Stage 0 people only ?'s
12-10-2007, 11:20 PM
#25
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Matt,
I dont think you will have any problems with the kit. I was in your same shoes about 3 months ago when I bought a used kit. Put it on an 06 tc automatic. The install was pretty stright foward and not hard if you have some knowagle with cars. I put the kit on in about 6 or 7 hours from start to finishing with my gauges and gauge pod. I dont think you dont have to worry about the gap on the plugs so much. When I put mine in I never touched the gapping just left them the gap they came in the box and the car ran fine never fouled a plug yet. So far no problems with the kit and the kit I would say is pretty reliable as of now. I am also running with stock tune and injectors with no problems yet but I am starting to look into some fuel managment. Let me know if you have any questions about the kit and I will be more then happy to try and help you anserew them as best that I can.
Chris
I dont think you will have any problems with the kit. I was in your same shoes about 3 months ago when I bought a used kit. Put it on an 06 tc automatic. The install was pretty stright foward and not hard if you have some knowagle with cars. I put the kit on in about 6 or 7 hours from start to finishing with my gauges and gauge pod. I dont think you dont have to worry about the gap on the plugs so much. When I put mine in I never touched the gapping just left them the gap they came in the box and the car ran fine never fouled a plug yet. So far no problems with the kit and the kit I would say is pretty reliable as of now. I am also running with stock tune and injectors with no problems yet but I am starting to look into some fuel managment. Let me know if you have any questions about the kit and I will be more then happy to try and help you anserew them as best that I can.
Chris
12-10-2007, 11:45 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by ERIC-TC
The quick spooling turbo and the Automatic Transmission never got along. Rebuilt the tranny and sold the Stage 0 to pay for it 
12-10-2007, 11:50 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by tcchris38
Matt,
I dont think you will have any problems with the kit. I was in your same shoes about 3 months ago when I bought a used kit. Put it on an 06 tc automatic. The install was pretty stright foward and not hard if you have some knowagle with cars. I put the kit on in about 6 or 7 hours from start to finishing with my gauges and gauge pod. I dont think you dont have to worry about the gap on the plugs so much. When I put mine in I never touched the gapping just left them the gap they came in the box and the car ran fine never fouled a plug yet. So far no problems with the kit and the kit I would say is pretty reliable as of now. I am also running with stock tune and injectors with no problems yet but I am starting to look into some fuel managment. Let me know if you have any questions about the kit and I will be more then happy to try and help you anserew them as best that I can.
Chris
I dont think you will have any problems with the kit. I was in your same shoes about 3 months ago when I bought a used kit. Put it on an 06 tc automatic. The install was pretty stright foward and not hard if you have some knowagle with cars. I put the kit on in about 6 or 7 hours from start to finishing with my gauges and gauge pod. I dont think you dont have to worry about the gap on the plugs so much. When I put mine in I never touched the gapping just left them the gap they came in the box and the car ran fine never fouled a plug yet. So far no problems with the kit and the kit I would say is pretty reliable as of now. I am also running with stock tune and injectors with no problems yet but I am starting to look into some fuel managment. Let me know if you have any questions about the kit and I will be more then happy to try and help you anserew them as best that I can.
Chris
12-10-2007, 11:59 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by tcchris38
Matt
a/f at part throttle- 14.9-15.2 somewhere in this range
a/f at WOT is somewhere between 11-12.5
the nimbers bounch around a bunch
a/f at part throttle- 14.9-15.2 somewhere in this range
a/f at WOT is somewhere between 11-12.5
the nimbers bounch around a bunch
12-11-2007, 12:29 AM
#32
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Now Eric by removing the O2 like that are there any other side affects besides the cel ? Also should i hook up the secondary O2 ? Right now i have it in one of those nonfouler things but its the better one, it has a bend in it. The cel fix for the header.
12-11-2007, 12:36 PM
#34
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Scion Noics
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yeah i never heard of unplugging the O2 sensor as a good idea. not bashing buuuut....its there for a GOOD reason. if taking stuff off is the best mod then at this point my car would be amazing. the Wideband bung should be on the s-pipe b4 the cat for the best reading. the downpipe...in place of the 02sensor...i dont think thats a good idea. spend a few bux and get ur Spipe welded. or buy mine rofl.
