and the support tool, you can tune it yourself....Don't get any cheaper than that. You don't have to have a dyno session just to tune your car you know.... Raise Eyebrow
Are you implying the Blue box is NOT reliable? Been boosted for over a year now, and race just about EVERY weekend. 10 PSI, Stock block.....if that aint reliable I don't know what is.
Again, your telling everyone what we already know.....Ultimate is better. I would hope so, seeing as how it cost more...
I would be the type of person that left the Blue box on my car just to prove a point.... Look man, just because you had problems on your rsx with it, doesn't mean it's obsolete. tC = different car than your rsx. Not to mention that you fighting a loosing battle as 80% of all the boosted tC's on here are more than likely running the Blue Box. And running it just fine.
PeteyD is an entirely different case all together......He Was AUTO tranny dude. That's why he should have went Ultimate. As 90-95% of the Auto boosted tC's on here go with the Ultimate, cause it works better for AUTO tranny tC's. Blue Box runs just fine and has been on the Manuals.
Peteyd was ZPI's first wasnt he? He had direct connections with ZPI. If they knew it'd work better, why did they not suggest it for his setup?? So much for ZPI right?
LOL, I always love that statement..."trade it in for a faster one"....for what? So you can NOT mod it? Compare the price of an exhaust system for the tC....oh at most $400-$500 bucks...Now, go trade it in for a 350Z like mine....your exhasut now cost $1200 bucks....GET THE PICTURE.... I do well enough to mod both, but I can mod the tC a LOT faster because it's parts are cheaper. Hence the reason people go by Junkyard Beaters and poor the money into them to make 10 sec cars, cause they can do it for Dirt cheap.
PS...just give it a rest already. You are not going to convert the entire F/I section into purchasing the Ultimate. Cause I'll just turn around and make another vid of me walking on STI's and Evo's all with the Blue Box, to which would be enough power for most on here to be happy with. It's not the equipment bro, it's the tuner. If your stuff blows up, it's because of a faulty tune, not because the E-manage sucks.
#45
Originally Posted by N-Dawg
Well I know that Turbo kits run at like 14.7:1 AFR when on partial throttle, regardless of Emanage (excluding Dezod's Black Box). Does running this lean at partial throttle risk my engine to fail? I know the ZPI & treadstone kits run at mid 11's AFR when at WOT (without emanage) so why do I need to get emanage if I'm going to stay at the pre set PSI which I believe is 6psi? No reason really to buy the emanage is you're sticking to mild boost kit. Once I want more boost then I think I'll need to purchase Emange & Tune.
tuning is more than just messing with air and fuel. you have tons of other sensors/readings you need to compensate for. Engine knock, ignition timing in relation to MAF/MAP values, ECT, IAT, etc etc.
its silly to think you can get by with just a/f tuning. it wont last. rythmsmoke, come back in a couple years and rub it in my face please. i would LOVE to be wrong about emanage blue b/c it'll provide a cheap, yet SOLID solution to tuning. but in reality, it just wont happen.
#46
Originally Posted by Simplyscion
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Originally Posted by Simplyscion
so all bs aside...do you honestly think you can tune a car...worry free, solid tune to last many miles to come? Have you ever done it before or is your knowledge of tuning stemmed from looking over kennys shoulder once or twice?
What are you trying to prove? I didn't say I can tune, so what are you getting at? I didn't make claims to be able to tune with my eyes close or something. And how are to learn without looking over Someone is a tunner? Is there something you trying to get at Vito, cause I have never made claims to do something I can't.
I guess you must be one of those dudes that was born knowing how to tune right? Man, I WISH I could be as good as you man.
Hear that everyone, you can't tune an E-manage, unless you were born knowing how too, like Vito was....
jk
You know I'm known for smoking people, not my tunning ability.... But I'll tune when I get around to it, you know I have my own career, this is just a hobby.
#47
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
dont need a dyno session?? i guess you never really do any sort of REAL tuning right? you need to know how much timing to advance/retard on the dyno. you do not know whether advancing it will make anymore power or actually hurt HP.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
yes, i'm implying that your motor's reliability will be on the edge. Granted you may havea solid tune, but you cant expect it to run at that efficiency forever. Reliability=more than just a year, buddy. Try 3+years, 30k+miles, passing compression test with flying colors, go without any check engine lights, etc
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Again, your telling everyone what we already know.....Ultimate is better. I would hope so, seeing as how it cost more...
