cmv138

just wanted to ask to see if it's a PITA to convert the tc back to NA. i gave the TC to my sister and now the s/c is crapping out on me so i wanted to know if it's worth fixing the s/c or just taking it out and making it stock. i got the car with the s/c installed so thats why im asking the Q. i was also told that there is a oil leak at the oil pan because the s/c was making too much boost. im running a 9.5psi pulley. i think the mechanic is BSing me on that. he told me i need a new PCV valve which isnt expensive so i might just pick it up just in case.

draxcaliber

total BS man. i ran the supercharger with 9.5 psi for over a year, and i even autocrossed and drag raced it, no problems at all.

seal the leak, either get another oil pan, or seal the leak.

as for taking it back to stock, pretty big PITA. remove supercharger, gotta have the stock air box (depending on which year tc it is). put take out the trd injectors, put in the stock ones, change spark plugs back to stock, and when all is said and done, you need to replace the ECU with a stock, part number matching, non-trd-reflashed ecu.

CSOCSO

iTrader: (1)

fix it. put the stock pulley back

cmv138

my Tc is a 05. he said the oil pan is fine just that the pressure was too high and blew the seal. is there a way to seal it with out taking it off? i dont think the bearings are shot because i never really run it hard. might be the O ring seal that broke. i think i saw a thread that someones s/c had the O ring break on them.

draxcaliber

if the oil pressure is too high, that means that somebody either put in the wrong weight oil, and/or too much oil. don't go back to the stock pulley, it didn't cause that problem. just replace the gasket, problem solved.

vettereddie

Wait, how can a supercharger increase oil pressure at the pan? All the boost is going into the cylinders, which hold 160-220 psi at maximum compression, the oil pan is basically at atmospheric, that's what the PCV valve is for, to vent the non-pressurized portion of the oil system (valve cover, crank case, etc.) if the oil pan were pressurized, that would me no oil flow to the s/c, pistons or anything else. The only thing building oil pressure is the crank driven oil pump and the oil viscosity. The only way to get more pressure to the turbo seal is to run more RPM's or use a thicker oil.

Now, you can blow the seal on a turbo or oil-fed supercharger, is that what he was talking about? This is in the blower housing by the bearings and is different than the oil pan seal. my xB runs almost 100 psi at the filter on cold start, I keep it out of boost until the engine warms up and the oil thins.

Can the ECU be re-flashed to factory, non-TRD maps?

draxcaliber

technically, yes the trd reflashed ecu can be reflashed back to stock, but realistically, it can't be unless you know somebody at the dealership willing to risk their butt to get it flashed back according to garage1217. the easier and simpler solution is to get a junkyard ecu, BUT you have to make sure you get a part number matching ECU for the car.

for whatever reason, toyodiy lists 4 different part numbers for 2005 scion tc ECU's, 4 for automatic, and 4 for 5 speed, if you put your VIN number into the website, it'll narrow it down to 1 part number for you, or if you know how, pop out the ecu in your car and it'll also have the part number on it. but then you have to search ebay or craigslist for an ECU with a matching part number, which isn't too hard, but not every listing has the part number on mentioned.

cburglb34

technically a blown PCV valve could cause pressur ein the oil pan because it will make it so that boos tleaks past the vavle into the crankcase/oilpan, replace the vavle its cheap and have the oil pan gastket replaced its made of form in place silicone gasket....


im sure if ur not too mechanically inclined the dealer wont charge too much to reseal a pan

elcapetan

was going to say this. but it seems to me that you had higher oil pressure or crankcase pressure and it blew the seal. OR the seal was worn out could be as simple as that. replace seal and PCV. If problems persist then you should look into it.

vettereddie

Thanks, I din't think about PCV valve failure as a leak source. The xB doesn't even have an oil pan gasket, the repair manual even only calls out for oil-resistant silicone sealant, other than that it's metal to metal.

cburglb34

tc s dont have a oilpan gasket either its calle dform in place gasket


go to toyota ask for a tube of FIPG sealant they will know what it means, its 20 dollars but its well worth it itll seal ur oilpan,valvecover, timing cover anything that calls for sealant

gwtc

iTrader: (4)

My O ring broke on my SC only after 5K miles on it, I'm rebuilding it now, just wondering if I could use this FIPG you're talking about to reseal it once I put it back together, what do you think? thanks.

vettereddie

No, the o-ring seals around the shaft I believe which is moving. You only want to use the FIPG on non-moving and close mated surfaces. I just use oil resistant silicone gasket maker from the auto store, it's cheaper and the exact same stuff.

cmv138

as of now im just waiting for KIK to reply to my PM with his address so i can send the s/c out to get it rebuilt. after that i'll clean everything up. i had the oil pan resealed already. will put everything back together and see if i still have a leak.

gwtc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info, I'll look into that one.

cburglb34

DONT USE THAT PERMATEX stuff, technically it works as the same principle but i have tested all ther permetex gasket sealers and tested the toyota(i have done lots of oilpans and turbo setups on tcs) the best sealer was the toyota tube ur gonna hate it if u used the other stuff and find u have a leak and have to reseal it..

vettereddie

Hmm.. I've had good luck with it so far, both on my turbo at the feed line and on the oil pan, around the timing cover and water pump, and also on the exhaust housing to downpipe mating surface because on the used kit I didn't have the gasket. For the exhaust I used Ultra Copper though, but no leaks their either. The key is to allow for the 2 hour cure time before exposing it to oil, and also having a clean mating surface (wipe the lower block sidewall, not just the pan, or oil will run down and contaminate the mating surface). Application is also key, you want a continuous 1/8" bead around the surface, if it's thin in one area it may leak, but this is true for any gasket maker. I go all the way around bolt holes, Toyota recommends only doing the inside edge but extra doesn't hurt.

ElevationTC

:facepalm:

Toyota silicone > ALL

SoFloTC

iTrader: (3)

not lying ^.. toyota silicone is probably the best dealer silicone ever.

vettereddie

Wow, why all the hate on Permatex? Can someone point out, when applied properly, when it's actually failed? I've used it on 3 engines so far without issue, and others in the business of engine rebuild have been using it for 30+ years without issue. Can't even find anything on google search, and I'd assume if it sucked the hits would be all over the place. I swear if it's not OEM or PTuning ScionLife just hates it. It's not like I have stock in the company, just never had a problem and don't see the point of paying 3x+ for Toyota. Just FYI though, it's not for use for areas that come in contact with gasoline, i.e. the fuel system, and the water pump sealant, not the ultra black, is needed for the water pump area. it's a double bead (one black, one water) where they overlap on the cover. Toyoa also advises a different sealant for the water pump.