TC not making power, inputs!!
03-20-2010, 02:18 PM
#21
^^ at one point I was upgrading my hydra to unlock the autotune, hydra asked me to send them my map for unlock.. got it back and worked.. then I decided to go back to my old files and loaded.. then it wouldnt start anymore, told hydra what happened and he said I shouldnt have used my old maps coz that just locked my entire box. Then tried several settings until we ended up changing the triggers
03-20-2010, 02:28 PM
#24
leak test will be next.. hopefully that would be the problem than a more expensive or serious one. I just didnt put the leak problem on top now coz at high rpms my wastegate still cant keep up w/ the turbo, my spring pressure is 5.8 psi and i could still reach 7 and on cold weather 8psi.. I know i should check for leaks regardless, im just thinking there could be something on the cylinder head not making it move air
03-21-2010, 03:24 PM
#29
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Ace if your compression is fine and your motor runs smoothly and idles smoothly, I doubt it's a motor issue.
It must be tuning related - from settings on the Hydra to the actual fuel/timing maps.
It must be tuning related - from settings on the Hydra to the actual fuel/timing maps.
03-21-2010, 03:29 PM
#30
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how do you know your at mbt?
Are you monitoring knock? Did you add the point it didint make more tourqe/hp?
03-21-2010, 03:33 PM
#32
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Best way to know you're at MBT is to be on a load bearing dyno.
You are at a certain rpm on the rollers, then apply the amount of load you want to tune - while applying the load and trying to keep all temps constant, take a torque reading. Then increase timing a little and taking another read - if you keep gaining torque, continue until it doesn't gain you anything anymore. Then back off to the timing you were at before torque leveled off. This should be your MBT. Now you might not always be able to get to MBT without experiencing knock - so you want to make sure you're monitoring knock with a stethescope or however else you want.
You are at a certain rpm on the rollers, then apply the amount of load you want to tune - while applying the load and trying to keep all temps constant, take a torque reading. Then increase timing a little and taking another read - if you keep gaining torque, continue until it doesn't gain you anything anymore. Then back off to the timing you were at before torque leveled off. This should be your MBT. Now you might not always be able to get to MBT without experiencing knock - so you want to make sure you're monitoring knock with a stethescope or however else you want.
03-21-2010, 03:35 PM
#33
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Ace - I'm not too familiar with the 2.5 but one thing that bothers me is your axes being flip flopped. I tried to flip them but it doesn't work. Is that how you normally tune your car? load on the x axis and rpm on the y?
03-21-2010, 03:39 PM
#34
I did very little adjustment on the bottom end (torque area) since I didnt have much problem with the torque, I just added 1 degree and added bit more fuel and i easily got almost 10 hp
03-21-2010, 03:40 PM
#35
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Ace - that's why you use a mechanic's stethoscope. You hear knock before your stock knock sensor will even detect it.
Setting your knock threshold is useless if you don't know truly what your safe knock counts are btw.
Setting your knock threshold is useless if you don't know truly what your safe knock counts are btw.
03-21-2010, 03:49 PM
#39
Im basing my timing on my datalog not on the main spark map, i checked all my spark trims and its not showing retard.. The datalog also shows if ignition is retarded or fuel added during a knock event.
03-21-2010, 04:09 PM
#40
Knock is almost impossible to hear, everything on the car is too loud.. the sound was steady throughout though. But actually i have to increase the knock threshold above 5K rpms coz its seems like its a false knock- notice the blue line on the dyno that dip is due to knock retard and fuel add, I raised the knock voltage thresh and corrected the afr add 2 degrees more and the result is the red is the 215 hp
I did very little adjustment on the bottom end (torque area) since I didnt have much problem with the torque, I just added 1 degree and added bit more fuel and i easily got almost 10 hp
I did very little adjustment on the bottom end (torque area) since I didnt have much problem with the torque, I just added 1 degree and added bit more fuel and i easily got almost 10 hp