Tikbhoy's Supercharger Adventure!
#101
yeah I did that but it has the groove on the shield and I have to lift the header above the nut on the intake side that stick up, I had to dremel a slit and lift it up and yank it out. i'm assumign you didn't put your heatshield on, it doesn't exactly yank off like the stock
#102
Originally Posted by Motorsport_TC
yeah I did that but it has the groove on the shield and I have to lift the header above the nut on the intake side that stick up, I had to dremel a slit and lift it up and yank it out. i'm assumign you didn't put your heatshield on, it doesn't exactly yank off like the stock
#103
Just to clarify, we're talkign about the supercharger heatshield right? cause when I took the screws off, the supercharger itself got in my way and the nut you take off on the intake side ontop of the heathshield a thread sticks up, I had to get it above that so I could pull it off. I serisouly took off all teh bolts and just tried to yank the heatshield off but it was a no go unless there's a certain angle I could yanked it underneath the supercharger
#104
Originally Posted by Motorsport_TC
Just to clarify, we're talkign about the supercharger heatshield right? cause when I took the screws off, the supercharger itself got in my way and the nut you take off on the intake side ontop of the heathshield a thread sticks up, I had to get it above that so I could pull it off. I serisouly took off all teh bolts and just tried to yank the heatshield off but it was a no go unless there's a certain angle I could yanked it underneath the supercharger
#105
ohh the thread stud that sticks up comes out?? LOL I wish I knew that earlier. and yeah all I did was cut a slit and move the metal up so it went around the stud. then wiggled the crap out of it until it came out. but I rather just remove the stud haha.
#106
Originally Posted by Motorsport_TC
ohh the thread stud that sticks up comes out?? LOL I wish I knew that earlier. and yeah all I did was cut a slit and move the metal up so it went around the stud. then wiggled the crap out of it until it came out. but I rather just remove the stud haha.
#109
Originally Posted by JT_Scion
you'll have the before/after dyno for this ofcourse right? heheh
but I will dyno this again sometime around february to march with the following
Megan header & spipe and KN box filter w/ modified charcoal filter ( done ) w/ stock exhaust
Im not in a rush to dyno it because with all the NA dyno's posted on header combo i kinda get an estimate.
#110
Just in reference on progress of header install
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98344
Im going to write a writeup on a DIY header after s/c
i wont call it a pleasant experience
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98344
Im going to write a writeup on a DIY header after s/c
i wont call it a pleasant experience
#111
This is just a quicknote on what things to remove.
- TRD modified heatshield has SHARP EDGES. Be careful
- Its best to take off the radiator to have more room to take off the heat shield and unbolt the header.
- You have to take off one of the TRD idler pulley using an allen and a wrench on the other side to gain access to the top bolt of the alternator.
- there is 2 bolts holding the alternator and you dont have to pull off all the cables just enough for it to come out.
- for the alternator to come out, it can only move down not up because the SC bracket is blocking and to move down you will have to remove the lower radiator L valve. by doing this you can have more room wrenching the header bolt and properly torqing it back to spec.
- take off the radiator reservoir tank too to make more room while you tension the belt. you dont have to buy a special tool, you use a metric socket to tension it. the tensioner is directly on top of the tension pulley.
- WD-40 in massive amounts is recommended to lube up the AFR sensor, a 7/8 standard with a longest arm is helpfull too. you can use the same wrench when you want to take off the o2 sensor on the s-pipe.
- you can get an antifouler from autozone/kragen/pepboys. brand is "help" I still have to double check the size since i got 4 different packaging
- when you put all the belts back and re install the TRD idler pulley. check for clearance while its running. refer to last pages in your trd install.
Il take pictures later to show the carnage.
the process is doable but i wouldnt suggest it to anybody who expects it to be done quickly.
- TRD modified heatshield has SHARP EDGES. Be careful
- Its best to take off the radiator to have more room to take off the heat shield and unbolt the header.
- You have to take off one of the TRD idler pulley using an allen and a wrench on the other side to gain access to the top bolt of the alternator.
- there is 2 bolts holding the alternator and you dont have to pull off all the cables just enough for it to come out.
- for the alternator to come out, it can only move down not up because the SC bracket is blocking and to move down you will have to remove the lower radiator L valve. by doing this you can have more room wrenching the header bolt and properly torqing it back to spec.
- take off the radiator reservoir tank too to make more room while you tension the belt. you dont have to buy a special tool, you use a metric socket to tension it. the tensioner is directly on top of the tension pulley.
- WD-40 in massive amounts is recommended to lube up the AFR sensor, a 7/8 standard with a longest arm is helpfull too. you can use the same wrench when you want to take off the o2 sensor on the s-pipe.
- you can get an antifouler from autozone/kragen/pepboys. brand is "help" I still have to double check the size since i got 4 different packaging
- when you put all the belts back and re install the TRD idler pulley. check for clearance while its running. refer to last pages in your trd install.
Il take pictures later to show the carnage.
the process is doable but i wouldnt suggest it to anybody who expects it to be done quickly.
#112
Hmm after 600ish $$$ spent as of right now. Is it worth doing ?
Im tired. I got all the parts including the thermotec graphite exhaust wrap, aluminum straps, high heat ceramic exhaust paint, new AFR sensor.... I think im exhausted.
just got home from work. Il be working on putting everything back together. I should have results posted here early sunday or later to monday.
Happy boosting everyone. Drive safe and Buckle up.
Im tired. I got all the parts including the thermotec graphite exhaust wrap, aluminum straps, high heat ceramic exhaust paint, new AFR sensor.... I think im exhausted.
just got home from work. Il be working on putting everything back together. I should have results posted here early sunday or later to monday.
Happy boosting everyone. Drive safe and Buckle up.
#118
Originally Posted by terra_tC
^^ so hows it sound, lol
Originally Posted by shuttlegooscock
which GFB valve is taht???
Originally Posted by DTRUONG_112
sound clip?
http://www.gofastbits.com/index.php?...&option=sounds
its the GFB stealth but its almost the same things except 100% atmospheric and adjustable on top, similar body and piston.
since tc supercharger are centrifugal you can only hear it enough at higher rpms. but i would measure the height of stealth first since anymore larger than the hybrid would hit the banjo bolts on the firewall. im back to stock since im going to modify it, but i wil be using it as plumb back only.
its hard to explain but il quote the gfb tech ive been talking to in regards to any atmospheric bov opening while cruising. something vacuum this blah blah supercharger blahblah it wont act same as turbos blah blah
#119
How the heck did you do that BOV?? I thought it was bad since its atmospheric and it needs to be diverted?? Fill me in please thats a major plus for me! I would love to have that whoosh sound!!
#120
Senior Member
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Andersen AFB, Guam
Posts: 5,277
wow I am totally interested. i imagine it wont have the sound as the WRX on the site. But dang it would be nice.
Do you have the idle problems and all that the other guy
that tried a BOV had?
tikbhoy if this works well and sounds good and has no adverse effects on the Sc, then you are the man.
Do you have the idle problems and all that the other guy
that tried a BOV had?
tikbhoy if this works well and sounds good and has no adverse effects on the Sc, then you are the man.