Matt, i ran stage 0 for a while. its not bad. untuned at WOT it was great but the A/F bounced tooooo much for my liking and i dont like the idea that one wrong bounce and i was kabewy! it would drop down to 11.2 on sum cooler summer nights tho which is decent. Matt, where ur problem comes in is that while i effectively DOES get the A/F down to 11's it does it rather slowly in comparison to having a tuned EM telling it what to do. it tries to feel things out on the way down to a safe A/F. it needs to drop pretty immediately. oh btw Blown xA does know his stuff. as far as gapping i had mine at about .32 it ran perfect. oh and your def gonna wanna go with 1 step colder plugs as well. heat is gonna be ur biggest enemy with the stage 0. without an intercooler its just a matter of time before things get ugly. u may want to consider running methanol injection to try and keep EGT's down and increase efficiency and service life if u dont think u'll be intercooling the system for a long while. of course u'll need a tune for it tho but its a cheap (tho consumable) way of making ur S0 kit safer and more fun. in the mean time DONT SKIMP OUT ON NECESSARIES! GET AN ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. i went about 2 weeks without Emanage and it ran fine but i was scared of how slow it dropped when i slammed on the gas in a hurry. not to mention the kit ran much faster with EM. it became hard to keep traction all the way thru first even after a controlled launch. the wheels would break free again at the top of first and wouldnt catch for a while in 2nd. it ran like a beast.
also keep a eye on ur OIL!!! check ur sizing on ur return line. it needs to be 5/8 or larger. i ran 3/4. make sure there are no issues with drainage. make sure ur oil pan is tapped at the VERY highest point it can be and try to make sure there are no kinks or dips in the oil return line. the return is gravity fed so any dips or kinks will make the oil flood ur turbo and blow ur seals prematurely.
and yeah....its a chinese turbo. like my buddy said...well actually he stole my joke. i just told him like 3 days ago. the only thing good china ever made was chinese food. remember ur not paying for a precision turbo. but it will work fine as long as u take care of it. its still a turbo lol oh and if u dont have kenny strickler's number...i got it. ur gonna need to get first name basis with him directly if issues arise. he may not work for zpi anymore but he still knows the kit and its strengths and weaknesses as well as where to find the hard to locate little parts like the oil feed line washer that i lost during install and the oil feed fitting which was stripped by a prior owner unbeknownst to me.
yes the stage 0s do come with a 6psi setting. at least mine did. its actually a 5.7 psi spring but it sounds good to say 6 considering most boost gauges' notches are too close together to dictate 5.7 lol
all in all i think the 0 was a good beginners kit. just gotta keep a close eye on it and u really gotta keep throwing money in the right places (tuning) to make sure it stays strong and safe till u either stage1 it or swap. i chose the latter decision.
Matt, i ran stage 0 for a while. its not bad. untuned at WOT it was great but the A/F bounced tooooo much for my liking and i dont like the idea that one wrong bounce and i was kabewy! it would drop down to 11.2 on sum cooler summer nights tho which is decent. Matt, where ur problem comes in is that while i effectively DOES get the A/F down to 11's it does it rather slowly in comparison to having a tuned EM telling it what to do. it tries to feel things out on the way down to a safe A/F. it needs to drop pretty immediately. oh btw Blown xA does know his stuff. as far as gapping i had mine at about .32 it ran perfect. oh and your def gonna wanna go with 1 step colder plugs as well. heat is gonna be ur biggest enemy with the stage 0. without an intercooler its just a matter of time before things get ugly. u may want to consider running methanol injection to try and keep EGT's down and increase efficiency and service life if u dont think u'll be intercooling the system for a long while. of course u'll need a tune for it tho but its a cheap (tho consumable) way of making ur S0 kit safer and more fun. in the mean time DONT SKIMP OUT ON NECESSARIES! GET AN ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. i went about 2 weeks without Emanage and it ran fine but i was scared of how slow it dropped when i slammed on the gas in a hurry. not to mention the kit ran much faster with EM. it became hard to keep traction all the way thru first even after a controlled launch. the wheels would break free again at the top of first and wouldnt catch for a while in 2nd. it ran like a beast.
also keep a eye on ur OIL!!! check ur sizing on ur return line. it needs to be 5/8 or larger. i ran 3/4. make sure there are no issues with drainage. make sure ur oil pan is tapped at the VERY highest point it can be and try to make sure there are no kinks or dips in the oil return line. the return is gravity fed so any dips or kinks will make the oil flood ur turbo and blow ur seals prematurely.
and yeah....its a chinese turbo. like my buddy said...well actually he stole my joke. i just told him like 3 days ago. the only thing good china ever made was chinese food. remember ur not paying for a precision turbo. but it will work fine as long as u take care of it. its still a turbo lol oh and if u dont have kenny strickler's number...i got it. ur gonna need to get first name basis with him directly if issues arise. he may not work for zpi anymore but he still knows the kit and its strengths and weaknesses as well as where to find the hard to locate little parts like the oil feed line washer that i lost during install and the oil feed fitting which was stripped by a prior owner unbeknownst to me.
yes the stage 0s do come with a 6psi setting. at least mine did. its actually a 5.7 psi spring but it sounds good to say 6 considering most boost gauges' notches are too close together to dictate 5.7 lol
all in all i think the 0 was a good beginners kit. just gotta keep a close eye on it and u really gotta keep throwing money in the right places (tuning) to make sure it stays strong and safe till u either stage1 it or swap. i chose the latter decision.