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
dude, i never had a problem with my rsx. I have Hondata Kpro, a full standalone system. Oh, and i made my own circuit board for it to work on my RSX auto. Which is why i'm the only automatic rsx running the Kpro system. Kpro is the reason why the K-series are so easy to tune and modify without worries of reliablity. In an R&D project i did a couple years ago, it was testing the effectiveness of piggyback systems on newer OBDII cars (not just Honda-specific) to see if they are still great for today's applications. The results did not come out so great. Engine management and its sensors all require the same input/output signals to run. i push over 17psi on my stock block just fine. Found out where this poop Greddy turbo stops making power. Got a lot of midrange from it. Lets try 28psi on a GT35R on a stock block. You really believe your motor can hold that with a basic emanage? (yes, no ones gona do it, but its an example)
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Peteyd was ZPI's first wasnt he? He had direct connections with ZPI. If they knew it'd work better, why did they not suggest it for his setup?? So much for ZPI right?
Nope, sorry dude. PeteyD was NOT the first. ScionDad was the first. And if I'm not mistaken, he ran the Blue Box on an AUTO boosted ZPI powered tC just fine. So, So much for ZPI right?
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
this comment was geared towards the guy who said he wanted to boost, but stay under the costs of higher-end cars. it was not to you.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
if your wastegate line comes off and you overboost, is that your tune's fault? I'm only trying to suggest whats best in everyone's interest in their concern for reliability. supposedly you have close ties with your tuner correct? then you must datalog and work out kinks here and there in your tune quite often. Other members may not have that benefit.
#48
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
REAL tuning? According to who, you? Most of the racers in my community Street tune their rides. Ours is and always has been street tuned as well. If you put your car on the dyno and tune it, and ours is street tuned, and I walk your dyno tuned car, what difference does it make huh....
2 scion tc's with the same exact setup, same emanage ultimate. one gets street tuned, and one dyno tuned. Hands down, the dyno tuned will have the edge and higher numbers.
The whole point of tuning is not to see who walks who in a race, its to make sure your car is running at optimal power given the conditions it sees. Your CEL sucks, and to others who are worried about passing inspection, CEL will have a problems. Also, having the CEL on all the time prevents you from knowing other problems that may be occuring because you think its the same CEL. A CEL can contain more than one error codes. My bro's car does not have a CEL even without a cat. I know most here dont run cats anyways, but i'd suggest to bypass that somehow. (i'm currently working on a way to permanently rid of the secondary o2 and bypass it without causing a CEL for all OBD2 cars)
We have the same amount of mileage, but in less years bro.. We drive all over the place. CEL light...meey, doesn't bother me or the car. Pretty common in the tC F/I section to have one.
Why did you repeat what I just said?
I think you are misunderstanding. Here let me break it down for you....95% of the tC's on here are around 300hp. Emanage works for that. When they decided to go over 300, then I'm sure they will upgrade. So you 28psi on a GT35R situation wouldn't even be thought of on here. Anyone smart enough to run that high and that turbo, WILL more than likely have something different than the Blue Box....That's Common Sense. But are we talking about 28 PSI GT35R cars here? Nope. We are talking about T3/T4's, 16G's, 18G's, with usually no more than 10 PSI on them.
Nope, sorry dude. PeteyD was NOT the first. ScionDad was the first. And if I'm not mistaken, he ran the Blue Box on an AUTO boosted ZPI powered tC just fine. So, So much for ZPI right?
I still love that comment though....
what does that have to do with running the Blue Box vs. running the Ultimate? Does the Ultimate prevent you wagstegate line from coming off and you overboosting or something?
Say you set overboost to cut off at 10.1psi. your boost controller is set 10psi daily. you're at a car show or something, you look away, someone turns the **** of your BC up to ____ with you. You drive home, see a riced out rsx and wana spank it. You gun it, boost climbs, but the moment where the emanage sees the boost level go past your set 10psi, it will cut the engine until you're back under 10.1psi, therefore preventing you from blowing your motor. You go home safely and have your motor intact and go under the hood to inspect why it was overboosting.
lol, i dont even know what exactly we are "arguing" about. you know emanage ultimate is the better option. but i guess the point i'm trying to make is that if there is the best item out there, get it, b/c it'll be worth it in the end. Also, you should not be moddig on a budget anyways and should have backup funds in case something breaks.
