TRD S/C Questions (S/C owners, PLEASE help me out)
06-17-2006, 05:03 AM
#41
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you'll know if you're running rich when you backfire constantly, that's usually a good sign. But a s/c is around 3k i think. and to give it 60-85 more whp you're gonna drop another 4-5k so the turbo would be a much better and cheaper way to acheive this. Especially the zpi stage 0 turbo which is dirt cheap and from what i hear, pretty good
06-17-2006, 05:20 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by BuddhasTC
you'll know if you're running rich when you backfire constantly, that's usually a good sign. But a s/c is around 3k i think. and to give it 60-85 more whp you're gonna drop another 4-5k so the turbo would be a much better and cheaper way to acheive this. Especially the zpi stage 0 turbo which is dirt cheap and from what i hear, pretty good
06-17-2006, 05:24 AM
#43
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$267 for a sensor???
$157 through Partznet, a site sponser on SL.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...05&catalogid=1
$157 through Partznet, a site sponser on SL.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...05&catalogid=1
As for weight reducing tips, talk to Raamaudio. he r weight reductioning god.
the lightweight wheels and lightened flywheel take care of your rotational mass. Go for the fidanza flywheel, it's lighter than clutchmasters by almost 2lbs :p
beyond those two, I'm as much a newb as you are in terms of weight reduction.
06-17-2006, 07:37 AM
#44
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OK yes you still need the flash tool for the auto.
Yes you can void your warranty if you add a part. I know the Magnuson/Moss warranty act and I stand by it 100%. But it states that if a company states in their warranty something will directly effect and/or void the warranty it's valid no matter what the situation.
The whole problem with the header thing is that 1) you can't remove a working cat from a car so you'll have to fight that battle before you get to your real issue 2) almost everyone with a header also has a pulley so the warranty is toast and TRD won't look at the S/C to prove or disprove it caused the damage. They are covered when it comes to loop holds. It's plainly stated that if you mod anything in the S/C kit that the warranty is just gone.
I asked TRD every possible question I could about every part for a S/C and all they said was cool is the Drop in filter and the catback/axle back exhaust. Anything else could and will effect the warranty.
If none of this makes sence it's because its's 3:45am and I'm tired.
Yes you can void your warranty if you add a part. I know the Magnuson/Moss warranty act and I stand by it 100%. But it states that if a company states in their warranty something will directly effect and/or void the warranty it's valid no matter what the situation.
The whole problem with the header thing is that 1) you can't remove a working cat from a car so you'll have to fight that battle before you get to your real issue 2) almost everyone with a header also has a pulley so the warranty is toast and TRD won't look at the S/C to prove or disprove it caused the damage. They are covered when it comes to loop holds. It's plainly stated that if you mod anything in the S/C kit that the warranty is just gone.
I asked TRD every possible question I could about every part for a S/C and all they said was cool is the Drop in filter and the catback/axle back exhaust. Anything else could and will effect the warranty.
If none of this makes sence it's because its's 3:45am and I'm tired.
06-17-2006, 07:40 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by josh_trdsparks
OK yes you still need the flash tool for the auto.
Yes you can void your warranty if you add a part. I know the Magnuson/Moss warranty act and I stand by it 100%. But it states that if a company states in their warranty something will directly effect and/or void the warranty it's valid no matter what the situation.
The whole problem with the header thing is that 1) you can't remove a working cat from a car so you'll have to fight that battle before you get to your real issue 2) almost everyone with a header also has a pulley so the warranty is toast and TRD won't look at the S/C to prove or disprove it caused the damage. They are covered when it comes to loop holds. It's plainly stated that if you mod anything in the S/C kit that the warranty is just gone.
I asked TRD every possible question I could about every part for a S/C and all they said was cool is the Drop in filter and the catback/axle back exhaust. Anything else could and will effect the warranty.
If none of this makes sence it's because its's 3:45am and I'm tired.
Yes you can void your warranty if you add a part. I know the Magnuson/Moss warranty act and I stand by it 100%. But it states that if a company states in their warranty something will directly effect and/or void the warranty it's valid no matter what the situation.
The whole problem with the header thing is that 1) you can't remove a working cat from a car so you'll have to fight that battle before you get to your real issue 2) almost everyone with a header also has a pulley so the warranty is toast and TRD won't look at the S/C to prove or disprove it caused the damage. They are covered when it comes to loop holds. It's plainly stated that if you mod anything in the S/C kit that the warranty is just gone.
I asked TRD every possible question I could about every part for a S/C and all they said was cool is the Drop in filter and the catback/axle back exhaust. Anything else could and will effect the warranty.
If none of this makes sence it's because its's 3:45am and I'm tired.
06-17-2006, 11:28 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by josh_trdsparks
Expensive compared to what?
06-18-2006, 01:09 AM
#48
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If you're looking for power without breakin the warranty (225+), 17in wheels should be your maximum size. 17x8 with as light a wheel as you can get.
With 19s you won't get all of the potential power out of your car since they're that much harder to spin and you'll handle like complete ___ :p
With 19s you won't get all of the potential power out of your car since they're that much harder to spin and you'll handle like complete ___ :p
06-18-2006, 06:08 AM
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mattvs is right about the wheels. You are adding more unsprung weight to the car with bigger wheels. But it will look good. lol If you're looking for more of a show car than a go car get the 19's.
06-18-2006, 07:02 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by josh_trdsparks
mattvs is right about the wheels. You are adding more unsprung weight to the car with bigger wheels. But it will look good. lol If you're looking for more of a show car than a go car get the 19's.
