Not sure which piggyback you are using, did'nt state

I do road tune as this is as accurate as you can get, not on dynos. Dynos were meant as an one-man-operation platform and based on simulated road conditions. You can probably google the preferred choice as determined by many tuners and their personal assessment of the 2 methods.

You will need a wideband monitor + boost guage + scantool to road tune.

Generally the steps involved are as below :

1) Set the boost to your desired level (ie. 10psi)

2) Use scan tool to observe when the ecu goes close>open loop and when open>closed loop decceleration.

3) Tune vacuum regions 1st (at idle 22inHg to 0inHg, 0 being atmospheric absolute 14.5psi)

4) Look at the scan tool to see your Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) and Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT). In vacuum region you will need to tune STFT as close as possible to 0.0%. The tolerance of the Toyota ECU allows maybe 3% max for control authority. Cross over this threshold and boom! you lose control and the whole tune map gets off-ish. Keep tuning the vacuum region till you consistently get to 0.0% on the map. Test by pulling out the EFI fuses in your main fuse box in the engine bay. Reset the stock ecu (this erases the temporary memory of the stored fuel trims) and test your map.

STFT and LTFT is key to a successful running car that performs consisitently 24/7. The reason why e-manage users report overriding after a period of time is as explained above...... The STFT and LTFT were never tuned properly and running in parallel with the piggyback, thats why control authority was lost and the STOCK ecu takes over! Some users then condemn the product and deem it as poop. Truth be told, Greedy is to blame for not telling consumers HOW to tune correctly not that the product is poop (Now the secret is out....)

5) After above is done, tune boosted region 1psi at a time (you need a co-driver with a steady feet to hold the tuning pressure points as shown on laptop screen)

6) Look at your AFR when doing (5) you will want to go for 12.5-13.0 for partial throttle tune (close loop) and 11.5-12.0 for WOT (open loop)

7) After fuel map is tuned, reset the ecu by pulling the EFI fuses in the engine bay to reset the ecu memory. Test tuned map again.

Lastly is the ignition timing map, again use the scan tool to observe timing advance for your whole tuned map. Where you see retardation of the timing on your scan tool, note where this is on the tune map, reduce by 1 degree at a time till it no longer retards while building up boost.

Generally boosted engines do not like less than 20 degrees ign. timing. The general rule of reducing 1 degree timing for every 1 psi of boost is ridiculous (At least for me) I do not retard more than 2 degrees on all/any tuned points, the car pulls hard with very good AFR for the whole range. I think this maybe due to the variable camshaft timing that influences the ign. timing

Engines tend to advance its timing as much as possible till it sees knock, thats when it retards timing to prevent unnecessary damage. But in our modern Toyota engines (and others), the engine does not monitor knock beyond 3300rpm. This is mainly due to the "false" knock created from noisy valve tappets during high revs and progressively heavier loads. The piezotronic sensor located at the back of our engine block is unable to differentiate "irrelevant" noise, therefore engine knock is not monitored anything above this set threshold. You will need to pay more attention to the ign. timing retard in the boosted regions beyond 3k rpm So look at your scan tool when tuning beyond 3k rpm.

After all is done, you will have a reliable bruiser that is daily driven

Boost on Bro

 

holy crap.

i think i'm going to bow down now.

i'm using the AEM f/ic if that helps any.

 

.......ok who has a scan tool in vegas? lol.

 

AEM fic tunes off engine load which is via rpm vs throttle position. Hmmmm, not what I would like to tune with. Most tuners prefer tuning off from pressure ie. Manifold Absolute Pressure based (MAP).

I feel this method (MAP tune) renders a more accurate assessment of the fueling requirements as determined by boost (which is over the base atmospheric of 14.5psi)

Tuning by MAP also allows a finer resolution in the tuning map as provided by the piggyback product (personal opinion) since injectors are controled via 0.1-0.025mV from the ecu ignition module.

However, load based tuning products may work just as well or even better than MAP based products in some instances Like I said, I just prefer MAP based as a personal choice as I find it more accurate when dealing with hot air compression and constant pressure.

