borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

ok by all those recommendations, it sounds like im going aem fic. i tihnk im gonna get it tuned by ptuning. what are people's thoughts on ptuning's tuning ability?

07tctul

did u ever hear of versicous motorsports?
Andy is a real nice guy, and knows what he is doing.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

no i have never heard of them..where are they located?

Mr_Meaty

Well, I've heard like 1 bad thing with their install, but I've heard quite a few good things about them and I think it's a good choice, but I don't have any personal experience with them.

edit: I was talking about ptuning.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

oh alright well thanks for the help guys. i just need to sell my wheels and buy sum engine management and get tuned

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

wow drove to school again today and it happened..again. i sat on the side of the road for like 10 min and it started right back up and ran fine. what the hell is wrong? also when i was n/a i would get over 300 miles on a full tank. now with a turbo i get 180? i almost just wanna go back to n/a

Mr_Meaty

if yoru only getting 180 on a tank your dumping way to much fuel. I get about 260-280 on a tank now.
You need to get some management and get tuned.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

yeah im gonna go back to stock tomarrow and just wait till i get enough money to get all my guages and engine management

Soulquarian

I ran the ZPI Stage 0 with stock injectors and no engine management for months with no problem...

I have a stage 1.5 with all the goodies now, but I never really had any problems with that kit.

Ptuning_tuner

Borderguy,

We get this question all the time about the ZPI Stage 0 zero kit.
But, before I answer this question, let me first start by saying let's
keep this as technical post rather than product bashing - no need for that.


With that said:

The stage 0 kit should probably have never been made. There are many reasons for this.
To get a non-factory turbocharged car to run properly you must obviously provide it with the
extra fuel it needs while in boost. The stage 0 kit does this by using a smaller diameter
intake tube to house the factory MAF sensor probe. It "tricks" the MAF sensor into thinking that
the airflow numbers are higher than they really are. A smaller cross-sectional area increases
the velocity of air that the MAF sensors sees. It therefore thinks that it is receiving
higher flow numbers than it really is. Remember, the factory MAF sensor probe can only measure the air
that passes through it. It is the ECU that knows that size of the factory air intake tube opening
and from there determines the actual quantity or mass (along with factory temp correction) of the
air entering the engine.

The first problem with this is that from the time you start the car, to idle, all through the non-boost range,
The car will run the artificially induced fuel offset caused by the smaller diameter intake tube. Essentially,
your car will run rich all the time. This will lead to lower than normal fuel economy during non-boosted conditions,
more frequently fouled spark plugs, but most importantly, poorer throttle response during low engine loads
(i.e. non-boost conditions).

Now for the real kicker, the answer to the actual problem you posted. The smaller than normal intake tube will work
fine when if you are able to run really low boost numbers (somewhere around 4-5 psi). The problem is, as we all know,
the air density is much higher when the weather is cold. What happens to every turbocharged car when the weather gets
colder is that the car will overboost - some more than others. What is happening with your car is that because the
intake tube is smaller than normal, the MAF sensor voltage gets offset to a higher number. By the time your car reaches
say about 6 psi or so, the MAF sensor readings will be about 4.8 volts or more. What the ECU does when it sees this is that
it thinks that the MAF sensor is going nuts. This is because in factory NA mode, the MAF sensor will probably never
exceed about 4.2 to 4.3 volts. Even if the MAF sensor voltage reading got up to around 4.6 volts or so it will still let
that slide. What is happening with your stage 0 kit is that the MAF sensor is pretty much maxing out. The factory ECU wants
to play it safe and dumps fuel, lots of fuel, probably as a safety measure. What you end up with feels like a fuel cut,
but is actuality is more like a fuel dump. You can verify this with a wideband meter.

To fix this, you will need a piggyback to clamp the voltage input from the MAF sensor and tune from there. But IMO, you
are better off finding a stage 1 intake tube with a larger (conventially sized) intake tube. Tuning will go easier, and you
will probably get better spool-up and better overall power gains too.

So, this kit may semi-work in a nice hot state, but will never make for a year-round driver for the rest of us. Stage 0? too good to be true. I'll let you all decide.

Hope this explanation helps.

Btw, yes we tune the e-manage, EMU, and F/IC among many other tuning devices.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

wow ptuning nice post! well you will def be hearing from me in the future...just give me some time to get sum engine management...also do i need to get upgraded injectors with this because for now im just gonna keep the 6 psi and no intercooler?

Ptuning_tuner

I would recommend you get a set of larger injectors too. 440cc, 550cc, or even our 625cc drop-in injectors will work fine. Our 625cc injectors have a very nice spray pattern and idle very well. They will also allow your system to grow, should you decide to eventually go with a front mount IC, 3" exhaust, and more boost, etc.

fusionscion

better fix that problem asap... unless u want her to blow