Well first off thanks for looking at my post. I just boosted my 2nd-gen XB, Im running a garrett t3/t4 550 injectors and an AEM fic. My question is this, the car has been put back together, last week I went to turn it on for the first time and all you could hear is the cranking of the motor but it would not turn on. We then noticed an oil leak at the feed line of the turbo so I had to order a new part. Today the part came in and we put it in and round 2. Same thing, but then found out it was the oil line and not the flange but this should not affect the car starting. The new line will be in tomorrow, but one of my buddies said he might think its the fuel pump not being primed that maybe the injectors might not have fuel at them yet, but i turned the car on, well to the point before it turns on fully to try to get the fuel pump to kick on but Im just not sure, anyone have this problem when they first installed their turbo. The fic is hooked up right, will double check again tomorrow but any inputs would be appreciated. Thanks

 

try different maps and make sure your fuel injectors are seated correctly. you can try using the bypass harness that came with the fic though it never worked for me. so if the bypass harness doenst work dont worry. try to bypass the fic and start the car. if it starts then let it warm up for a while (20-30min atleast) then try again with the fic. if it doesnt start with the fic after that then double check your wireing and try other base maps.

 

Thanks for the response crush, Well I checked all the wiring over and found my buddy had two grounds in the wrong places. We fixed that and still the car wont crank. The car will run with the bypass that the fic came with but not with the FIC.
I know TC have some plug and play harnesses but I had to hard wire my wires in. I had the 4 injectors in and out, a maf in and out, O2, TPS, 3 grounds, Ignition PWR, 2 crank positive with the neg. resistor mod and 2 cam with the neg resistor mod. I know we have different cars but there just arent to many boosted XB's yet but any input would be really appreciated why my car might not be starting. Thanks

Also the car has been at my friends house this whole time so I brought it back to my place today driving it on the bypass, but in second gear when the car got to like 3krpm the car studdered, what can that be? I did give it alil gas just to hear the BOV but studdered so I just got off the gas.

 

the studder would prolly be the lack of managment and the ecu trying to do its normall thing but with bigger injectors...prolly dumped a bit too much fuel thats all...

something has got to be amis with the wireing, then again have you checked any fuses?

you could also try unhooking wires one by one and putting them back in thier normal locations...after a wire has been put back try starting the car. Im hoping this will help you pin point the problem (all the injector wires from the fic should be treated as if it is one wire and disconect all of them at the same time)...start with the o2 wires and maf

 

I have checked the fuses and everything looks good. Ill start with the wiring again. Im alil confused on what ur saying, if I unhook the wire from the fic, are you saying then try to start the car with the bypass on or like start putting the car back to stock meaning put the wires of the car back together? To see if it starts?

 

what i mean is pick a wire set (cam+ cam- for example) take them lose frome the fic and put them back in their stock locations, then try starting your xb. leave the fic as it is.

 

sounds like a wiring problem.

 

x2

 

you should invest in a pnp kit. it makes a world of difference.

 

pnp isnt made for the xb2

 

Ok, I will work on that. I only have the cam and crank pos hooked up. I have the resistor from the neg into each one. Do yall know if the crank and cam neg should be hooked up fully also?

 

not sure i understand you...

are you saying you have the crank- connected via resister with cam-?

its supposed to go cam+ connected via resister with cam- and crank + connected via resister with crank-...resister = 2.2k ohm 1/4watt (may be 1/2watt cant remember)

 

and are you saying youv disconected both the cam+ and crank+ from the ecu?

 

I havent disconnected anything yet, ive been working all day and will work on car tomorrow. I have the resistor in between the crank+ and crank - and also same as the cam. I followed the sticky in the TC forums, so resistor is in between 8-19 on the 22 plug and 9-10 on the 24. I was saying tho that my crank - and cam - are not going to anything wire 8 on the 22plug and 10 on the 24 plug, only tap in the resistors. Do these wires have to go to anything or just being used for the resistor? So i guess in the plug and plays yall have are these wires connected thru all the wiring cause I see the plug and plays dont have all the wires there.

When looking at the plugs with the clip on top and the wires facing you and counting from the bottom right to the left in plug 22 i am using wires, 1,4,5,6,12,15,16,19,21,22.

Plug 24- 9,12,13,14,15,19,20,21,22,24. So on the plug and plays are these wires in use. Ive tried looking at the pics to figure out and looks like most of them but hard to tell on some camera angles. Thanks

 

well i found your problem, the cam - needs to be connected as well as the crank +, without them the ecu doesnt know when to fire the spark plugs.

on the pnp harness we have the cam-, cam+, crank-, crank+ are all used so you deff need to look into it.

 

ok, well that will be the first thing I work on tomorrow. So both ur crank and cam - input and outputs are used in ur plug and plays?

 

ill double check my harness to be sure but yeah i think the fic is going to itercept the cam and crank signals and send them back out.

 

ok, whats the total number of wires in each plugs in ur pnp?

 

22 wires are used in total

11 on the 22 pin connector
11 on the 24 pin connector

thats not including the aug gauge wire and logger switch (not a must but good to have)

 

on the 22 pin connector and looking at the connector with the wires facing you

pin 22 = Mag style Cam 1 sensor positive output color= Yellow labeled as=CAM1 MAGO +

location = goes to ecu

pin 21= Mag style Crank sensor positive output color = Green labeled as = CRK MAGO +

location = goes to ecu

pin 19 = Mag style crank sensor positive input color = Green labeled as = CRK MAGI +

location = goes to ecu wireing harness

pin 16 = Ignition power color = Red labeled as = IGN PWR

location = do i really need to say it...lol

pin 15 = Power GND color = Black labeled as = PWR GND

location = i think you get the picture

pin 12 = Fuel injector 2 input color = Dk Blue labeled as = INJ 2 IN

location = goes to ecu

pin 8 = Mag style Crank sensor negative input color = Green labeled as = CRK MAGI -

location = taps into ecu harness

pin 6 = TPS input color = White labeled as = TPS +

location = taps into ecu harness

pin 5 = Signal GND color = Black labeled as = SIG GND

location = taps into ecu harness

pin 4 = Power GND color = Black labeled as = PWR GND

location = taps into ecu harness

pin 1 = Fuel injector 1 input color = Dk Blue labeled as = INJ 1 IN

location = goes to ecu

thats it for the 22 pin connector...get back to ya tommarow with the 24 pin stuff