I have a tial wastegate that has ports on it to be water cooled. I was curious if anybody has done this? And if so where did you tap off of to cool this wastegate?

I've been told that if the wastegate fails due to heat Tial will not replace it unless it was installed with coolant lines as well.

 

Picture of your wastegate?

 

nice, you prolly are one if the first here. I've been curious how well this works.. oh you can tap it on your coolant lines that goes in your throttle body, thats prolly the easiest.. Post some pics when you got it installed

 

Cav, I left mine unused as I didn't feel like I'd be stressing my WG at all to even require the water cooling.

Would be a very cool setup to get it all plumbed up, but I wasn't personally interested in spending the time to tap into the coolant. Are you planning on running bigger boost in the future?

 

Haha i just looked this up on tial's site - thats crazy - yeah the easiest way to plumb it would be to just use the lines that typically feed the tb - ive had my tb coolant disconnected ever since i built the motor so it shouldnt be an issue.

 

I would suggest using those lines when they are designed for it.. it may not work as well when its designed to run cooler possibly faster wear.

 

i think that guy with the alpha kit from delaware has one. at least thats what the pics look like.

 

plz post pics when you have it done

 

Well the wastegate is installed right now, and it operates just fine without being plumbed for water. But like ACE83 stated it was obviously designed to be cooled, so doing so is only going to help in the longevity of the part.

One-Nut McGee: I plan on getting it tuned for 12psi for my high boost setting right now. I don't want to go over that without swapping out some internals.

 

It's this lil fella right here, mine is black though.


http://www.tialsport.com/prod_wg_mvr.htm

 

if it comes with fittings and hose that would be very easy to do, splice tap and clamp and youre done

 

Here's a quote from TiAL from another forum:

"water cooling is for road racing, where the top sits too close to the turbine housing/manifold, if you are doing a lot of drafting behind cars while racing or you don't have any airflow around the turbo setup

running the water cooling is not required

it's not needed for normal daily driving or drag racing.


and yes, we patented this water cooling method "



So it looks like it will operate just fine as the older version did without being watercooled. I just think it is a pretty cool feature and I'll probably plumb everything up one day when I have nothing to do. lol

Thanks for everyone's input on where to tap for coolant.

 

It did come with fittings, but only 2 banjo style ones. One i'm using for air (vacuum), the other is obviously to water cool it. Hose and clamp's i'll have to provide myself which is no biggie.

Only part I'm not sure of is if I need to run a return coolant line from the wastegate? If so I'll need to pick up another fitting because as I stated mine only came with two, when looking at there site it looks like it should have came with 4... 2 water and 2 air

 

silvtc300 (Dave from DE) is using the MV-R with water ports.

 

Ur joking right?


The two supplied fittings are for air. Theres a top port and bottom port in which they supply fititngs for. Running a electronic boost controller setup would use these.

You need two new fittings that will run in and out of the wastegate to cool it.. Or you basically just filling it with water and letting it boil......

 

I cant wait for some results on his build!

Sorry for thead jack!

 

Cav,

The two banjos are for the air. Like Elevation mentioned above the extra one is for use with an EBC and the little plugs that came in the TiAL box should be used to block the remainder of the holes on the bottom level. So basically you should have 1 Banjo on the bottom of the black top, then plug the remaining air holes (leave the water holes open) then the other fitting goes into the higher port.

I don't know if I'm explaining this well...I'll go take a picture of how mine is plumbed and that might make it easier to understand.

 

A picture would be great, but I understand what you're saying.

But the thing is if your not running an ebc you do not neet to use 2 fittings for air. Only one on the side of the wastegate.


Elevation: Nope not joking at all, I asked a simple question since it seems theres not alot of info on here about watercooling there wastegates. I assumed I would have to run a return line, I'm not retarded, but I wanted to check to make sure I order enough fittings.

 

Here's a picture showing the banjos (only focus on the two on the left). The top one is the one leading to the turbo compressor housing, the bottom left one is going to the electronic boost controller. (The one on the right is actually a plug...I had an extra banjo in my toolbox, but no extra plugs)




Here's a side shot to show the layout a little bit more. If you look directly to the right of the Banjo's rubber nipple/plug you'll see an open hole; that's one of the water cooling inlets that I didn't hook up.




Hope that helps show what I was trying to explain.

 

Always better to ask questions than stumble through and make a mistake. Always ask questions, ignore the snide remarks.

To get your EBC to help give you higher boost levels you DO need to use the extra fittings. The way an Electronic boost controller works (not actually sure about manual boost controllers) is that it forces air into the top of the WG keeping the piston closed when it should be opened mechanically by the true pressure running out of the manifold.

To get that air back into the WG you need that extra banjo on the top of the WG (in my first picture it's the bottom left banjo) and you need to plug the other hole (the banjo with the nipple on it) so that the forced in air doesn't just leak out.

If you just run the one banjo/hose to the compressor housing you're just going to be able to run it off the spring pressure of the WG. You won't be able to adjust it...at least if you're using a boost controller similar to mine (GReddy Profec II Spec B, or whatever it's called)