12-11-2007, 01:00 PM
#35
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Have you thought why the A/F jumps around so much? It's called closed-loop and the ECU on the car will always force the car to run lean. If you unplug the 02 sensor then the car uses a MAF table instead of trying to lean out the fuel.
Don't knock it until you try it...
Don't knock it until you try it...
12-11-2007, 09:26 PM
#36
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Scion Noics
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umm i know what closed loop is...i just dont think its a good plan. if u want to put in a wideband how bout not skimping on bux and just get a bung welded and tune it. why rig it when u dont have to. A/F didnt bounce around at all on my car once i TUNED IT! i decided not to go cheap with things like that. so sorry, but i wont be "trying it."
not tryna come off like an a-hole or rude. just my opinion. every one is intitled right?
not tryna come off like an a-hole or rude. just my opinion. every one is intitled right?
12-12-2007, 12:25 AM
#38
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Thanks AcrimoniousBear, I got the kit today, everything looks to be ok just the air filter got crushed in the shipping. I'm going to replace all the couplers and replace the worm clamps with t-bolt clamps. I also have a friend that powder coats so i might have all the pipes done gloss black. The manifold and downpipe look fine and the wastegate and turbo have copper gaskets installed. The turbo also seems to be ok, there is some little bit of play in the shaft maybe like 1/16 of an inch of back and forth play. Is that ok?
What i am wondering is how hard would it be to swap out the turbo with a real 16g a DSM 16g? Would it fit in its place? If it would then if something happends i could just swap it out right?
What i am wondering is how hard would it be to swap out the turbo with a real 16g a DSM 16g? Would it fit in its place? If it would then if something happends i could just swap it out right?
12-12-2007, 12:59 AM
#39
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Ohh and i don't think the turbo is made in CHINA.. Read here.
http://www.bblgroup.us/automotive/product/evo3gt/
http://www.bblgroup.us/automotive/product/evo3gt/
12-12-2007, 01:20 PM
#40
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Scion Noics
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firestorm, My AFR did Yo-Yo but thats kinda common being that i was running a Blow off valve. any valve that vents to atomosphere will cause the A/F to bounce from stoich to lean to rich then back to stoich. before i was tuned it would yo-yo more than that tho. usually only on the highway cuz throttle positions wouldnt really be changing enuf for the ECU to decide to handle the issue but i could literally FEEL the car surging as it would lean out. it eventually stops on its own but i hate the feeling of thinking my ECU was overworking itself. i know this is not a zpi confined issue as my friend with the DEZOD kit ALSO had Yo-yo'ing. its a blanket issue with atomospheric BOV's. we should all just use Re-circ bypasses anyway and hold boost better under load....but who wants that!? lol then we wouldnt get that "k00l" Pshhhhhh!!! rofl
have u tried tightening the band clamp on the middle of the turbo. its suppose to have enuf play to clock the turbo for installs and situating the turbo but u dont want it spinning that housing all around while ur driving. motor rock (Torque lash) has enuf strength to be constantly moving ur housing around while driving. i'd tighten that bugger down, Matt. im pretty sure the play ur talking about is from that clamp.
as far as replacing it with a REAL 16G...if u can find one...sure i'd think it would work. GL on finding one. Hint, real Mitsu turbo's arent as cheap as the chinese counterpart.
and im sorry i didnt have the time to read the whole page (i will tho) but Kenny Strickler himself has told me that sum of the turbo's that came originally with zpi kits were "chinese replica's" soooo yeah. roflmao GREAT SELLING POINT KENNY! only diff i really see is the internal wastegate.
have u tried tightening the band clamp on the middle of the turbo. its suppose to have enuf play to clock the turbo for installs and situating the turbo but u dont want it spinning that housing all around while ur driving. motor rock (Torque lash) has enuf strength to be constantly moving ur housing around while driving. i'd tighten that bugger down, Matt. im pretty sure the play ur talking about is from that clamp.
as far as replacing it with a REAL 16G...if u can find one...sure i'd think it would work. GL on finding one. Hint, real Mitsu turbo's arent as cheap as the chinese counterpart.
and im sorry i didnt have the time to read the whole page (i will tho) but Kenny Strickler himself has told me that sum of the turbo's that came originally with zpi kits were "chinese replica's" soooo yeah. roflmao GREAT SELLING POINT KENNY! only diff i really see is the internal wastegate.