Just like my hard-learned example. i bought the stinkin Greddy kit thinking it'll be sufficient for my needs. but once boosted, i kept wanting more. i ended maxing out the turbo, and cant get anymore HP. I ended up spending a bit more money to try and upgrade its components. And in the end, it totaled to be about, if not more, than the price of the best turbo setup for the K-series, Full-Race. With FR, i could've hit 400whp with ease and lower boost. now i gota depend on nitrous with it.
hmmm.....i wonder if Full-Race will start making setups for the tC....that'd be the pimpest setup....
#49
oh ____.....nevermind....
Full-Race is making a setup for the Scion tC. oh snap!
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...?cPath=839_887
Full-Race is making a setup for the Scion tC. oh snap!
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...?cPath=839_887
#51
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
oh poop.....nevermind....
Full-Race is making a setup for the Scion tC. oh snap!
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...?cPath=839_887
Full-Race is making a setup for the Scion tC. oh snap!
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...?cPath=839_887
yeah, that's sorta old news. Brian is getting one of those soon.
#52
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
REAL tuning? According to who, you? Most of the racers in my community Street tune their rides. Ours is and always has been street tuned as well. If you put your car on the dyno and tune it, and ours is street tuned, and I walk your dyno tuned car, what difference does it make huh....
2 scion tc's with the same exact setup, same emanage ultimate. one gets street tuned, and one dyno tuned. Hands down, the dyno tuned will have the edge and higher numbers.
Yes, I know Street tune is different. That don't make it faster just because you tunned on the dyno.. There are plenty of cars on here that have dyno tunes. Our tC has never seen a tune on the dyno in ALL of it's boosted life. Does that mean I'm slower than the ones that were dyno tunned....hmmm.... Call me crazy if you wish, but a little tid bit of info. Our car was tunned with NO wideband, and ran for oh about 8 months with racing every weekend. Only just recently has it been Street Tuned with a Wideband, and Now is running better than ever. So, how about that ZPI huh? Call is sheer luck or whatever, but dyno tunning is not a sure fire way that you car WON'T blow up. Sure, if I was dyno tunned, I would be even more powerful. But if it aint broke, don't fix it.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
The whole point of tuning is not to see who walks who in a race, its to make sure your car is running at optimal power given the conditions it sees. Your CEL sucks, and to others who are worried about passing inspection, CEL will have a problems.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Also, having the CEL on all the time prevents you from knowing other problems that may be occuring because you think its the same CEL. A CEL can contain more than one error codes. My bro's car does not have a CEL even without a cat. I know most here dont run cats anyways, but i'd suggest to bypass that somehow. (i'm currently working on a way to permanently rid of the secondary o2 and bypass it without causing a CEL for all OBD2 cars)
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
We have the same amount of mileage, but in less years bro.. We drive all over the place. CEL light...meey, doesn't bother me or the car. Pretty common in the tC F/I section to have one.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
I think you are misunderstanding. Here let me break it down for you....95% of the tC's on here are around 300hp. Emanage works for that. When they decided to go over 300, then I'm sure they will upgrade. So you 28psi on a GT35R situation wouldn't even be thought of on here. Anyone smart enough to run that high and that turbo, WILL more than likely have something different than the Blue Box....That's Common Sense. But are we talking about 28 PSI GT35R cars here? Nope. We are talking about T3/T4's, 16G's, 18G's, with usually no more than 10 PSI on them.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
no, you're the one that stated he NEEDED emanage ultimate.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
sciondad runs fine with blue. so there ya go. the point i was trying to make that it didnt matter which one he used and as it doesnt control the trans like you said it does.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
overboost protection, a nifty feature in emanage ultimate that in case that should happen, it'll cut you off if it sees psi out of its set range range.
Say you set overboost to cut off at 10.1psi. your boost controller is set 10psi daily. you're at a car show or something, you look away, someone turns the **** of your BC up to flip with you. You drive home, see a riced out rsx and wana spank it. You gun it, boost climbs, but the moment where the emanage sees the boost level go past your set 10psi, it will cut the engine until you're back under 10.1psi, therefore preventing you from blowing your motor. You go home safely and have your motor intact and go under the hood to inspect why it was overboosting.
Say you set overboost to cut off at 10.1psi. your boost controller is set 10psi daily. you're at a car show or something, you look away, someone turns the **** of your BC up to flip with you. You drive home, see a riced out rsx and wana spank it. You gun it, boost climbs, but the moment where the emanage sees the boost level go past your set 10psi, it will cut the engine until you're back under 10.1psi, therefore preventing you from blowing your motor. You go home safely and have your motor intact and go under the hood to inspect why it was overboosting.
