t3/t4 hybrid or the 16g
#1
t3/t4 hybrid or the 16g
Which do you guys think performs the best on our cars? I know that zpi is running the 16g and that dezod is running the hybrid but what Im asking is which turbo provides more of a punch given that all variables between the 2 are the same(like the trim). Now before you start I dont know too much of the dynamics of a turbo but I do know kinda how it works and what you would need in a turbo kit so please dont get crazy about things. This is a forum after all hehe
#2
ZPI makes nice power with the 16g, but too much boost and that 16g will be blowing a lot of hot air. IMHO a 50 trim would be ideal for me. Its all about compressor efficiency. ZPI and Dezod are doing an awesome job with the R&D, cant wait till someone gets into the 11s.
#3
We have cars with 16g and a 20g wich is close to a 50 trim. The 16g IMO is a much better "stock like" turbo for the tC. It performs as a stock turbo car would with 230+ whp. The 20G is not as quick spooling but does offer a little better top end. They are both good turbos but be careful there are alot of t3/t4 called turbos that range from great to crap.
#4
I still give props to ZPI for the power they make on a 16G. It's not a bad setup.
We chose the T3/T4 because with the right setup you can make immense power, and easily upgrade up the road.
We're using a T3 flange manifold that we designed. The T3 can support T3 turbos, T3/T04B, and T3/T04E turbos. The T3 is the smallest, and the only one I'd even consider is a super 60 trim. To me, the compressor housing is just too small for a 2.4L motor. The next step up is a T3/T04B. The T3 is the compressor housing, and we went with a 50trim turbine wheel to provide ideal power for 10-14psi specifically. The exhaust housing is the 04B. The B housing provides efficiency with minimal loss on the top end. Again we chose a custom wheel to take full advantage of our motor at stock driveable boost levels. The upgrades you can do from our turbo are as follows...
Turbine upgrade: Simply ship the turbo to turbonetics, or any other turbo refurbisher, and upgrade your wheel, both intake and exhaust, to a certain extent.
Same turbo: with a different AR choice. The AR effects volumetric efficiency, spool-up time, and power. Choosing the right combo is key, and we spent countless hours and calculations to make ours the best matched for our motor.
Housing Upgrade: Upgrading to an "E" housing instead of B will subtract from your efficiency at sub 15psi boost levels, but make more HP on the top end. This is more ideal for higher than stock boost levels (+15 psi) with built motors.
The next upgrade is "ball bearing": Ball bearing turbos cost a lot more money (about $500 more) but add a great deal of efficiency. This effectively let's you run a larger turbo setup, making more power, but with the same or even less turbo lag than a smaller, non-ball bearing turbo. We use turbonetics turbos. Turbonetics uses a patented ceramic ball bearing design. It can yeild up to 50 times more durability than standard thrust bearings found in other turbo setups. This is the ultimate for racers or people who plan on keeping the same turbo for a very long time.
Hopefully that gave you some input on turbo dynamics. I'm a turbo junkie so if you need more technical info let me know. It's fun talkin and playin with this stuff.
We chose the T3/T4 because with the right setup you can make immense power, and easily upgrade up the road.
We're using a T3 flange manifold that we designed. The T3 can support T3 turbos, T3/T04B, and T3/T04E turbos. The T3 is the smallest, and the only one I'd even consider is a super 60 trim. To me, the compressor housing is just too small for a 2.4L motor. The next step up is a T3/T04B. The T3 is the compressor housing, and we went with a 50trim turbine wheel to provide ideal power for 10-14psi specifically. The exhaust housing is the 04B. The B housing provides efficiency with minimal loss on the top end. Again we chose a custom wheel to take full advantage of our motor at stock driveable boost levels. The upgrades you can do from our turbo are as follows...
Turbine upgrade: Simply ship the turbo to turbonetics, or any other turbo refurbisher, and upgrade your wheel, both intake and exhaust, to a certain extent.
Same turbo: with a different AR choice. The AR effects volumetric efficiency, spool-up time, and power. Choosing the right combo is key, and we spent countless hours and calculations to make ours the best matched for our motor.
Housing Upgrade: Upgrading to an "E" housing instead of B will subtract from your efficiency at sub 15psi boost levels, but make more HP on the top end. This is more ideal for higher than stock boost levels (+15 psi) with built motors.
The next upgrade is "ball bearing": Ball bearing turbos cost a lot more money (about $500 more) but add a great deal of efficiency. This effectively let's you run a larger turbo setup, making more power, but with the same or even less turbo lag than a smaller, non-ball bearing turbo. We use turbonetics turbos. Turbonetics uses a patented ceramic ball bearing design. It can yeild up to 50 times more durability than standard thrust bearings found in other turbo setups. This is the ultimate for racers or people who plan on keeping the same turbo for a very long time.
Hopefully that gave you some input on turbo dynamics. I'm a turbo junkie so if you need more technical info let me know. It's fun talkin and playin with this stuff.
#6
Any turbo would "work" if you can get it to fit.
It's definately not efficient for the boost levels that pretty much everyone runs their car at. A smaller turbo would be more driveable, make more torque, and put down better numbers at the track.
It's definately not efficient for the boost levels that pretty much everyone runs their car at. A smaller turbo would be more driveable, make more torque, and put down better numbers at the track.
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