java09

My install in not incorrect. when you turn the key into the on position the fuel pump comes on. so im sure that has something to do with it.

for the last time.. this is not my first turbo install and my vac lines are correct my vac block is tapped into my brake booster line.

to my vac block i have my wastegate, bov and boost gauge.

my vac lines are good to go.

jaxtcracer

even if the fuel pump comes on, i still don't see how there would be enough pressure to cause the boom. that's the only thing that doesn't fit into our residual fuel hypothesis. how does the residual fuel, in fact, get ignited?

java09

ohhhhhhhhhhhh snap i forgot to mention something.. when i get the boom. my AEM Tru Boost gauge can tell me my peak boost by holding down the right button for two seconds, when it booms i press the button even before starting the car and it reads 11.3-12.9.. as if its reading boost as in having to do with the vac lines them self.

theories?

GO.

java09

Ace, when you have the boom please check your peak boost by holding down the right button for two seconds and tell me what psi it read. thank you and jax if your boost gauge can tell you peak boost please do the same and tell me what yours reads after the boom.


ace jax,

could it be the order of our vac lines on the vac block???

mine from left to right (passenger to driver) are as follows:

wastegate, boost gauge, bov.

theories?

Kydog

It is not getting ignited at all. You never mentioned that it happens with the key in the ACC position.

Java is right, the entire fuel system primes when you turn the key. It must be something loose in your fuel system. Is your fuel rail all the way down? Did you make sure all the large o-rings are placed on the head of the injector. Also do you have all four small o-rings in place on the top of the injectors. Did you install an aftermarket fuel pump or change any soft lines in your system. It sounds like when priming a line is popping off but you would know as fuel would pour out.

Easy way to check for the large o-rings is to grab the injector by hand and see if any of them move (up and down) at all. If they move a little left to right thats fine.

java09

the we go were on the right track and yes kydog its only when we turn our keys to ACC position then it booms.

it may be the fact that our fuel rails arent fully tightened down. mine i know for a fact have rings at the ends of the injectors and the large rings to hold them in place (all stock placed onto the 550cc's). maybe it has to do with not completely being tighted down or maybe it came loose.

java09

kydog, did you catch this post i made?

thoughts? thanks!

Kydog

Java you just mentioned your vac line when you just argued that they are all perfect.

I took a peak at some of your threads and noticed a few of you are running a line to the top of the wg. Do you guys have manual boost controllers?

Also I cant see how you extending the vac lines of the right side of the block. I didnt have to extend ANY of my oem booster lines. If you are using a 1-1 union on that hose are you positive the union is not restrictive? Might there be a pill in the line? I would try to install it my way without having to extend the booster line.

java09

no i have the aem tru boost. not manual and what i meant by my lines being prefect is that todd said this is how to do it! so prefect as in do what im told kind of thing!

my lines isnt restrictive.. i have fuel lines on there and have no pinches on them. same lines phil is using. i replaced it to make things easier.. my vac block is set up liek this:

right side of vac block passenger side runs to the little nipple coming out of the fire wall infront of the drive.

then the left side runs from the vac block to the right end (driver side) of the brake booster line with no pinches in it.

could it be that my vac line attaching to the nipple isnt fully on tight seeing as i had difficulty reaching inthere to tighten it down?

Kydog

Im more concerned about how you guys extended the oem booster line that attaches to the booster itself. You didnt answer, do you have unions in that large line?

Yes, if you have any cut or opening at all in that line it will cause trouble. The brake booster does not want to see ANY incoming air. I believe there is a check valve on the booster to make sure no air comes in and only goes out. If I were you it wouldnt hurt to re-do the entire vac block setup. Look closely at all lines for any slices/cuts and make sure all the ends are fully on whatever nipple they belong to and a worm gear is placed over that. Also try and stay away from unions. If you dont have a problem with cutting your hardline try and follow my block install.

GL

jaxtcracer

see in times like these, i wish i had installed the kit myself, because i don't get half the things you guys are saying haha

brandon, no my gauge does not read peak boost.

as for the vacuum lines, i will have to take a look and trace them all to their source. and what do you mean by extended the OEM booster line? damn i sound like a noob. poopsicles.

java09

haha he meant the line that attaches to the right side of the brake booster line that in turn goes to the left side of the vac block.

and i dont have any cuts in my lines.. i already checked for that. and my lines are heavy duty fuel lines vice regular vac lines as suggested to me by a knoweldgable mechanic. i feel the issue stands with a very slight vac leak.. where it is.. i dont know seeing as my boost gauge is reading my vac ay 20-21 consistantly at idle...

im going to go with kydogs adivce and re do my whole vac set up and see what happens with that.. but if my brake boost line wasnt fully sealed and i am sure id throw a CEL and i currently have no CEL's what soever.

jaxtcracer

if it ends up being a vac leak, i definitely have one with that hole in my IC piping haha.. i dunno though.. if it was a condition like a vac leak that is there every time you turn the key, why is the boom only on certain turns? and also, i dunno if you've noticed brandon, but my boom NEVER happens if the car's been turned off for a short period of time; it only happens if the car's been off for a while (probably an hour or more).

java09

^^ complete agreement which also made me think it wasnt a vac leak..

a vac leak will be consistant and give you trouble 100 times out of 100 times..

the boom is random and yes mostly happens when you leave you car off for a long time.. never when you have been driving, turn it off for a bit like going to the mall or something then turning it back on.

jaxtcracer

haha alrightie then. back to square one?

jaxtcracer

btw for some reason i feel as though brandon and i have some crazy ___ TT alliance going

java09

you knwo this!!! hawaii and jax have joined together.

with our power combined:



CAPITAN PLANET!!!!

Kydog

That does NOT sound right to me. The line from the booster (driver side of the car) should NOT go the left (passenger side of car) on the vac block. Than you hook the right side of the vac block to the left side booster line?

java09

for me this is my vac line set up:

right side of vac block passenger side runs to the little nipple coming out of the fire wall infront of the drive.

then the left side runs from the vac block to the right end (driver side) of the brake booster line with no pinches in it.

jaxtcracer

Brandon, didn't you mean:



Todd