That's good. Haven't seen to many OVERBoosting blown tC's on here though. GReddy had that problem when they first came out, because of faulty WG's. Maybe they could have used that option at the time......
#53
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
Yes, I know Street tune is different. That don't make it faster just because you tunned on the dyno.. There are plenty of cars on here that have dyno tunes. Our tC has never seen a tune on the dyno in ALL of it's boosted life. Does that mean I'm slower than the ones that were dyno tunned....hmmm.... Call me crazy if you wish, but a little tid bit of info. Our car was tunned with NO wideband, and ran for oh about 8 months with racing every weekend. Only just recently has it been Street Tuned with a Wideband, and Now is running better than ever. So, how about that ZPI huh? Call is sheer luck or whatever, but dyno tunning is not a sure fire way that you car WON'T blow up. Sure, if I was dyno tunned, I would be even more powerful. But if it aint broke, don't fix it.
did you not read? i never stated who was faster than who, thats not the point of tuning. I guess you did not understand the part about ignition tuning right? I can honestly say that you wont get a problem-free car. If problems arise, i doubt you'll post it on here.
About my racing? I use track this ____ every other month or so. Hence why i have a fully built automatic race transmission from IPT to take the abuse. But lately, i havent done it for the past month and 1/2 due to school load and med school deadlines. Why does it matter to you? i beat the 13 sec domestics at the local track. I'm happy with that. I have some vids too if you'd like when i was on low boost.
"omg i race this and that every week"- you sound like a ricer and an immature kid to me and how you abuse a car by showing your driving habits.
PeteyD is an entirely different case all together......He Was AUTO tranny dude. That's why he should have went Ultimate. As 90-95% of the Auto boosted tC's on here go with the Ultimate, cause it works better for AUTO tranny tC's. Blue Box runs just fine and has been on the Manuals
Do you really think every other member can pass inspections with a CEL like you do? An OBD2 testing inspector sees a CEL and automatically fails you. The connect the ODB2 diagnostic machine to your car and RECORD the trouble codes down, and checks readiness codes the same time. If you fail, it goes into your vehicle's VIN history.
i'm done on this thread. You do not seem experienced/knowledgeable enough to know the importance basics of engine dynamics and tuning to even creating an argument that makes sense. Not that everyone does but they SHOULD understand the least bit thats its the sole thing running their car.
If you really believe i am speaking out of my ___, then i want you to get your car tuner in here and tell him to prove my statements to be wrong.
#54
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
wow, i surely can see now that i'm not talking to one knowledgeable enough to know how important a tune is. Do you really think ZPI support your statements thus far? Are you ZPI's spokesman? i want to hear from them to see if you're actually speaking for them and they stand by all of your statements. If so, then i totally look down on them as a tuner company.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
did you not read? i never stated who was faster than who, thats not the point of tuning. I guess you did not understand the part about ignition tuning right? I can honestly say that you wont get a problem-free car. If problems arise, i doubt you'll post it on here.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
About my racing? I use track this poop every other month or so. Hence why i have a fully built automatic race transmission from IPT to take the abuse. But lately, i havent done it for the past month and 1/2 due to school load and med school deadlines. Why does it matter to you? i beat the 13 sec domestics at the local track. I'm happy with that. I have some vids too if you'd like when i was on low boost.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
"omg i race this and that every week"- you sound like a ricer and an immature kid to me and how you abuse a car by showing your driving habits.
PeteyD is an entirely different case all together......He Was AUTO tranny dude. That's why he should have went Ultimate. As 90-95% of the Auto boosted tC's on here go with the Ultimate, cause it works better for AUTO tranny tC's. Blue Box runs just fine and has been on the Manuals
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
theres your quote. you did mention that Peteyd needed it, an all autos too. but you come around and say that sciondad is running blue just fine.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Do you really think every other member can pass inspections with a CEL like you do? An OBD2 testing inspector sees a CEL and automatically fails you. The connect the ODB2 diagnostic machine to your car and RECORD the trouble codes down, and checks readiness codes the same time. If you fail, it goes into your vehicle's VIN history.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
i'm done on this thread. You do not seem experienced/knowledgeable enough to know the importance basics of engine dynamics and tuning to even creating an argument that makes sense. Not that everyone does but they SHOULD understand the least bit thats its the sole thing running their car.