06-18-2006, 03:29 PM
#52
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Dude, I am sorry, and dont mean to sound like a *****, but all of the questions you have asked have been talked about many times.
Josh is completely correct. If you are looking to get above 250hp, you should just go turbo. It will take the following things from a S/C to get 250+ hp:
Intake: 100-250
FULL exhaust: 500+
Header: 250+
Engine Management: $500+ with harness and all
Bigger Injectors: $400-600
Air-Water, or equivalent cooling ~$1500 (correct me if im wrong)
at least a 12lb pulley, if not smaller: ~140
Thats at Least 3390 extra put into it. And I didnt even include a Clutch that you would DEFINATELY need to get.
So you would be spending a total of over 6000 to do it.
If you want to go S/C and you want to stay warrantied, you may want to get happy with 200hp.
If you want to go S/C and void your warranty, you may want to be happy with less than 250hp.
If you want more than 250hp and void your warranty, go turbo.
Its just the truth...
Josh is completely correct. If you are looking to get above 250hp, you should just go turbo. It will take the following things from a S/C to get 250+ hp:
Intake: 100-250
FULL exhaust: 500+
Header: 250+
Engine Management: $500+ with harness and all
Bigger Injectors: $400-600
Air-Water, or equivalent cooling ~$1500 (correct me if im wrong)
at least a 12lb pulley, if not smaller: ~140
Thats at Least 3390 extra put into it. And I didnt even include a Clutch that you would DEFINATELY need to get.
So you would be spending a total of over 6000 to do it.
If you want to go S/C and you want to stay warrantied, you may want to get happy with 200hp.
If you want to go S/C and void your warranty, you may want to be happy with less than 250hp.
If you want more than 250hp and void your warranty, go turbo.
Its just the truth...
06-18-2006, 06:49 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by HighlanderMac
Dude, I am sorry, and dont mean to sound like a *****, but all of the questions you have asked have been talked about many times.
Josh is completely correct. If you are looking to get above 250hp, you should just go turbo. It will take the following things from a S/C to get 250+ hp:
Intake: 100-250
FULL exhaust: 500+
Header: 250+
Engine Management: $500+ with harness and all
Bigger Injectors: $400-600
Air-Water, or equivalent cooling ~$1500 (correct me if im wrong)
at least a 12lb pulley, if not smaller: ~140
Thats at Least 3390 extra put into it. And I didnt even include a Clutch that you would DEFINATELY need to get.
So you would be spending a total of over 6000 to do it.
If you want to go S/C and you want to stay warrantied, you may want to get happy with 200hp.
If you want to go S/C and void your warranty, you may want to be happy with less than 250hp.
If you want more than 250hp and void your warranty, go turbo.
Its just the truth...
Josh is completely correct. If you are looking to get above 250hp, you should just go turbo. It will take the following things from a S/C to get 250+ hp:
Intake: 100-250
FULL exhaust: 500+
Header: 250+
Engine Management: $500+ with harness and all
Bigger Injectors: $400-600
Air-Water, or equivalent cooling ~$1500 (correct me if im wrong)
at least a 12lb pulley, if not smaller: ~140
Thats at Least 3390 extra put into it. And I didnt even include a Clutch that you would DEFINATELY need to get.
So you would be spending a total of over 6000 to do it.
If you want to go S/C and you want to stay warrantied, you may want to get happy with 200hp.
If you want to go S/C and void your warranty, you may want to be happy with less than 250hp.
If you want more than 250hp and void your warranty, go turbo.
Its just the truth...
06-18-2006, 07:03 PM
#55
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To run a 12psi pulley you would have to get a piggyback unit, bigger injectors, and some form of intercooler. If you bought just a 9.5psi pulley you would reach your goal, however you would have no warranty. By the way if installed at a dealer the warranty is the remainder of your 5 year 60k mile powertrain warranty.
06-18-2006, 07:06 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by 06scionsc
To run a 12psi pulley you would have to get a piggyback unit, bigger injectors, and some form of intercooler. If you bought just a 9.5psi pulley you would reach your goal, however you would have no warranty. By the way if installed at a dealer the warranty is the remainder of your 5 year 60k mile powertrain warranty.
06-18-2006, 07:11 PM
#57
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I dynoed 227hp 197ftlbs with intake, 3" custom mandrel exhaust and a 9lb pulley.
So you will be looking at that, but also, I was an unlucky one that lost a S/C unit, and had to drop another 3600 getting a new one installed.
BTW, I think I am gonna save this because Josh said he can't argue with something I said.. lol...
Josh, I think you and I see eye to eye more than you think, I just think everything happened during a bad time for the both of us. I hereby call a truce....
So you will be looking at that, but also, I was an unlucky one that lost a S/C unit, and had to drop another 3600 getting a new one installed.
BTW, I think I am gonna save this because Josh said he can't argue with something I said.. lol...
Josh, I think you and I see eye to eye more than you think, I just think everything happened during a bad time for the both of us. I hereby call a truce....
06-18-2006, 07:12 PM
#58
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Going off of garage1217's dyno sheet I would say you should be pretty close to what he got, which was 231.24 hp and 199.16 ft/lb at the wheels. Check out www.nonstoptuning.com there are pictures of his setup and of the dynosheets as well as information about his car. You can also check out his site at www.garage1217.com
06-18-2006, 07:26 PM
#60
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Cat back is going to be a waist. You need to get header back best to do 2.5". That will yeild you more power. Plus make an intake too... The Unichip will help, but you better make sure you have a UniChip tuner near you...