Yay Yay

 

so how do i tune with the f/ic exactly, i'm not quite sure how to do it. thanks for the help man. appreciate it.

what confuses me about htis program is that everybody else is tuning percentages whereas i see solid numbers and a big chart type setup with load and RPM.

i don't understand what numbers i'm supposed to change, am i supposed to be changing them according to RPM, and where the boost lands? or what?

 

WOW! Right on, sleeper!
But are you sure about the AEM F/IC? I ask cause there is a section in the fuel trim for MAP. not sure it that is what you are talking about.

aen: I wonder if Jeremy's scan gauge II would work?
How can you tell when it is in open/closed loop with a simple scan tool like that?

 

what kind of tool does jeremy have?

 

Well for the FIC, you want to make a variable MAF clamp, which basically allows all of the fuel to be delivered over and above by the FIC. This would arguably be the easiest way to tune the tC.

 

jackpot, paul has commented in MY thread

jk

how do i clamp? i've been reading on hte AEM forums and understand that i should clamp off where the fuel for a NA TC is so that when i'm actuall y in boost only the f/ic is providing fuel....but i don't quite understand how i go about doing that.

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear on the scantool thingy You should be using a PC based scantool software product. Yes, they do read and display alot of live datastream info that is very useful for tuning. Example : Digimoto and others

Well I read in the aempower forums that you need to calculate voltage? and input such values so as to correspond with the tables in the fic and be able to trim? I can't recall if this is for the bigger than stock injectors calibration or the MAF value recalibration (maybe both). Btw, I recall you posted a question to the admin and did he reply to your queries?

I just don't like the hassle of calculating voltage values to suit the workings of the fic, thats why I never got it, again this is just my personal preference

 

I think if we had went with the greddy unit's it would be easier simply because more people are familiar with them, but we were looking forward and it seems the AEM is the wave of the future.

I've posted a few quesitions to the admins over in teh AEMPower forums. All but 1 has been answered so far, and that was inreference to the Tru Boost. Which were you reffering to?

 

downpipe tomorrow! 11 AM, so i can start tuning and figuring this out tomorrow!

sleeper, is there any way i can get one of those scantools locally? by that i mean like.......autozone. or something..?

 

Gots to check it out.... I figured there should be a shop in Vegas that would sell. Worst situation is look up ebay and there would be tons of it. Type "pc scantool" perhaps?

 

oh, phil, i just realized i can update the beta software because i'm doing this myself xD

 

the FIC load tables for manifold pressure are measured in MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), and the units for this are PSIa (the "a" stands for absolute). Atmospheric pressure is usually about 14.7 PSIa, so the 0-14.7 PSIa values will be "vacuum." Anything above 14.7 PSIa will be above absolute pressure, which we usually call "boost." For instance, if your FIC measures 20.7 PSIa, that means your manifold is at 4.0 PSIa above atmospheric, or 4 PSI of boost. I hope this makes sense. The FIC instructions should also include an explanation about absolute pressure vs. gauge pressure. Most gauges are referencing 14.7 PSIa, and telling you if there is more pressure or less pressure than that.


it measures MAP too.

 

whatever happened to the OBD1 days when you could just tune off the VF output. those days are gone ;)

just to add when you reset the ecu your only resetting the LTFT's and the STFT's are written into the TCCS. LTFT's are constantly changing based on readings from from the STFT.

sleepmod has some good info. but i never really tune of the fuel trims. i think there is just too many variables.

 

Where did you quote that from, aen? Or are you trying to look smart?
You should do the beta, but you need to splice in the AEM EUGO to so it will log AFRs as well. You will have to update the maps I gave you to the new version of the software, whihc shoudl automatically do it when you open then in the beta software. Also, to get it to work with the FIC, you will need to flash the F/IC.

 

here is a tasty OBD scantool that is awesome. I feel for the money your not going to find much better

http://www.brockwayengineering.com/r920.html

 

scuse me while i cry and watch my money go to poop.


should i buy that? or should i just send it off to get tuned by a pro?

=/!! 200 bucks?

 

Well...you could spend $200 to get tuned by a pro...or you could spend $200 for that, realize you don't know what the f!ck you are doing, and then spend another $200 to get tuned!


J/K

You already have my maps, and we have similar setups, so you shouldd have a good starting point if you wanna tune yourself.

What about this:
http://www.scantool.net/index.php?mo...y=ScanTool.net