If you really believe i am speaking out of my butt, then i want you to get your car tuner in here and tell him to prove my statements to be wrong.
If you really believe i am speaking out of my butt, then i want you to get your car tuner in here and tell him to prove my statements to be wrong.
Dude, your post are so twisting of what I've said, that I've even forgot what you were trying to prove? That a dyno tune is better than a street tune?.....umm...If I recalled, I said that yeah, you are going to get the #'s, but I added that it doesn't mean you will NEVER blow up. And what was your other point? That the Ultimate was better than the Blue box....umm...yeah, I think I agreed on that too, but added that it doesn't mean the Blue box was crappy when it's not. So, what point are you trying to make that I missed?
#55
This was your VERY first post on the first page.
And all I told you after that was that the Blue box IS reliable, can provide longevity and saftey for the motor. And used our car as an example. And now it's turned into this big-drawn out-ordeal.
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
Boosting on a budget is definitely NOT a good idea. Things will come up, no matter how small, and costs will add up FAST!
Tuning is KEY to everything and all your concerns to reliability and gas efficiency, so dont cheap out on it. For tuning, i recommend emanage ultimate, no less. Emanage blue works, but i wouldnt trust it if i was concerned about longevity and safety of the motor.
Tuning is KEY to everything and all your concerns to reliability and gas efficiency, so dont cheap out on it. For tuning, i recommend emanage ultimate, no less. Emanage blue works, but i wouldnt trust it if i was concerned about longevity and safety of the motor.
#56
i still stick to the FACT that emanage blue is not the best option for reliability and safety. i've given the reasons with examples, ie. overboost protection, a/f target, etc. The only thing you can say is that your car is an example and several others of your "car crew", but no real argument regarding the tuning aspect of the blue box's parameters to show me that it can ensure safety. Basically, it rests all in on how good the tune is. If your tune is poop, you're out of luck with blue box.
People cannot simply depend on other tuners to make it safe as your tune is with blue box. That is why the Ultimate has extra safety lines in case the tuner does poop on the tune.
MANY tuners alike will agree that the emanage blue box is NOT the prefered tuning device. Even 318_tC said that himself. Heck, tuners want the safety nets themselves so they dont ____ up.
I guess in blue box's case, street tuning is should be no different from dyno tuning b/c you cant tune ignition timing anyways LOL. Now if you had the option of ignition tuning, then DYNO is the way to go. The thing about street tuning, you're not in controlled environment and left to do it in the streets, which is not safe if you're in moderately populated areas.
here's something i wrote a while back, and inform yourself about the blue box and its limited capabilities.
Piggy Back controllers (primarily SAFC/VAFC, Emanage Blue, etc) allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the MAP/MAF Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map/Maf Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map/Maf Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map/maf Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map/maf Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps/mafs if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map/maf Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP/MAF changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable. However, with the new release of Emanage Ultimate, which allows ignition tuning, we can see a whole new ballgame and see that its the most sound solution for a piggyback option. Its ALMOST like a standalone system.
People cannot simply depend on other tuners to make it safe as your tune is with blue box. That is why the Ultimate has extra safety lines in case the tuner does poop on the tune.
MANY tuners alike will agree that the emanage blue box is NOT the prefered tuning device. Even 318_tC said that himself. Heck, tuners want the safety nets themselves so they dont ____ up.
I guess in blue box's case, street tuning is should be no different from dyno tuning b/c you cant tune ignition timing anyways LOL. Now if you had the option of ignition tuning, then DYNO is the way to go. The thing about street tuning, you're not in controlled environment and left to do it in the streets, which is not safe if you're in moderately populated areas.
here's something i wrote a while back, and inform yourself about the blue box and its limited capabilities.
Piggy Back controllers (primarily SAFC/VAFC, Emanage Blue, etc) allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the MAP/MAF Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map/Maf Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map/Maf Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map/maf Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map/maf Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps/mafs if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map/maf Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP/MAF changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable. However, with the new release of Emanage Ultimate, which allows ignition tuning, we can see a whole new ballgame and see that its the most sound solution for a piggyback option. Its ALMOST like a standalone system.
#57
Originally Posted by 03DSM-RSX
i still stick to the FACT that emanage blue is not the best option for reliability and safety. i've given the reasons with examples, ie. overboost protection, a/f target, etc. The only thing you can say is that your car is an example and several others of your "car crew", but no real argument regarding the tuning aspect of the blue box's parameters to show me that it can ensure safety. Basically, it rests all in on how good the tune is. If your tune is poop, you're out of luck with blue box.
People cannot simply depend on other tuners to make it safe as your tune is with blue box. That is why the Ultimate has extra safety lines in case the tuner does poop on the tune.
That's why you go where previous customers have advised you too, not just anybody.
MANY tuners alike will agree that the emanage blue box is NOT the prefered tuning device. Even 318_tC said that himself. Heck, tuners want the safety nets themselves so they dont flip up.
I guess in blue box's case, street tuning is should be no different from dyno tuning b/c you cant tune ignition timing anyways LOL. Now if you had the option of ignition tuning, then DYNO is the way to go. The thing about street tuning, you're not in controlled environment and left to do it in the streets, which is not safe if you're in moderately populated areas.
here's something i wrote a while back, and inform yourself about the blue box and its limited capabilities.
Piggy Back controllers (primarily SAFC/VAFC, Emanage Blue, etc) allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the MAP/MAF Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map/Maf Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map/Maf Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map/maf Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map/maf Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps/mafs if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map/maf Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP/MAF changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable. However, with the new release of Emanage Ultimate, which allows ignition tuning, we can see a whole new ballgame and see that its the most sound solution for a piggyback option. Its ALMOST like a standalone system.
People cannot simply depend on other tuners to make it safe as your tune is with blue box. That is why the Ultimate has extra safety lines in case the tuner does poop on the tune.
That's why you go where previous customers have advised you too, not just anybody.
MANY tuners alike will agree that the emanage blue box is NOT the prefered tuning device. Even 318_tC said that himself. Heck, tuners want the safety nets themselves so they dont flip up.
I guess in blue box's case, street tuning is should be no different from dyno tuning b/c you cant tune ignition timing anyways LOL. Now if you had the option of ignition tuning, then DYNO is the way to go. The thing about street tuning, you're not in controlled environment and left to do it in the streets, which is not safe if you're in moderately populated areas.
here's something i wrote a while back, and inform yourself about the blue box and its limited capabilities.
Piggy Back controllers (primarily SAFC/VAFC, Emanage Blue, etc) allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the MAP/MAF Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map/Maf Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map/Maf Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map/maf Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map/maf Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps/mafs if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map/maf Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP/MAF changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable. However, with the new release of Emanage Ultimate, which allows ignition tuning, we can see a whole new ballgame and see that its the most sound solution for a piggyback option. Its ALMOST like a standalone system.
#58
^^^.....
It was long BUT there was a lot of great info there to. I will now most likely buy the ultamate for a ZPI stage 0 that I plan on getting. I want to thank both of you for arguing for so long, I got a lot of great information out of it.
Now, my eyes burn from reading all of that in the last 15 minutes. So Im going to go look at the stage 0 I want to buy and read more about the Emanage and the Emanage Ultimate.
Thanks again for all the great info.
It was long BUT there was a lot of great info there to. I will now most likely buy the ultamate for a ZPI stage 0 that I plan on getting. I want to thank both of you for arguing for so long, I got a lot of great information out of it.
Now, my eyes burn from reading all of that in the last 15 minutes. So Im going to go look at the stage 0 I want to buy and read more about the Emanage and the Emanage Ultimate.
Thanks again for all the great info.
#59
Also RSX guy has a good point about your tune...you get a great tune at ZPI, where I live its going to be hard to find a tuner who know his ___ from his elbow when it comes to tuning my car if I had the blue box so hopefully the Ultimate will make that easier.
#60
Originally Posted by tCduck
^^^.....
It was long BUT there was a lot of great info there to. I will now most likely buy the ultamate for a ZPI stage 0 that I plan on getting. I want to thank both of you for arguing for so long, I got a lot of great information out of it.
Now, my eyes burn from reading all of that in the last 15 minutes. So Im going to go look at the stage 0 I want to buy and read more about the Emanage and the Emanage Ultimate.
Thanks again for all the great info.
It was long BUT there was a lot of great info there to. I will now most likely buy the ultamate for a ZPI stage 0 that I plan on getting. I want to thank both of you for arguing for so long, I got a lot of great information out of it.
Now, my eyes burn from reading all of that in the last 15 minutes. So Im going to go look at the stage 0 I want to buy and read more about the Emanage and the Emanage Ultimate.
Thanks again for all the great info.